C63 AMG (W204) 2008 - 2015
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Old 04-11-2010, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by superlubricity
Inline.
Thanks for the comments. I learn so much from you guys.

I love the sound so much, that even with the slight loss of power, I would still keep the mod. I just don't want to run too rich.

Just to show how little the tech knows, I asked him what he thought of the A/F diving down around 12...he said, "I'd get a reflash, and definitely don't drive it too hard between now and then, you'll detonate your motor".

Ummmm, I don't think that will be a problem...what a genius.

Anyway, I guess if I want to add power in the future, LT's and an ECU update would be the best way. But I'm in love with the sound and low-end pull right now.

Off topic, this dude at our gates drives a 350Z...he saw me yesterday and said he saw me the other day on the road...he actually sized up my ride and said, "V8...it'd be pretty close". I said, "Listen, man, I had a 350Z, and you can put all the turbos you want on that, it won't EVER be close". He got all pissed and said, "I'll smoke this piece of ****!"....WHAT??? Are you kidding me.

Anyway, I just gave him an earfull of XX as I drove away.
Old 04-11-2010, 08:12 PM
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Wait, so you weren't the one operating the car while it was on the dyno? It sounds like the operator of the car and/or dyno sold you short of what you went in for. I would operate the car myself, in 4th and 5th, and make sure the dyno operator has everything connected and the readings were accurate. Otherwise, you just got jipped on a dyno session. Run it in 4th if you want an accurate comparison to stock, since stock had a speed limiter. If you want max whp the car can put out, run it in 5th, since you're tuned. And like superlube mentioned, wait a few (5 to 10) minutes in between your dyno runs, especially after the 3rd or 4th run, to let your car cool down, avoid heatsoak, and you'll get better numbers.

You would need a reflash if you add higher-flowing aftermarket manifolds and delete the primary cats. Otherwise, it may not present a problem since superlube's AFRs are fine with manifolds and stock primaries.

Your X-pipe is likely not responsible for the AFRs being "screwed." It's likely operator error, imo.
Old 04-11-2010, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by miami1lt
...just can't believe the pipes screw with the a/f that much!!!
They don't and really can't.

I don't believe you actually have a problem. Based on what you've posted, you've got one run without A/F recorded properly, one run that it a little lean in the middle and one run that is a little rich in the middle and conditions were much worse than your previous dyno runs. There certainly is not enough data to come up with a conclusion, other than you have an incompetent dyno operator.

Even the dyno runfles are screwed up sequentially. You should have a file on their computer and all the runs should be in order.
Old 04-11-2010, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by avengerboater
Wait, so you weren't the one operating the car while it was on the dyno? It sounds like the operator of the car and/or dyno sold you short of what you went in for. I would operate the car myself, in 4th and 5th, and make sure the dyno operator has everything connected and the readings were accurate. Otherwise, you just got jipped on a dyno session. Run it in 4th if you want an accurate comparison to stock, since stock had a speed limiter. If you want max whp the car can put out, run it in 5th, since you're tuned. And like superlube mentioned, wait a few (5 to 10) minutes in between your dyno runs, especially after the 3rd or 4th run, to let your car cool down, avoid heatsoak, and you'll get better numbers.

You would need a reflash if you add higher-flowing aftermarket manifolds and delete the primary cats. Otherwise, it may not present a problem since superlube's AFRs are fine with manifolds and stock primaries.

Your X-pipe is likely not responsible for the AFRs being "screwed." It's likely operator error, imo.
Nope, I asked if I could operate the car and was told no! as for the taking a break thing, some dude with an EVO X was on there just minutes before me, and he did back-to-back runs with that (can't imagine how bad the turbo hated that). I even said after when he pulled my car up, just make sure you don't do back-to-back runs like that.

So, when he screwed up the first run so bad, he was pretty embarrased (I'm sure), and just fixed the problem and went at it again...I wasn't even standing there for the 2nd run, as I had gone into the office to talk to the owner, thinking he would wait a few minutes...when I heard it rolling again, I ran out...then, he got out and said he'd give it a 10 minute break.

The 3rd run (only decent run) was about 5whp/5wtq behind my ECU tuned 4th gear run...had we waited another 10 min and done a 5th gear run, who knows.

This is they way things are done here in HI...people don't have a clue what they are doing (it is the late 60's here after all), but you really dont have options.

I take my car to another garage for work, but all they have is a dyno pak.

Perhaps if I can find another place on island, I'll go do some more runs. I dread taking it back to the same place (they want me back in a month because they are getting an 80load dyno, whatever that is). I don't trust them though at all!
Old 04-11-2010, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by superlubricity
That 3rd pull looks like it was starting to pick up. There is a chance that with a couple more runs would have had you back over 400. These cars are finicky the first couple/few runs.
Agree with most of your total post - just one thing to add here: the phenomenon you mention only presents an issue if the prior session(s) was/were handled differently. If every time he goes, they run 3 pulls and give him the results - it may not be ideal, but at least it's consistent. i.e. if the K1 session was only run 3 times, it might've produced better than 408rwhp with 5 or 6 pulls.

