A/C Compressor destroyed
A/C Compressor destroyed
Hi guys
So I just had my A/C compressor replaced for the 2nd time and I was wondering what made it break down the way it did. The tech told me that the compressor literally fall apart...
There is a year warranty with the new compressor but still...
He told me it's a common problem with the 63 engines (M156)... Is there something that I'm doing wrong? Maybe it's because I downshift a lot at high rpms?
Any help would be appreciated... Thanks!
So I just had my A/C compressor replaced for the 2nd time and I was wondering what made it break down the way it did. The tech told me that the compressor literally fall apart...
There is a year warranty with the new compressor but still...

He told me it's a common problem with the 63 engines (M156)... Is there something that I'm doing wrong? Maybe it's because I downshift a lot at high rpms?
Any help would be appreciated... Thanks!
Common problem with the M156??? Never heard that one and not sure how a compressor issue could be related to the block it's mounted onto. Perhaps the heat emitted by the M156???
If the AC system is not properly flushed out when the 1st one broke then there will be tiny metal particles in the lines ( basically sanding the inside of the new compressor ). Those metal particals will ruin the compressor. One theory, I say say for certain because the thech might have flushed your system out properly. Ragging on the car left and right will ruin the AC too. When you road race the AC is off not on so thats another way to ruin it too.
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C63 AMG P30 *EuroCharged*| Porsche Cayenne | Buell XB9SX
When you "step on it" the AC system shuts off ( compressor ) as soon as the rpm's drop down the AC compressor clutch kicks back on. When you road race the AC is typically off. When your constantly stomping the gas what I just explianed happens over and over again on/off on/off and so on. The compressor is controlled by many paramiters ( rpm, temp, line pressure high/low line pressure ) so the best thing to do is just turn it off if your going to be "stomping the gas over and over" that way you don't tax the daylighting on the AC compressor. I hope this helps. Maybe someone with more knowledge on this can chime in.
That explains many things. I always downshift at high RPMs... I thought I was helping the brakes (and my wallet) but it looks like I'm gonna need to stop doing that unless I want my car to back to the shop again.
I've read conflicting articles about the effects of engine braking, but personally I think brakes are a lot cheaper to replace than your motor/transmission.
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Joined: Jan 2012
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From: RSF, California
(My car); 2012 vw golf TDI manual. (dads car) 2011 C63 Amg. P31. Carbon trim.LSD.
When you "step on it" the AC system shuts off ( compressor ) as soon as the rpm's drop down the AC compressor clutch kicks back on. When you road race the AC is typically off. When your constantly stomping the gas what I just explianed happens over and over again on/off on/off and so on. The compressor is controlled by many paramiters ( rpm, temp, line pressure high/low line pressure ) so the best thing to do is just turn it off if your going to be "stomping the gas over and over" that way you don't tax the daylighting on the AC compressor. I hope this helps. Maybe someone with more knowledge on this can chime in.


My m156 ac compressor broken the 3rd time this year....
I don't understand this anymore.
I just installed a new ac compressor like 1 month ago and now the front plate fell apart after a hard pull.
No more cold air...
I'm lost for word at this point. Gonna cost me another 1k to replace and install again.
Please tell me there are more of you out there having the same problem so I don't feel along 😭.
I just installed a new ac compressor like 1 month ago and now the front plate fell apart after a hard pull.
No more cold air...
I'm lost for word at this point. Gonna cost me another 1k to replace and install again.
Please tell me there are more of you out there having the same problem so I don't feel along 😭.
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Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 435
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From: New Zealand
W204 C200, BMW E30 M3, 1980Gt Mini, Toyota Corona, KTM 200 EXC.
Hi, You have to think about this correctly.
The A/C compressor fails during the process it pumps out particles of metal and alloy in to the a/c hose and front a/c radiator & filter - all parts need replacing.
All a/c hoses need to be cleaned/flushed correctly and inspected internaly.
The A/C expansion valve is worth investigating as to how hard it is to replace and the risk to think over is you don't replace die access.
Make sure new a/c rings and new a/c compressor oil.
All the best.
Dave
The A/C compressor fails during the process it pumps out particles of metal and alloy in to the a/c hose and front a/c radiator & filter - all parts need replacing.
All a/c hoses need to be cleaned/flushed correctly and inspected internaly.
The A/C expansion valve is worth investigating as to how hard it is to replace and the risk to think over is you don't replace die access.
Make sure new a/c rings and new a/c compressor oil.
All the best.
Dave
Last edited by NZ-Merc; Jun 26, 2025 at 03:50 AM.
Ac compressor front plate broken, internals still work
After inspection, I found that my AC compressor is good.
Just the front plate broke.
Any know why this could happen after a hard pull to redline.
I heard that AC compressor can only handle 6000 rpm.
Is that true. Perhaps too much power and the front plant snapped due to safety pins?
Now I'm trying to replace the front plate, the bolt is so tight. Even broke my ratchet when trying to take it off...
Just the front plate broke.
Any know why this could happen after a hard pull to redline.
I heard that AC compressor can only handle 6000 rpm.
Is that true. Perhaps too much power and the front plant snapped due to safety pins?
Now I'm trying to replace the front plate, the bolt is so tight. Even broke my ratchet when trying to take it off...
2006, ac, air, cl55, class, clutch, compressor, conditioner, destroyed, florida, jacksonville, mercedes, replacement, s500, w114, w204
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