C-63AMG

Hey guys,

I recently tuned my car with OE Tuning and in the beginning the results felt rapid. I don't know if it's seemed to slow down lately or not. Today I was running side by side with a 2008 M5. I floored it and he couldn't catch me. I then put my brake on cause speeds were getting high. He pulled alongside and floored it and I let him go.

I then pulled up behind him at the traffic lights and stuck on his rear. He floored it, I floored it. He wasn't pulling away and I was getting closer (ever ever so slightly) but didn't have the chance (traffic to the left and right) to try and overtake him and I wasn't going to be a reckless driver so I just stayed behind him.

There was nothing to indicate his car was anything other than stock and I wasn't pulling on him as much as I thought I would so thought to find out what my 0 - 60 runs were doing.

I downloaded this app called dynolicious or something like that and it's asking me to input drive train loss and a figure between 15 - 25. Does anyone know what I enter into this?

Thanks in advance.

Ezec63

You have the 7G tronic right? not the mct

If so should be around 18% which is average for an automatic with a torque converter

C-63AMG

Thanks Ezec, - It's the 2008 model. Really appreciate that figure. What exactly does the drive train loss mean?

Ezec63

No problem Bud !

Drivetrain loss is the total percantage of power lost from the production at the crank to the output at the wheels. Think about it MB rates the standard c63 at 451 HP an 18% loss would bring you to 365 Wheel HP which is the average people are getting on the dyno. Since that power has to go from the engine to the driveshaft into the transmission through the torque converter and its mechanical gears than thru a LSd if you have one then to the output shafts at each wheel and than rotate a heavy wheel. All friction losses that equate to a horsepower drop. The MCT is a more efficient transmission and the wet clutch doesnt suck as much power as a torque converter

Ezec63

And dont forget other parasitic losses from the pulley systems feeding all the electronics in the car

m3equals333

I think 18% is a good# to use...here's my dyno from baseline/OE tune to use as a reference. Keep in mind it was quite cold out that day.

Using 18% drivetrain loss, this would put it around 515hp at the crank from a stock 457hp at the crank

C-63AMG

Thanks guys,

Here were the conditions under which I tested the dynolicious. Fuel 3/4 full tank. Tires are good on the front. One on the rear is around 25% tread remaining and the other around 50% remaining.

My dynolicious best reading after about 8 runs:

0-10mph = 0.82 seconds
0-20mph = 1.51 seconds
0-30mph = 2.19 seconds
0-40mph = 2.90 seconds
0-50mph = 3.73 seconds
0-60mph = 4.65 seconds

I must say after doing an OE Tune (running 98 fuel) and having an Xpipe in place of the secondary cats, I thought I would be closer to 4.1 / 4.2 seconds and not 4.65. That 4.65 was the best time in 8 runs. I could probably have got better with more runs and lower fuel in the tank - maybe 4.45 seconds.

I noticed I was losing time from the 0-20mph speed as traction was being lost (in sports mode and with sports esp). Perhaps with better tires I could aim around 4.2?

Do these figures and times above sound about right? I thought they would have been stock figures and not after an OE Tune.

Also it calculates my HP. Is that based on rwhp on the 18% loss I gave it? It gave me a max HP if 384.

Thanks in advance.

Faris63

I heard good things about this app but not accurate like VBOX
I have things app in my phone since 2011 and I didn't use it lol I will give try tonight

C-63AMG

LOL - the app cost me $5 and after reading about it, I decided to get it. What was there to lose?

Seems to be quite accurate and some people have taken it on to the track along with doing official times with other gadges and for an 11.55 on the Dynolicious app, it was 11.48 on the professional gadget (not sure the name). So for $5, definitely very worth it.

m3equals333

Sam, I think you should have the shop check your ECU, as unless the app is inaccurate, those are stock #'s I believe

384rwhp * 1.18 = 453hp at the crank (vs stock 451hp at the crank)

Faris63

I just tried and it gave me wrong numbers 0-60mhp 5.0 sec with race start with little spin next time I will use it without race start
But I liked the HP that I got in the app 675HP

C-63AMG

Thanks Derek,

Is there anyway the agency could have removed the flash when I took it in for a service?

Problem is they're like a 300km round journey from me so I don't want to go all that way if it's normal. Out of interest, how can an app that isn't wired up to the car in any way detect the HP i'm running?

C-63AMG

Haha

The first few runs I had were messed up - like 73 hp etc. Once I stuck the app down in place and made sure it didn't move even a mm, I started getting what seemed much more reasonable runs. Make sure it's also held firmly on a flat surface.

m3equals333

Def a possibility. Sometimes they do ECU updates that could potentially wipe out your tune (or so I hear). Maybe call the tuner and ask if there is any way to check the ECU? If that doesn't work, it may be worth it to call the service dept and ask if they did an ECU update...that is, before you make the trip out to the tuner.

Based on the varying data you guys say the app is spitting out, there is also a pretty big possibility the app is just inaccurate and your car is still tuned...

C-63AMG

Before spending my hard earned 5 bucks, I did a little research. Seems it's quite accurate from people's feedback but needs to be placed accurately. I will speak to Jeremy at OE Tuning and then call up the guy here. I don't want to spend money on putting it on a dyno only to find out it's still tuned. Can any OBD determine if it's tuned or not?

Thanks

http://www.m5board.com/vbulletin/e60...nolicious.html

http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showt...php?p=11477009

and last a test between Vbox, a Dyno and the Dynolicious app. Granted, Dynolicious is last but still pretty accurate.

http://www.autoblog.com/2008/08/01/d...x-and-dynojet/

m3equals333

Ok, I see. I was also going to say that your last hp output number is eerily and probably non-coincidentally similar to stock numbers, pointing to a potentially accurate output gauge by the app. Combine that with your feelings about the car not performing at the same level the day of the tune, you may need to have it re-flashed.

Good luck bro.

C-63AMG

I've messaged the guy who came to Dubai to tune the car. Just waiting to hear back from him and arrange a meeting. It's the weekend out here so don't want to disturb him on his day off with a call.

Mort

If you want to covert rwhp to fhp you need to divide by .82 (for 18% drive train loss) and not multiply by 1.18.

384rwhp /.82 = 468fhp.

For example if you take 18 % off the 453hp in your example you get 371rwhp and not 384rwhp as in your example.

m3equals333

you're right Mort, I got it backwards

even so, Sam's numbers are not representative of an OE ECU tune

C-63AMG

OK well I was told to put the car in P and rev it and if the revs reach 4000 (which it did), the tune is still on there. Upon closer examination of one of my rear tires, there's around 10% left and this is what's causing the loss of 0-60 times. As soon as I get my new wheels I'm gonna put a 295 on them and then go out and do some runs.

ced357

I have used the Dynolicious in tandem with my V-Box to verify results and have found the Dynolicious to run about a tenth faster. I was very impressed to see this little app actually be this accurate.

My best stock 0-60 was about 4.4 and tune/CD delete 3.9. Two things to insure with the app for proper results. Calibrate it accordingly, via the instructions and make sure the phone does not move at all during the run. I've had it jolt slightly and throw off the results drastically. Get better tires and practice, you'll drop the time

ced357

Its a really fun app. I use it often, especially with rental cars etc. I tried to get results for a 0-60 in my sisters Prius and could not get enough road to reach 60

C-63AMG

hahaha Thanks Ced.

So two questions for you. First of all, how do I set it up? I typed in my car make and model, I typed in the weight of it, I typed in the 18% drive train loss. Then I press start and wait for it to say go.

How does the app actually calculate my hp? That's one thing I don't understand.

I run 285s at the moment and when they were first on, no tail spin, no loss of traction nothing. No on every run, I get tail spin from 0 so I know the tires are causing loss. I hope it's big loss and not small as with an OE tune, a resonator delete (slightly lighter) and a x pipe in place of the secondary cats, I was hoping I'd be around 4 seconds so that best run of 4.65 is upsetting to say the least.

ced357

To calibrate, go to the setup icon(far right) scroll down to performance calibration and follow the steps. Make sure you have a flat surface to calibrate on i.e.. table or floor. Let me know how it goes.

As for the HP readings, I cannot explain how, or if it works. I range from 380HP to 440 on this thing depending on the run. Seems inaccurate and I just ignore it all together.

Good luck,