Sun Coast Creations hood ferdback
02-10-2014, 12:58 AM
#26
Member
if you need additional cooling for your engine , go for phenolic heat spacers.
I got mine from evosport, and I have cold start every morning. I wonder what would happen if I install this hood ?
=D
I got mine from evosport, and I have cold start every morning. I wonder what would happen if I install this hood ?
=D
04-16-2014, 12:16 PM
#28
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Vivid Racing '09 C63 AMG
Important update:
One unintended side-effect of the hood is that water can get into the intake. That was the rough feeling I noticed only sometimes during heavy rain. Upon closer inspection, I could actually see water trails in the intake when I removed the "tube" from the front of the engine compartment. Thankfully, it doesn't look like anything got past the other section that connects to the filter (for those of you who may not know, that could lead to water getting into the engine - since water does not compress, it could force the piston through the cylinder block and destroy the engine).
It didn't occur everytime it rained, just under certain conditions at a lower speed with heavy rain. The throttle felt sluggish and a lot of vibration came through. A quick fix is going to be using small inserts to block the vents that can easily screw in through the mesh. That should deflect the rain enough so that nothing gets into the vents at speed (or stationary) and would only be used in the winter here. According to the MB techs, the BS and 507 vents are positioned further back and actually channel the air differently than this hood does, regardless of visual similarity.
One unintended side-effect of the hood is that water can get into the intake. That was the rough feeling I noticed only sometimes during heavy rain. Upon closer inspection, I could actually see water trails in the intake when I removed the "tube" from the front of the engine compartment. Thankfully, it doesn't look like anything got past the other section that connects to the filter (for those of you who may not know, that could lead to water getting into the engine - since water does not compress, it could force the piston through the cylinder block and destroy the engine).
It didn't occur everytime it rained, just under certain conditions at a lower speed with heavy rain. The throttle felt sluggish and a lot of vibration came through. A quick fix is going to be using small inserts to block the vents that can easily screw in through the mesh. That should deflect the rain enough so that nothing gets into the vents at speed (or stationary) and would only be used in the winter here. According to the MB techs, the BS and 507 vents are positioned further back and actually channel the air differently than this hood does, regardless of visual similarity.
04-16-2014, 12:25 PM
#29
MBWorld Fanatic!
This is one reason why I asked you about the trays in your earlier post.
The OEM 507 hood have the air diversion trays that are actually functional.
Owning a rep vented hood, this was one issue I was always concerned about. Granted nothing happened on my BMW, It was something I was always mindful of.
The OEM 507 hood have the air diversion trays that are actually functional.
Owning a rep vented hood, this was one issue I was always concerned about. Granted nothing happened on my BMW, It was something I was always mindful of.
Important update:
One unintended side-effect of the hood is that water can get into the intake. That was the rough feeling I noticed only sometimes during heavy rain. Upon closer inspection, I could actually see water trails in the intake when I removed the "tube" from the front of the engine compartment. Thankfully, it doesn't look like anything got past the other section that connects to the filter (for those of you who may not know, that could lead to water getting into the engine - since water does not compress, it could force the piston through the cylinder block and destroy the engine).
It didn't occur everytime it rained, just under certain conditions at a lower speed with heavy rain. The throttle felt sluggish and a lot of vibration came through. A quick fix is going to be using small inserts to block the vents that can easily screw in through the mesh. That should deflect the rain enough so that nothing gets into the vents at speed (or stationary) and would only be used in the winter here. According to the MB techs, the BS and 507 vents are positioned further back and actually channel the air differently than this hood does, regardless of visual similarity.
One unintended side-effect of the hood is that water can get into the intake. That was the rough feeling I noticed only sometimes during heavy rain. Upon closer inspection, I could actually see water trails in the intake when I removed the "tube" from the front of the engine compartment. Thankfully, it doesn't look like anything got past the other section that connects to the filter (for those of you who may not know, that could lead to water getting into the engine - since water does not compress, it could force the piston through the cylinder block and destroy the engine).
