khmergod

I'm not going to track it or anything. I just want it to handle a little better and fill the well gap a little more. I'm leaning towards HR springs or coilovers, but on tirerack, it says .75" F/R for springs, and 1.2" F/ 1.0" min. for coilovers. Is that ok for our cars? I don't want to scrape.
P.S. I don't mind the ride a little soft, I actually don't like the stock suspension...unless it was the tires all along. And most importantly, I don't want to scrape. Can't stress that enough.

JeffDL

no matter what you do the car will ride firm-er than stock.

DuaneC63

Ii's all about cost and your intended purpose for the car. H&R for street with occational track time. KW3 more track time, KW Clubsports lots of track time. The more track oriented the suspension the more compromises you'll make for street use. Start dropping it really low and camber blots are the least of your expenses. Price a set of rear dog bones.

DuaneC63

Play it safe and just do the springs.

Roswell

Dropping the car will give you negative camber... that's why you need an alignment after. As for the camber bolts, the lower you will drop, the more chances you will need longer camber bolts.

In my opinion, it doesn't hurt to have a little bit of negative camber... it helps on the handling, and if you worry about tire wear... this car is not for you... hehehe!

Since you're looking at getting a front lip, just do H&R springs & save your money for the front lip. Trust me, if you get coilovers, you will be tempted to go lower & lower... looks good but be ready to scrape. Can't have the best of both world= look vs practicality.

DuaneC63

All cars have a slight amount of negative camber from the factory. (ie the top inner edge of the tire sits closer to the center line of the suspension than the bottom edge). As the suspension compresses the wheels arch upward and inward creating more negative camber. This is a good thing as it allows the full width of the outside tires to come into contact with the road as the car turns and all the weight is transfered to the outside tires. Therefore lowing the car create more negative camber as the wheels are always arched upwards. This additional negative camber is present even when driving in a straight line (75% of street driving) causing the inner edge of the tires to wear prematurely compared to the rest of the tire. In the old days, most cars had fully adjustable camber, toe, caster etc. However most newer cars have limited or sometimes no ability to make adjustments. Hence camber bolts (front only I believe for a MBZ) are available to make alignment corrections to a certain point. Too low and you have to start resorting to much more expensive means for correction.

khmergod

I don't care for tire wear, I just thought maybe my ride quality wasn't as good because of them. Thanks for responses everyone. HR springs it is.
P.S. How long after install should I align?

Roswell

1-2 weeks for the spring to settle.

khmergod

Can I let it sit in the garage, or have to drive alot during those two weeks?

Roswell

The more you drive it, the faster the springs will settled... :P

khmergod

Grumble, lol. I'll try to put in 200 miles in two weeks, just driving on Sundays.

khmergod

I might be selling my CF vents and aprons. I think the vents will be too busy with ARKYM CF LIP. I'm thinking of selling both pairs for $450+shipping. Since I paid around $550 or so, can't remember exactly. But first things first is gonna be HR springs, yeah baby. It'll make my stock stance even meaner!

Mort

Won't be a stock stance anymore!

DuaneC63

Ditto.