Difference between Weistec stage 1 and 2
05-14-2014, 05:38 PM
#26
The laws of physics apply to all
Whether you believe or not
Gravity
Deny it
Jump out of a window
Let me know how it works out for you
Lol
Johnnyblaze blazing too much
Cough cough pass pass
05-14-2014, 05:42 PM
#27
I can make a dyno read whatever I want
The more you pay the more you gain lol
If you gained 25% torque across the power band say 4500 to redline you would be running low 11's
Like 11.2 or so
A ramp dyno is bs
The only true power test
Run engine to powrr peak rpm + a few 100 rpm
Increase load until rpm drops to hp peak rpm
Stabilize for 15 sec
Then record for 15 sec
Anything else is hogwash
The more you pay the more you gain lol
If you gained 25% torque across the power band say 4500 to redline you would be running low 11's
Like 11.2 or so
A ramp dyno is bs
The only true power test
Run engine to powrr peak rpm + a few 100 rpm
Increase load until rpm drops to hp peak rpm
Stabilize for 15 sec
Then record for 15 sec
Anything else is hogwash
Last edited by Ingenieur; 05-14-2014 at 05:44 PM.
05-14-2014, 05:52 PM
#28
On street tires
No weight reduction
Probably closer to 11 flat
On 91 octane
480 whp
Probably faster
Time is linear with torque
25% more torque/thrust should increase your rate of acceleration and decrease the time linearly
You should be running gtr and 911 turbo s traps and close et 's
No weight reduction
Probably closer to 11 flat
On 91 octane
480 whp
Probably faster
Time is linear with torque
25% more torque/thrust should increase your rate of acceleration and decrease the time linearly
You should be running gtr and 911 turbo s traps and close et 's
Last edited by Ingenieur; 05-14-2014 at 05:59 PM.
05-14-2014, 09:00 PM
#30
MBWorld Fanatic!
Johnny what bolt ons and tune are you using?
05-14-2014, 09:30 PM
#31
Member
Thread Starter
I am pretty certain i will be going stage 2 after i have fitted the ARP studs.
Not because i need or can handle more power......but as the saying goes you can never have enough power.
I dare say its my right foot that needs calibrating to improve on the launches
The S/C scene is taking off in the UK now (well 3 M156's to date) so intresting times ahead.
05-14-2014, 10:54 PM
#33
MBWorld Fanatic!
05-15-2014, 12:00 AM
#34
MBWorld Fanatic!
So first i'll address the off topics....
Ya im with ingenieur with the high 400whp bolt on cars, it's b.s. Sure i believe your dyno sheet, but it's just because the dyno isnt accurate. Go get on a mustang dyno thats properly calibrated and you'll be lucky to hit 450whp.
The sls has a carbon fiber torque tube and dual clutch transmission, not to mention a much much much better flowing intake good for about 40hp alone. All of these are responsible for making power and putting it down more efficiently. No your mct is not a dual clutch or even close, nor does it have a carbon fiber torque tube it has a heavy *** driveshaft. Sure throw that intake manifold on your car and you'll lose valuable low end torque thats needed to get a 500lb heavier car moving for daily driving. Will an sls put down 500whp? - probably really close with bolt on's and a tune.
So back on topic.... You guys with your bolt on's and tune's dont understand your car's dont make anywhere near the instant torque of the s.c. cars. I cant comment on the yoko's but i hate yokohama tires. They all pretty much suck. Maybe the r-comps by them are ok? I've never tried them but all the others are terrible. As for the pss, they'll get you decent life but off the line or roll traction under 40mph forget about it. With out a set of dedicated slicks - not drag radials there is a big difference, you will not be getting off the line without spin. The best non slick tiree you can get in my opinion would be a toyo r888. It's a dot legal r-comp (road race tire) it will only last about 3k miles but will hook way better than any tire i've used. Terrible in the rain and have to get some heat in them to start working but overall amazing.
I cant speak for the difference in stage 1 to 2 but you should think about doing the valve body upgrade at minimum for the transmission. Is the power usable with stage 2 (i can speak for)? well if you arent hooking below 40 already more power isnt going to help any. Usually from 60mph+ it hooks and is plenty usable (unless it's like 30-40* out)
Ya im with ingenieur with the high 400whp bolt on cars, it's b.s. Sure i believe your dyno sheet, but it's just because the dyno isnt accurate. Go get on a mustang dyno thats properly calibrated and you'll be lucky to hit 450whp.
The sls has a carbon fiber torque tube and dual clutch transmission, not to mention a much much much better flowing intake good for about 40hp alone. All of these are responsible for making power and putting it down more efficiently. No your mct is not a dual clutch or even close, nor does it have a carbon fiber torque tube it has a heavy *** driveshaft. Sure throw that intake manifold on your car and you'll lose valuable low end torque thats needed to get a 500lb heavier car moving for daily driving. Will an sls put down 500whp? - probably really close with bolt on's and a tune.