It didn't occur everytime it rained, just under certain conditions at a lower speed with heavy rain. The throttle felt sluggish and a lot of vibration came through. A quick fix is going to be using small inserts to block the vents that can easily screw in through the mesh. That should deflect the rain enough so that nothing gets into the vents at speed (or stationary) and would only be used in the winter here. According to the MB techs, the BS and 507 vents are positioned further back and actually channel the air differently than this hood does, regardless of visual similarity.
04-16-2014, 12:26 PM
#30
Senior Member
Important update:
One unintended side-effect of the hood is that water can get into the intake. That was the rough feeling I noticed only sometimes during heavy rain. Upon closer inspection, I could actually see water trails in the intake when I removed the "tube" from the front of the engine compartment. Thankfully, it doesn't look like anything got past the other section that connects to the filter (for those of you who may not know, that could lead to water getting into the engine - since water does not compress, it could force the piston through the cylinder block and destroy the engine).
It didn't occur everytime it rained, just under certain conditions at a lower speed with heavy rain. The throttle felt sluggish and a lot of vibration came through. A quick fix is going to be using small inserts to block the vents that can easily screw in through the mesh. That should deflect the rain enough so that nothing gets into the vents at speed (or stationary) and would only be used in the winter here. According to the MB techs, the BS and 507 vents are positioned further back and actually channel the air differently than this hood does, regardless of visual similarity.
One unintended side-effect of the hood is that water can get into the intake. That was the rough feeling I noticed only sometimes during heavy rain. Upon closer inspection, I could actually see water trails in the intake when I removed the "tube" from the front of the engine compartment. Thankfully, it doesn't look like anything got past the other section that connects to the filter (for those of you who may not know, that could lead to water getting into the engine - since water does not compress, it could force the piston through the cylinder block and destroy the engine).
It didn't occur everytime it rained, just under certain conditions at a lower speed with heavy rain. The throttle felt sluggish and a lot of vibration came through. A quick fix is going to be using small inserts to block the vents that can easily screw in through the mesh. That should deflect the rain enough so that nothing gets into the vents at speed (or stationary) and would only be used in the winter here. According to the MB techs, the BS and 507 vents are positioned further back and actually channel the air differently than this hood does, regardless of visual similarity.
04-16-2014, 12:34 PM
#31
Senior Member
This is one reason why I asked you about the trays in your earlier post.
The OEM 507 hood have the air diversion trays that are actually functional.
Owning a rep vented hood, this was one issue I was always concerned about. Granted nothing happened on my BMW, It was something I was always mindful of.
The OEM 507 hood have the air diversion trays that are actually functional.
Owning a rep vented hood, this was one issue I was always concerned about. Granted nothing happened on my BMW, It was something I was always mindful of.
I am thinking now that if you can get the OEM hood for $2300, might as well spend the $1k extra to do it right vs save a few bucks and have peace of mind. Afterall, if you go to these lengths to have it done, it's not like you're spending $500 for getting 80% the same effect as the $2300 one. This still costs $1k for the rep, and may end up a bit more labor for prep work vs just get the stock one paint, and use factory parts. I know some good body shops rather work with original stuff vs reps that don't bolt/line up 100%, and need hard to find parts like the hydraulic mounts mentioned.
I am trying to do this cheap myself, but can't sacrifice opening a can of worms and end up spending more or not being 100% satisfied. Looks like OEM is still the best route, unless someone can show me that route would be more than $2-3k above the replica.
04-16-2014, 01:26 PM
#32
MBWorld Fanatic!
04-16-2014, 01:40 PM
#33
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Vivid Racing '09 C63 AMG
This is one reason why I asked you about the trays in your earlier post.
The OEM 507 hood have the air diversion trays that are actually functional.
Owning a rep vented hood, this was one issue I was always concerned about. Granted nothing happened on my BMW, It was something I was always mindful of.
The OEM 507 hood have the air diversion trays that are actually functional.
Owning a rep vented hood, this was one issue I was always concerned about. Granted nothing happened on my BMW, It was something I was always mindful of.
the good thing though is that it is probably still better than stock both in appearance and function. just not as good as the original of its style.
