Operating temperatures
#26
Senior Member
Oh comeon, no snark there.
It was not rhetorical - I was asking you. Why put an exhaust on. Why use better oil or other fluids. Why install/change anything that isn't available from the MB parts catalog if they did such a good job from the factory. Is that your stance on this? If so that's fine, but it's not what I believe.
It was not rhetorical - I was asking you. Why put an exhaust on. Why use better oil or other fluids. Why install/change anything that isn't available from the MB parts catalog if they did such a good job from the factory. Is that your stance on this? If so that's fine, but it's not what I believe.
#27
I do 92C coolant and 110C oil temp on usual, a bit higher in Manual mode. At first I was freaking out because I thought the car was running to hot, took it to MB and the tech said that these temps are normal and this thing runs "hotter" than other "regular" versions of course.
#28
Super Member
Since I skipped over most of the thermostat debate (reached my limit today), my temps in my '14 are higher . My H2O is at the same, about 194-197, but oil runs higher - lowest after warm up maybe 221 on cool day highway cruise, but most often closer to 230-233. Haven't flogged on the car too intensely yet, but curious my #s are higher than others. IIRC someone stated that post-FL cars generally run hotter than pre-FL, it this true? Anyone know why?
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Battle Ground WA
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C63AMG, NIssan NX2000, Pontiac Fiero GT
Water steady at 197F. Oil much more volatile . Climbing gently to 1800 ft raises oil to 220-230F, coolant only rises 2 degrees F. As stated it would be interesting to have head-block coolant jackets plumbed and instrumented for temp. That would not be 197F.
#30
Super Member
Using your logic " The idea behind the lower opening temp is to slow the rate of increase, that's all". Then why not run a 160 stat?
As stated prev, the stat (190) is to provide fast warm up so the emission control systems can be brought on line. This is why a fault will occur if the ECU has seen a longer than normal time for warmup, usually seen when stat fails, open or extreme cold as we see here. Besides all benefit is lost with the 180 as the oil temp takes longer to reach operating temp and any benefit with the 180 is lost. Larger rad(thickness) will give you what you wish to achieve.
As stated prev, the stat (190) is to provide fast warm up so the emission control systems can be brought on line. This is why a fault will occur if the ECU has seen a longer than normal time for warmup, usually seen when stat fails, open or extreme cold as we see here. Besides all benefit is lost with the 180 as the oil temp takes longer to reach operating temp and any benefit with the 180 is lost. Larger rad(thickness) will give you what you wish to achieve.
Whomever mentioned the reason for the 195'ish t'stats was emissions, was dead on. Been this way in all cars for over 25 years. It is well known in the performance world for all cars to change the tstat out for a 180 to get more consistent performance. If the coolant temps still creep over 200 and will not drop, then it is time to start looking at better radiators