To contrast (and totally hypothetical), if he ran stock once (one pull) for a baseline, then later ran 3 times K1, then later ran pull after pull after pull with K1 + XX until a peak was achieved... then posted the best run of each "stage" - it wouldn't really be a fair scenario. Which is what you later (correctly) point out in your own chosen methodology.
Old 04-11-2010, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by c32AMG-DTM
Agree with most of your total post - just one thing to add here: the phenomenon you mention only presents an issue if the prior session(s) was/were handled differently. If every time he goes, they run 3 pulls and give him the results - it may not be ideal, but at least it's consistent. i.e. if the K1 session was only run 3 times, it might've produced better than 408rwhp with 5 or 6 pulls.

To contrast (and totally hypothetical), if he ran stock once (one pull) for a baseline, then later ran 3 times K1, then later ran pull after pull after pull with K1 + XX until a peak was achieved... then posted the best run of each "stage" - it wouldn't really be a fair scenario. Which is what you later (correctly) point out in your own chosen methodology.
Yup.
Old 04-11-2010, 09:45 PM
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Sorry to hear you got a "screwy" dyno experience. (I'm going to sound like a commercial here LOL), but I can assure you that the car infact is making more power and torque. I have tested our product over and over again to assure this. I have also gotten independent dynos from customers that support this as well, so I would not be worried. There are a few things to consider when dynoing the C63. Air intake temps play a HUGE part of the car making power. If the air temp sensor is reading over 75-80F (you can monitor with a datalogging device), it will start to pull timing and mess with fueling too. Airflow volume as well takes it's toll, if you have true high velocity fans SPECIFICALLY made for the dyno, this will help maintain the results, however most shops "think" they can get away with Home Depot fans or carpet snail fans, are sadly mistaken...Did you also dyno the car in "dyno mode"?? The other thing, is that in order to get "true" results on the dyno, EVERYTHING needs to be controlled, what I'm saying is that a 3 run baseline should be done, then the mods be done, then monitoring the air temps etc., try to get the car strapped back on with approx. the same conditions that same day, same gears used (4th or 5th, but same gears on each pull no matter what), also same rpm start point. ALL of these things will alter/sku the results, so consistency and proper test procedures are paramount. You also need to give the air temp sensor time to cool down (car shut down, and fans cooling down), and the room to "clear out" all the carbon filled air. The real test for you is the fact that you can now smoke the tires at a higher rate of speed (which requires more HP/TQ). Everyone who has the "X" can support you in the fact that you are not dreaming of power, you do actually have more, it's just sad that you guys don't have a good shop to help on the dyno results...You do NOT need a different tune to run our X pipes, so no need to spend money there.
Old 04-12-2010, 03:46 AM
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Thanks, appreciate the comments, Brian...I agree the dyno wasn't ideal at all...i'm more than upset with this latest bout...

Got it out on the road again today, and had quite a few good runs...Vbox verified 0-60 times of 4.2, 4.4, 4.5 and 4.7....all MUCH better than previous times. The car is really making the most of the new exhaust in that range for sure!

Also had a chance to run a 2010 Camaro SS and a 2008 GTO 6.2...first stock, latter had beefed up supercharger and exhaust...needless to say, neither race was very close. The camaro was a straight up smoking from a roll (where he hit it and I actually pulled out around him and throttled him), and the GTO from a 60 roll and a dig...again, straight up throcking...dude wouldn't even roll down the window after the second beating at the next light to say good race...I feel bad now for giving him a thumbs up.

I'm going to try and find another dyno. I need to get some good and consistent numbers now (not to compare to stock or K1)...i guess I was just expecting what I did from stock to K1, which were runs that clearly showed a strong gain...I really expected to see 2-3whp at least pop up, but I know the dyno was a scam...and yes, the air sensor was reading 88F in the shop. I was sweating standing there it was so hot...with 2 decent size shop fans blowing. you figure i gained nearly 20whp/20tq just from the 10 minute cool down...another cool down and 5th gear pull, i bet i'd have been at about 405whp.

