mthis

There u go even better

AMGFTW

Yes and that is it minus KNs.

No intake, 180f thermostat, lightweight parts etc

Merc63

Those are 26.5lbs each. These hooisers are 20lbs each.. Prob be better to go with the lighter and thinner Hoosiers?

Merc63

What's flashing the converter exactly?

Merc63

K do with flashing the converter, you simply mash down the throttle from idle. This will allow the engine to spin up to the converters stall speed then take off. Stall rpm is usually a bit higher then your brake stall (if you were to hold the brake and bring the rpm up).

Flash stalling allows you to hit the power band better.

I don't think mashing the throttle completely would be the best. Maybe hammer it half way then lay into...?

mthis

Oh yes 100% better
Drop the pressure in does tires and u 60foots should be in the low 1.7's

AMGFTW

"Flashing" in simple terms means to get on the car from idle allowing the car to "flash" directly to the stall converters rpm. Our cars have a very low stall rpm so it is easy to overshoot it and the car will in turn bog.

I rev the car to 1800rpm while on the brake. On the last yellow I drop the brake and immediately get on the throttle.

If done correctly the car will hook and go with no bog.

Merc63

Wouldn't that be brake stalling the converter? You're not really flashing it as its already locked up..?

dodger63

I've used mikeys always and never had any bog issues tune only header & tune, zero issue the bigger diameter will hurt 60' slightly but not much at your level, mthis and I used to go back to back all the time with his shorter tire and my longer tire and we would always be neck and neck, I really think at this point u guys are over thinking this. There is no reason why you can't get high 1.7*s with either tire you need more practise

Merc63

Isn't that called brake stalling?? And exactly what the OP was doing himself.

From what I've read, flashing is hammering it from idle or very close to idle so the revs jump then the converter locks up and transfers the power to the drive train.

dodger63

I think there's a few slang names for the same action

Merc63

Sorry two posts, on iPhone... Can't delete.

Merc63

What exact tire and size are you using?

Rob CL

That would be the answer. And the longer you hold the stall up, the greater the chance the ECU pulls timing from the engine. Forget your reaction times for TnT nights and just wait for the green, hold the brake and gas. The moment that needle touches the launch rpm its all gas and no brake.

dodger63

I've used tried almost every size possibke

Merc63

So secretive what's the best from your trials?

dodger63

Yes I'm kinda not just going to throw all my trials out there for everyone, what size wheel do u want to run ill tell you my opinion in which wheel set up has worked best for me,

Dads C63

Hoosier DOT drag radial. 275-40-17 (17330). Tire only weighs 22# and is 25.7" tall. Best all around drag tire anyone will use. Like Mike, the car has been in the 10's countless runs on these with about 20# of air.

Merc63

Sweet thanks guys. Happy racing.

BerBer63

What's the best 18" street radial for the track? MT ET II Streets or Nitto 555r?

EBZ0666

I'll keep practicing with them and see if I can get it going. I'm hoping you guys are right and I just need to find the sweet spot, but I would also think it should do better than 1.9 off idle let alone 1500rpm.

Even Money

Hoosiers for sure, especially in 17 gives you more sidewall to flex and absorb some of the launch shock vice wheelspin. I distinctly recall bogging at launching the car above idle. It's almost as if I left the line without all my hp, then about 30 yards down the lane the car comes alive almost like a shot of nos hit it.