I am thinking now that if you can get the OEM hood for $2300, might as well spend the $1k extra to do it right vs save a few bucks and have peace of mind. Afterall, if you go to these lengths to have it done, it's not like you're spending $500 for getting 80% the same effect as the $2300 one. This still costs $1k for the rep, and may end up a bit more labor for prep work vs just get the stock one paint, and use factory parts. I know some good body shops rather work with original stuff vs reps that don't bolt/line up 100%, and need hard to find parts like the hydraulic mounts mentioned.
I am trying to do this cheap myself, but can't sacrifice opening a can of worms and end up spending more or not being 100% satisfied. Looks like OEM is still the best route, unless someone can show me that route would be more than $2-3k above the replica.
I am thinking now that if you can get the OEM hood for $2300, might as well spend the $1k extra to do it right vs save a few bucks and have peace of mind. Afterall, if you go to these lengths to have it done, it's not like you're spending $500 for getting 80% the same effect as the $2300 one. This still costs $1k for the rep, and may end up a bit more labor for prep work vs just get the stock one paint, and use factory parts. I know some good body shops rather work with original stuff vs reps that don't bolt/line up 100%, and need hard to find parts like the hydraulic mounts mentioned.
I am trying to do this cheap myself, but can't sacrifice opening a can of worms and end up spending more or not being 100% satisfied. Looks like OEM is still the best route, unless someone can show me that route would be more than $2-3k above the replica.
04-16-2014, 01:58 PM
#34
MBWorld Fanatic!
I can almost guarantee you the OEM 507 hood will bolt up to your Face Lift W204 without any mods. Just Paint and Install.
I was looking at it at my local MB dealer and from what I can see there are no difference in mounting etc. compared to the stock C63 hood/bonnet.
In fact this will fit my pre face lift as well. Just some fabrication around the front head light area and that's it.
Go for it buddy! its a mean look.
I was looking at it at my local MB dealer and from what I can see there are no difference in mounting etc. compared to the stock C63 hood/bonnet.
In fact this will fit my pre face lift as well. Just some fabrication around the front head light area and that's it.
Go for it buddy! its a mean look.
the good thing though is that it is probably still better than stock both in appearance and function. just not as good as the original of its style.
I am thinking now that if you can get the OEM hood for $2300, might as well spend the $1k extra to do it right vs save a few bucks and have peace of mind. Afterall, if you go to these lengths to have it done, it's not like you're spending $500 for getting 80% the same effect as the $2300 one. This still costs $1k for the rep, and may end up a bit more labor for prep work vs just get the stock one paint, and use factory parts. I know some good body shops rather work with original stuff vs reps that don't bolt/line up 100%, and need hard to find parts like the hydraulic mounts mentioned.
I am trying to do this cheap myself, but can't sacrifice opening a can of worms and end up spending more or not being 100% satisfied. Looks like OEM is still the best route, unless someone can show me that route would be more than $2-3k above the replica.
I am thinking now that if you can get the OEM hood for $2300, might as well spend the $1k extra to do it right vs save a few bucks and have peace of mind. Afterall, if you go to these lengths to have it done, it's not like you're spending $500 for getting 80% the same effect as the $2300 one. This still costs $1k for the rep, and may end up a bit more labor for prep work vs just get the stock one paint, and use factory parts. I know some good body shops rather work with original stuff vs reps that don't bolt/line up 100%, and need hard to find parts like the hydraulic mounts mentioned.
I am trying to do this cheap myself, but can't sacrifice opening a can of worms and end up spending more or not being 100% satisfied. Looks like OEM is still the best route, unless someone can show me that route would be more than $2-3k above the replica.
04-16-2014, 02:00 PM
#35
MBWorld Fanatic!
I hear yah buddy, Thanks so much for giving us some feedback. Helps the community with mod decisions 
Im sure you can retrofit a tray of some sort to divert the water.
Im sure you can retrofit a tray of some sort to divert the water. Yeah, they look similar from the outside, but are very different internally, I guess.
It was their knowledge. The two guys whom I have cellphone numbers for are the go-to AMG guys at the dealership, like that's all they work on. Several customers have SLS BS that I've seen and they even talk about getting their own CLK BS.
I got this hood for almost nothing. I mean, it was around $1200 shipped, but it was insurance funds left over from a claim, so I guess I can't complain. And in California, we only get from around November - April...most if it isn't a torrential downpour so I could live with this.
