C63 AMG (W204) 2008 - 2015

M156 head bolt problems

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Old 05-21-2013, 06:25 AM
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Putting stud in, you had to pull the head.
Old 05-21-2013, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Karl901
Putting stud in, you had to pull the head.
Not true. You can switch to studs one at a time with the head on. I did it myself this wither.
Old 05-21-2013, 11:16 AM
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The studding of a engine seems to be a common upgrade for diesel engines that are running higher fuel loads with higher capacity injectors, higher turbo boost and are producing gobs of HP, 700+ while running higher compression ratios than any AMG ever seen. Searching the web under replacing head bolts one at a time there are plenty of different examples from all over the diesel world doing exactly what we are talking about here. Apparently in a diesel the bolts are stretched under these extreme loadings and blow out the headgasket. Now using basic mechanics it would seem that this procedure could also be used in a Benz, if it was not for the Cams being a PITA to keep in time during disassembly I am sure many of the owners would have already jumped onto the band wagon and either changed out the bolts with new OEM style or just studded their engines with the one at a time method my self included. Any comments?
Old 05-21-2013, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Valvestud
Here you go.

Regards,

Joe
So it's safe to say that AMG's from 2011 and up are not affected?
Old 05-21-2013, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Mabuhay
So it's safe to say that AMG's from 2011 and up are not affected?
For the most part, yes, but no; very early 2011 models are in the affected group.
Old 05-21-2013, 06:53 PM
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FF. W212 E63 M156 non-pano 18" P2 ParkT NightV (gone but will be missed).
It looks like April and May of 2010 is a critical window period.
Old 05-21-2013, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by otakki
It looks like April and May of 2010 is a critical window period.
Well the 2011 I found in the affected group showed a delivery date of July 6th 2010, and the door showed a MFG month of 6/2010. The car was roughly 200 below the cutoff, so I'd wager that the change was made in late June, if not early July.
Old 05-22-2013, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Critter
The studding of a engine seems to be a common upgrade for diesel engines that are running higher fuel loads with higher capacity injectors, higher turbo boost and are producing gobs of HP, 700+ while running higher compression ratios than any AMG ever seen. Searching the web under replacing head bolts one at a time there are plenty of different examples from all over the diesel world doing exactly what we are talking about here. Apparently in a diesel the bolts are stretched under these extreme loadings and blow out the headgasket. Now using basic mechanics it would seem that this procedure could also be used in a Benz, if it was not for the Cams being a PITA to keep in time during disassembly I am sure many of the owners would have already jumped onto the band wagon and either changed out the bolts with new OEM style or just studded their engines with the one at a time method my self included. Any comments?
Thanks for more background. It seems that some on this forum have either observed pros do the work or at least the cam timing work. Perhaps no one has done this job idependently. I know Merc has been helpful, but we lack a rudimentary procedure to help those who would attempt this . I do not have access to star downloads. Seems like a lot of relevant information is available there, e.g., normal torqeuing sequence and values (especially later upgraded oem bolt values). With the suspect block thread sealing (me talking) we need factory chit chat on e.g., chasing block threads or silence, sealing block threads, sealing head bolt washer-flanges. If chasing block threads is required with head on, long , small dia extensions are required. I located a source for the metric chasers. I have looked at Baum Tool catalogue and did not see any tooling for indexing the cams or holding them for chain etc. We need the tool(s) Merc talks about specified. If one is a "make" then someone sketch it up etc. It is frustrating to know the knowledge is out there , but not consolidated. Let's stop dancing.

Edit, I wonder if MB stayed with the same vendor who produced the original failing head bolts. If someone will send me some of each I will look into testing them (forensic lab) and publishing the results. We spend a lot of time theorizing , hand wringing and hopeful waiting (me too). How 'bout some action?

Last edited by motoman; 05-22-2013 at 05:01 PM. Reason: "improved" oem headbolts?
Old 05-22-2013, 08:17 PM
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@Motoman, I am inclined to agree with your edit comment, I had brought this up about the difference being a metallurgical cake mix in the bolts supplied by even a single source supplier. Surely the bolts made in 05,06 for a newly designed engine would not be the same as the bolts supplied for a 08, 09 10 or 11 model year. There must be differences in the chemistry even from batch to batch or in your comment from different source suppliers. Surely AMG engineers did not order all the head bolts for all models years the 63 was to be produced at one time. Are there any insiders from AMG that could comment?
Old 05-23-2013, 01:49 AM
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Doubt the issue is metal. Its design. Look at the cross section, not enough meat around the head of the bolt with the female torx head.

Id like to write a howto, but really how many guys are going to use it? Maybe motoman and that's it lol. I dont have the time now, winter yes, now toooooo busy.