So back on topic.... You guys with your bolt on's and tune's dont understand your car's dont make anywhere near the instant torque of the s.c. cars. I cant comment on the yoko's but i hate yokohama tires. They all pretty much suck. Maybe the r-comps by them are ok? I've never tried them but all the others are terrible. As for the pss, they'll get you decent life but off the line or roll traction under 40mph forget about it. With out a set of dedicated slicks - not drag radials there is a big difference, you will not be getting off the line without spin. The best non slick tiree you can get in my opinion would be a toyo r888. It's a dot legal r-comp (road race tire) it will only last about 3k miles but will hook way better than any tire i've used. Terrible in the rain and have to get some heat in them to start working but overall amazing.
I cant speak for the difference in stage 1 to 2 but you should think about doing the valve body upgrade at minimum for the transmission. Is the power usable with stage 2 (i can speak for)? well if you arent hooking below 40 already more power isnt going to help any. Usually from 60mph+ it hooks and is plenty usable (unless it's like 30-40* out)
05-15-2014, 12:37 AM
#35
Member
Thread Starter
So first i'll address the off topics....
Ya im with ingenieur with the high 400whp bolt on cars, it's b.s. Sure i believe your dyno sheet, but it's just because the dyno isnt accurate. Go get on a mustang dyno thats properly calibrated and you'll be lucky to hit 450whp.
The sls has a carbon fiber torque tube and dual clutch transmission, not to mention a much much much better flowing intake good for about 40hp alone. All of these are responsible for making power and putting it down more efficiently. No your mct is not a dual clutch or even close, nor does it have a carbon fiber torque tube it has a heavy *** driveshaft. Sure throw that intake manifold on your car and you'll lose valuable low end torque thats needed to get a 500lb heavier car moving for daily driving. Will an sls put down 500whp? - probably really close with bolt on's and a tune.
So back on topic.... You guys with your bolt on's and tune's dont understand your car's dont make anywhere near the instant torque of the s.c. cars. I cant comment on the yoko's but i hate yokohama tires. They all pretty much suck. Maybe the r-comps by them are ok? I've never tried them but all the others are terrible. As for the pss, they'll get you decent life but off the line or roll traction under 40mph forget about it. With out a set of dedicated slicks - not drag radials there is a big difference, you will not be getting off the line without spin. The best non slick tiree you can get in my opinion would be a toyo r888. It's a dot legal r-comp (road race tire) it will only last about 3k miles but will hook way better than any tire i've used. Terrible in the rain and have to get some heat in them to start working but overall amazing.
I cant speak for the difference in stage 1 to 2 but you should think about doing the valve body upgrade at minimum for the transmission. Is the power usable with stage 2 (i can speak for)? well if you arent hooking below 40 already more power isnt going to help any. Usually from 60mph+ it hooks and is plenty usable (unless it's like 30-40* out)
Ya im with ingenieur with the high 400whp bolt on cars, it's b.s. Sure i believe your dyno sheet, but it's just because the dyno isnt accurate. Go get on a mustang dyno thats properly calibrated and you'll be lucky to hit 450whp.
The sls has a carbon fiber torque tube and dual clutch transmission, not to mention a much much much better flowing intake good for about 40hp alone. All of these are responsible for making power and putting it down more efficiently. No your mct is not a dual clutch or even close, nor does it have a carbon fiber torque tube it has a heavy *** driveshaft. Sure throw that intake manifold on your car and you'll lose valuable low end torque thats needed to get a 500lb heavier car moving for daily driving. Will an sls put down 500whp? - probably really close with bolt on's and a tune.
So back on topic.... You guys with your bolt on's and tune's dont understand your car's dont make anywhere near the instant torque of the s.c. cars. I cant comment on the yoko's but i hate yokohama tires. They all pretty much suck. Maybe the r-comps by them are ok? I've never tried them but all the others are terrible. As for the pss, they'll get you decent life but off the line or roll traction under 40mph forget about it. With out a set of dedicated slicks - not drag radials there is a big difference, you will not be getting off the line without spin. The best non slick tiree you can get in my opinion would be a toyo r888. It's a dot legal r-comp (road race tire) it will only last about 3k miles but will hook way better than any tire i've used. Terrible in the rain and have to get some heat in them to start working but overall amazing.
I cant speak for the difference in stage 1 to 2 but you should think about doing the valve body upgrade at minimum for the transmission. Is the power usable with stage 2 (i can speak for)? well if you arent hooking below 40 already more power isnt going to help any. Usually from 60mph+ it hooks and is plenty usable (unless it's like 30-40* out)
I want to get the valve body upgrade done but its just the down time that's the killer. i.e. removing and sending to Weistec to upgrade and then return....the same goes for a built transmission...i cringe to think what the shipment cost would be.
As you say the Torque and power with the S/C is in a different league from the "bolt on mods" anyone who i have took out for a quick spin, have been at first scared and then just blown away by the shear power and acceleration from any speed.