It was their knowledge. The two guys whom I have cellphone numbers for are the go-to AMG guys at the dealership, like that's all they work on. Several customers have SLS BS that I've seen and they even talk about getting their own CLK BS.
I got this hood for almost nothing. I mean, it was around $1200 shipped, but it was insurance funds left over from a claim, so I guess I can't complain. And in California, we only get from around November - April...most if it isn't a torrential downpour so I could live with this.
04-17-2014, 03:14 AM
#36
Member
04-17-2014, 05:39 PM
#38
MBWorld Fanatic!
05-15-2014, 04:47 PM
#39
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Vivid Racing '09 C63 AMG
Another update:
Unforeseen issues with the porous nature of fiberglass require a full strip and repaint of the hood. Apparently, the hood started sucking in pockets of paint and clear coat to the point you could see some spider-webbing in a few spots. He's had to completely strip down the paint, and redo the whole thing off of the car. My car has been in the shop for over 2 weeks due to this issue. I am told that CF also has to get "baked" in the sun, but is not as bad as fiberglass.
Unforeseen issues with the porous nature of fiberglass require a full strip and repaint of the hood. Apparently, the hood started sucking in pockets of paint and clear coat to the point you could see some spider-webbing in a few spots. He's had to completely strip down the paint, and redo the whole thing off of the car. My car has been in the shop for over 2 weeks due to this issue. I am told that CF also has to get "baked" in the sun, but is not as bad as fiberglass.
05-15-2014, 11:53 PM
#40
MBWorld Fanatic!
Sorry to hear about the paint issue.
I have noticed a similar issue with painting carbon fibre in the past. What I understand is that you should not only re/sand and prime the hood for repaint. You have to apply an additional coat of paint. If the paint is thin the weave sometimes shows through.
I have noticed a similar issue with painting carbon fibre in the past. What I understand is that you should not only re/sand and prime the hood for repaint. You have to apply an additional coat of paint. If the paint is thin the weave sometimes shows through.
Another update:
Unforeseen issues with the porous nature of fiberglass require a full strip and repaint of the hood. Apparently, the hood started sucking in pockets of paint and clear coat to the point you could see some spider-webbing in a few spots. He's had to completely strip down the paint, and redo the whole thing off of the car. My car has been in the shop for over 2 weeks due to this issue. I am told that CF also has to get "baked" in the sun, but is not as bad as fiberglass.
Unforeseen issues with the porous nature of fiberglass require a full strip and repaint of the hood. Apparently, the hood started sucking in pockets of paint and clear coat to the point you could see some spider-webbing in a few spots. He's had to completely strip down the paint, and redo the whole thing off of the car. My car has been in the shop for over 2 weeks due to this issue. I am told that CF also has to get "baked" in the sun, but is not as bad as fiberglass.
07-16-2014, 08:59 AM
#41
Member
I've had the hood on my car for about a week. It does make a difference. First, I used to only have one cold start per day, in the morning. Maybe if my car sat the remainder of the day would I have another cold start. Now, if I sit over 5 hours (like between lunch and leaving work) I could have 2 or 3 cold starts.
As I drive, normal temps hovered around 221°F oil and 197°F water. Driving through clean air during the day, the lowest I've seen is 212°F oil and 183°F water. That delta should be more significant if I do a track day since the velocity of the air should clear out the engine bay at a better rate than a stock hood.
According to my body shop guy, this is one of the best fiberglass hoods he's ever seen. Some fine tuning adjustments took about two hours, but the rest of the install was painless. One thing to note is that the hood springs on a stock hood are not removable so you need aftermarket ones.
Attachment 278005
As I drive, normal temps hovered around 221°F oil and 197°F water. Driving through clean air during the day, the lowest I've seen is 212°F oil and 183°F water. That delta should be more significant if I do a track day since the velocity of the air should clear out the engine bay at a better rate than a stock hood.
According to my body shop guy, this is one of the best fiberglass hoods he's ever seen. Some fine tuning adjustments took about two hours, but the rest of the install was painless. One thing to note is that the hood springs on a stock hood are not removable so you need aftermarket ones.
Attachment 278005
I'm thinking of getting it for my 2012 C63.