People should just drive their cars and quit worrying about the head bolts.. If it blows, it blows, nothing you can do about it.
Old 05-23-2013, 01:53 AM
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http://www.specialtyautotoolrentals....roducts_id=164

Here is one of the tools, you need this to hold the cams for installation back into the head. Without this tool, good luck, they will flop around on you as you tighten the cam buckets.


Below, the tool on the middle right is the one needed to hold ONE of the cam adjusters so the two gears dont move. The other 3 cams, you just use a bolt, a really small one, like 3-4mm and thread it in to hold the gears. Not sure why they didn't make threads on all the cams, but one doesn't have threads, so you need this.


Last edited by Merc63; 05-23-2013 at 01:58 AM.
Old 05-23-2013, 02:55 AM
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2009 C63
One more VIN

Originally Posted by Valvestud
Here you go.

Regards,

Joe
Could you check
WDDGF77X79F224228

Many thanks!
Old 05-23-2013, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by ACEdge
Could you check
WDDGF77X79F224228

Many thanks!
Here you go. Again, All 2009 and earlier, most if not all 2010, and it appears some 2011s as well are affected.

156985 60 035009

Regards,

Joe
Old 05-24-2013, 12:35 AM
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Look at all the fear we are creating lol. RUN FOR THE HILLS!!
Old 05-24-2013, 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Merc63
Look at all the fear we are creating lol. RUN FOR THE HILLS!!
You're to blame...one look at your head bolts and my knees started knocking!
Old 05-24-2013, 02:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Merc63
Look at all the fear we are creating lol. RUN FOR THE HILLS!!
Forewarned if forearmed. At least you won't think it just low on coolant, add some, and keep driving it until it pukes from hydro lock.
Old 05-24-2013, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by bhamg
You're to blame...one look at your head bolts and my knees started knocking!
A little surface rust never hurt anyone lol.
Old 05-24-2013, 11:04 AM
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Stop the madness people lol, its not a big deal. people act as if this was the only car that ever needed a head gasket replaced. Yes it sucks to pay so much for a car and to find out it has a manufacture problem however, people are so gun shy that every little thing that happens they thing its the bolts. Its really a simple fix to get new head bolts put in. I would not even put the new head bolts in but instead put in a set of ARP head studs and be done with it. Consider the cost a maintenance..
Old 05-26-2013, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Merc63
Moto, it's too much to write on here. If you don't have a very very good grasp of mechanics and supply of tools I would leave it to the pros.

The cams have to be removed. You need a special mb tool that holds the cams in place to put them back. Also one cam needs another special tool to hold it with the adjuster, the other cams you can use a bolt that threads into both gears.

Once you remove the cams and put them back in, it's quite simple. It's just getting over that first hurdle.

It took us 2 days to replace all the bolts with studs. No way would I use the new mb bolts.m if your going that far use the studs and do it right.
Merc, If we were closer I would buy a case of beer and bring along a camera and tape recorder. After interviewing you I could show you a diy is not too much to write. Look at the stickys on e.g., brakes and transmission service (in C63 and other threads). Best regards,motoman
Old 07-02-2013, 07:35 AM
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VIN lookup for the head-bolt problem

Originally Posted by Valvestud
Reply with your VIN and I will look it up.

Regards,

Joe

Would you be able to check a VIN please?

WDDGF7HB7BF644595
Old 07-02-2013, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by jdbassman
Would you be able to check a VIN please?

WDDGF7HB7BF644595
Your engine number is 156985 60 066691 and is outside the affected group.

Regards,

Joe
Old 07-02-2013, 09:39 AM
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many thanks for the quick response

Does the manufacturing date of the engine also mean that it does not have the cam lifters problem (based on the class-action issue) or is that independent of the head-bolt issue?
Old 07-02-2013, 12:41 PM
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Does anyone know if the engines made post-60658 include the replacement of the M156 valve buckets with the M159 (SLS) buckets?

The early cam lobes are made of a softer material than the buckets and the cams wear the entire time the engine is tapping. The fix is to replace the M156 valve buckets with the M159 (SLS) buckets. Do the post-2011 engines have this fix?
Old 07-05-2013, 10:41 AM
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Merc, (1) thanks for the pic of the tooling-Japanese origin or just the ad? (2)regarding rust...You can not have it both ways. Earlier you said you did not like the rust on your removed headbolts. Now you say a little rust never hurt. I know you are kidding and are getting closer to writing a procedure . motoman
Old 07-29-2013, 10:02 PM
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first of all thanks joe for check my vin to see if my car is in the effected group..
as of today, my advisor told me that the cylinder head was remove and getting ready to be reinstalling back.


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