The 5th gear sudden richening still baffles me, but I guess if it was really hot and not getting enough air, the ECU may have been putting too much fuel into the chambers.
Old 04-12-2010, 12:11 PM
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What you really need is a good dyno "operator." You could have an awesome dyno, and the guy running it doesn't have a clue, so it's worthless..
Old 04-12-2010, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian GT PRO
...Did you also dyno the car in "dyno mode"??
interesting thing about this...i didn't put it in dyno mode in any of the 3 sessions...however, on the first two, when the guy pulled the car down and i got in, it said "ESP and ABS inoperative"...and then went off after i drove above like 15-20 mph...this time it said nothing. i watched him to make sure he took ESP off and had it in M mode. But i was a bit curious why the warning wasn't on this time...

they don't know how to put it into dyno mode, and i couldn't get internet on my iphone to look it up there this time...but i wonder what was different this time that the warning didn't display?
Old 04-12-2010, 02:46 PM
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There really isn't any difference in dyno mode and M-mode with ESP turned off. If you go on the rollers with ESP off and drive the car in manual, the "ABS and ESP off" caution warning will show up just like they would in Dyno Mode.
Old 04-12-2010, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by avengerboater
There really isn't any difference in dyno mode and M-mode with ESP turned off. If you go on the rollers with ESP off and drive the car in manual, the "ABS and ESP off" caution warning will show up just like they would in Dyno Mode.
Right, that's what I thought...then wonder why it happened like that the first 2 times, but not this time...was shocked to get back into the car without that warning this time.

I made sure after the first 2 runs that the ESP was truely off...he said it was off the first 2 times, but I think it was in sport mode...that could have killed some HP too.

Oh well, lesson learned. I'd recommend this upgrade to anybody wanting some great sound and power (and fuel economy). I was reading 18.5 mpg driving in 4th gear at 30mph this morning for over 5 miles...that was some of the best MPGs I've seen at below highway speeds.
Old 04-20-2010, 03:01 AM
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After some motivation by Superlubes "Cold Start Tribute", I decided to post a nice windows-down roll with the GT Pro DoubleX...also added a Vbox 55-122mph run...fun watching the dial turn.

First Video: Starting at about 15mph and punching 1st gear...listen for the subtle pop into 2nd...it really sounds/revs much more freely. And if you keep clicking the 9 second mark and just listening to it over and over again, it really is amazing. This car (C63 in general) is such a beautiful piece of work...brings a tear to the eye!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5MbKJqvJ98

Second Video: Hit it at 53mph and ran to 122mph...60-100 came in 5.1s (.2s better than stock, but .35s off my best time yet). It is like watching the old Knight Rider "Super Pursuit Mode"....well, maybe not, but close!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U6R956Nw-54

Enjoy,
Brad

Last edited by miami1lt; 04-20-2010 at 03:20 AM.
Old 04-20-2010, 01:00 PM
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Love the vids!
Old 04-20-2010, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by superlubricity
Love the vids!
Thanks, man...wish I had the editing equipment you have. You do some GREAT work!
Old 04-20-2010, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by miami1lt
Thanks, man...wish I had the editing equipment you have. You do some GREAT work!
Have you tried Microsoft movie maker? it is very simple (even I can use it LOL) http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/d...viemaker2.mspx
Old 04-20-2010, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by miami1lt
Thanks, man...wish I had the editing equipment you have. You do some GREAT work!
Thanks.

No fancy equipment though; just some free software (ARCSOFT MEDIA IMPRESSION) that came with my Kodak PlaySport HD Camera.
Old 04-20-2010, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian GT PRO
Have you tried Microsoft movie maker? it is very simple (even I can use it LOL) http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/d...viemaker2.mspx
No, I'll check it out when I get home...I'd like to do some road run sound clips to Axel-F.

By the way, how do you drive that thing with all the stickers on the window? you have about a 4" gap to see through
Old 04-29-2010, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by superlubricity
. . . on the list after you make the primary deletes for your Single X customers.
Super/GTPro - Any update on the full cat delete?
Old 04-29-2010, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by clktoc63
Super/GTPro - Any update on the full cat delete?
working on something very nice at the moment, please be patient
Old 04-30-2010, 08:37 AM
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Thanks for the update...sounds promising
Old 04-30-2010, 02:12 PM
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Old 05-04-2010, 09:31 PM
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Hey Miami, any new vids ??
Old 05-05-2010, 08:53 PM
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Coming soon to a theater near you!

Maybe I can get my 5-yr old to video tape me, cause my wife doesn't want to be caught dead filming me taking off.

It is VERY hard finding a place to do that here...there are very few roads in HI that aren't loaded with homes...and the ones that don't have homes, you dont' want to drive the C63 down (either bad areas or bumpy roads).

I'll hook you up soon, though!
Old 05-13-2010, 04:00 AM
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Ok, a quick tribute to Double X. I promise to do some street vids (external) soon. I'm working hard to find a spot where I can do it without the Hawai'i 50 rolling up on me. My goal is to do a launch from 0-60, then circle around and flash the VBox verified time. We'll see if I can do that.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFUAreriLI4

My favorite part is my kid sticking his head out the window at the climax.

Last edited by miami1lt; 05-13-2010 at 04:03 AM.


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