Buying a C63 that no one wants
The 3 parts ran about $5k. This will show on carfax now, but the accident damage was purely cosmetic.... With a front end collision anything under $10k could be cosmetic with these cars...
I drive a car worth (lets say) $45-$48k (un-wrecked of course), I get a bumper ding. Do I; A) Pay the $1500 (at worst case) to have the bumper repaired and come out clean a the end? or B) Pay a $500 deductible, have a body shop fix it, and lose $10k resale value from a bad car fax?
Bad CarFaxes showing "minor" are typically under say $2k worth damage, anything above that gets called worse from what I remember. "Minor to Moderate" sounds to me like $7K-$15K damage, which may include headlights, hood, bumper cover, bumper, etc.
Take a look at the painted bolts that hold the fenders on, if they are chipped up (fro the use of a socket for removal), the fenders were removed, and at least probably painted if not replaced. If they are not chipped up, next I would be looking for overspray under the hood. Look at the alignment of body panels and see if they all match fro the left side of the car to the right.
Im saying all of this assuming you may not know these few little tips, if you do, I apologize in advance and will quit sounding like a know-it-all pompous ***! lol
The 3 parts ran about $5k. This will show on carfax now, but the accident damage was purely cosmetic.... With a front end collision anything under $10k could be cosmetic with these cars...
From being in the car sales force for a number of years, and what I can remember of reading all those carfaxes, once you get into replacing costly parts, ie. hood, bumper cover, headlights, etc., the verbiage leans toward moderate as the costs begin to escalate over the few thousand dollar mark and starts reaching a higher percentage of the vehicles net value.
If I'm not mistaken, insurance companies base their records on percentages, cost of damage vs value of vehicle. Once it reaches a certain percentage they consider the vehicle a total loss, before that, the lingo varies of course.
Again, from what I remember, I think it is as follows:
Minor - aesthetically damaged, repairs under xyz %
Moderate - replacement of body panels etc, repairs over xyz %
Major - bag deployment, frame damage, structural integrity compromised - repairs considerably over xyz %, but under total loss %
Total Loss - repairs over xyz %
At least this is my take on it.
also, PJ and the audi dealership wouldnt release the information of the first owner, hard to contact with no name or number
edit: also, the (texas german autohous) PPI inspector also told me that he thinks the reason it isn't selling is because the car has a very specific market.. believable but I wonder if they are working with the dealership. Another strange thing is that they didn't have anything to send me when I asked for it.
Last edited by jas0ndotc0m; Oct 30, 2014 at 11:03 AM.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
I drive a car worth (lets say) $45-$48k (un-wrecked of course), I get a bumper ding. Do I; A) