jvanbrecht

Yes, another thread.. but I realized the thread name was a tad stupid..

Anyways, I made a slight mistake. I decided to purchase a decent Torque wrench, CDI Torque 2401CI3. I should have done better research. The image included the built in angle gauge, the actual wrench did not, nor did the description. My bad.

Lovely thing about Amazon (one of the reasons I buy from them), easy returns.

With that said, I do like the tool, it is solid and quality, but now I need to find an angle gauge, and so far, all the ones I found are either cheap crappy plastic ones that have crappy reviews, and really expensive digital ones. But at that point, I would just return the one I got, and pickup the same model that does actually include angles for $150 more (versus the $250 to $350 for the stand alone digital gauges).

Or I could go with the Gearwrench one.... It seems most of them are all made by Danaher, so I am guessing quality wise they should all be similar.

But the actual question, is.. Angle gauges....... how/what are you using.

Merc63

http://www.snaponindustrialbrands.co...0CAT2%2076.pdf

This is what I use. I have the normal ratcheting ones as well. But I need to go counter clock wise on another application so I got the above one.

It's great, it does both CW and CCW, NM and ftlbs. You don't have to mess around setting it, it reads as you torque and has a secondary needle to show what your max torque was.

I've never used the ones with the indicator hand .

Ingenieur

I've always used 2 different tools
the torque wrench, torque to spec
then final angle torque with a regular ratchet or bar and this
the snap on tool is just a dial indicating torque wrench?

the OP bought an electronic torque wrench 2401CI3 1/4" 2.0 - 20.0
it's a 1/4" up to 20 lb ft, that seems small for automotive type use?

jvanbrecht

It covers basic engine (valve covers, spark plugs, random other stuff), oil and transmission pan within the accurate range (20% to 100%) of the torque wrenches specs, which are in the 4 to 10Nm range. Additionally, I have 5 bikes, 2 mountain 3 road, 2 of those are CF, need a decent torque wrench for working on those as well.

I will be picking up a dial one for 3/4 25 to 250 ft lb range, I do not think I need anything higher. But like I said, I made the mistake, so I can either keep the one I bought for $250ish.. or I can return that and pickup 2 dial version that cover the low end of the spectrum and the mid range (I can never see myself needing more than 250 ft lb, even my wifes tow hitch install on her Infiniti only required 84 ft lb or torque.)

Either way, guess I need to pickup an angle gauge, would prefer a non cheap plastic one (I do not mean cheap as in cost, rather cheap as in flimsy)

Merc63

250lbs is too much. Go with a 150, more accuracy down low.

Ingenieur

I have a Proto 3/8 I bought 30 years ago goes up to 90 lb ft
and a el cheapo Sears 1/2 that goes up to 175 lb ft

I use the Proto for precision stuff and the Sears for lug nuts, larger suspension stuff, etc.

I don't do internal engine assembly (heads, bearing caps, etc.)

I've had the Proto calibrated 5 or 6 times and it never drifts, always within spec

how it's used is as important as the tool
prep of the fasteners
proper sequence and stages if required
nice smooth perpendicular application
etc.