C63 AMG (W204) 2008 - 2015
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Went to the track with drag radials

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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 10:42 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Merc63
The only thing I can find close to 25" diameter is the Hoosier 225/45/17.
There u go even better
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 10:47 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by mthis
You have headers in yours car rite?
Yes and that is it minus KNs.

No intake, 180f thermostat, lightweight parts etc
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 10:52 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by mthis
Those are 26.5lbs each. These hooisers are 20lbs each.. Prob be better to go with the lighter and thinner Hoosiers?
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 10:58 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by AMGFTW
Sounds like you aren't flashing the converter properly which will cause the bog/stall you are describing. 265/40/18 are all I have ever used on my car and I have never had an issue.

What's flashing the converter exactly?
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 11:31 AM
  #30  
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K do with flashing the converter, you simply mash down the throttle from idle. This will allow the engine to spin up to the converters stall speed then take off. Stall rpm is usually a bit higher then your brake stall (if you were to hold the brake and bring the rpm up).

Flash stalling allows you to hit the power band better.

I don't think mashing the throttle completely would be the best. Maybe hammer it half way then lay into...?
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 11:49 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Merc63
Those are 26.5lbs each. These hooisers are 20lbs each.. Prob be better to go with the lighter and thinner Hoosiers?
Oh yes 100% better
Drop the pressure in does tires and u 60foots should be in the low 1.7's
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 01:08 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Merc63
What's flashing the converter exactly?
"Flashing" in simple terms means to get on the car from idle allowing the car to "flash" directly to the stall converters rpm. Our cars have a very low stall rpm so it is easy to overshoot it and the car will in turn bog.

I rev the car to 1800rpm while on the brake. On the last yellow I drop the brake and immediately get on the throttle.

If done correctly the car will hook and go with no bog.

Last edited by AMGFTW; Jan 30, 2012 at 01:14 PM.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 03:08 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by AMGFTW
"Flashing" in simple terms means to get on the car from idle allowing the car to "flash" directly to the stall converters rpm. Our cars have a very low stall rpm so it is easy to overshoot it and the car will in turn bog.

I rev the car to 1800rpm while on the brake. On the last yellow I drop the brake and immediately get on the throttle.

If done correctly the car will hook and go with no bog.
Wouldn't that be brake stalling the converter? You're not really flashing it as its already locked up..?
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 03:10 PM
  #34  
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I've used mikeys always and never had any bog issues tune only header & tune, zero issue the bigger diameter will hurt 60' slightly but not much at your level, mthis and I used to go back to back all the time with his shorter tire and my longer tire and we would always be neck and neck, I really think at this point u guys are over thinking this. There is no reason why you can't get high 1.7*s with either tire you need more practise
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 03:16 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by AMGFTW
"Flashing" in simple terms means to get on the car from idle allowing the car to "flash" directly to the stall converters rpm. Our cars have a very low stall rpm so it is easy to overshoot it and the car will in turn bog.

I rev the car to 1800rpm while on the brake. On the last yellow I drop the brake and immediately get on the throttle.

If done correctly the car will hook and go with no bog.
Isn't that called brake stalling?? And exactly what the OP was doing himself.

From what I've read, flashing is hammering it from idle or very close to idle so the revs jump then the converter locks up and transfers the power to the drive train.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 03:18 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Merc63
Isn't that called brake stalling?? And exactly what the OP was doing himself.

From what I've read, flashing is hammering it from idle or very close to idle so the revs jump then the converter locks up and transfers the power to the drive train.
I think there's a few slang names for the same action
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 03:19 PM
  #37  
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Sorry two posts, on iPhone... Can't delete.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 03:20 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by dodger63
I've used mikeys always and never had any bog issues tune only header & tune, zero issue the bigger diameter will hurt 60' slightly but not much at your level, mthis and I used to go back to back all the time with his shorter tire and my longer tire and we would always be neck and neck, I really think at this point u guys are over thinking this. There is no reason why you can't get high 1.7*s with either tire you need more practise
What exact tire and size are you using?
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 03:29 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by AMGFTW
Sounds like you aren't flashing the converter properly which will cause the bog/stall you are describing. 265/40/18 are all I have ever used on my car and I have never had an issue.
Originally Posted by AMGFTW
"Flashing" in simple terms means to get on the car from idle allowing the car to "flash" directly to the stall converters rpm. Our cars have a very low stall rpm so it is easy to overshoot it and the car will in turn bog.

I rev the car to 1800rpm while on the brake. On the last yellow I drop the brake and immediately get on the throttle.

If done correctly the car will hook and go with no bog.
That would be the answer. And the longer you hold the stall up, the greater the chance the ECU pulls timing from the engine. Forget your reaction times for TnT nights and just wait for the green, hold the brake and gas. The moment that needle touches the launch rpm its all gas and no brake.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 04:41 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Merc63
What exact tire and size are you using?
I've used tried almost every size possibke
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 05:18 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by dodger63
I've used tried almost every size possibke
So secretive what's the best from your trials?
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 05:23 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Merc63
So secretive what's the best from your trials?
Yes I'm kinda not just going to throw all my trials out there for everyone, what size wheel do u want to run ill tell you my opinion in which wheel set up has worked best for me,
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 05:47 PM
  #43  
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Hoosier DOT drag radial. 275-40-17 (17330). Tire only weighs 22# and is 25.7" tall. Best all around drag tire anyone will use. Like Mike, the car has been in the 10's countless runs on these with about 20# of air.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 05:51 PM
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Sweet thanks guys. Happy racing.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 07:59 PM
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What's the best 18" street radial for the track? MT ET II Streets or Nitto 555r?
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 09:24 PM
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I'll keep practicing with them and see if I can get it going. I'm hoping you guys are right and I just need to find the sweet spot, but I would also think it should do better than 1.9 off idle let alone 1500rpm.
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Old Jan 30, 2012 | 09:32 PM
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Hoosiers for sure, especially in 17 gives you more sidewall to flex and absorb some of the launch shock vice wheelspin. I distinctly recall bogging at launching the car above idle. It's almost as if I left the line without all my hp, then about 30 yards down the lane the car comes alive almost like a shot of nos hit it.
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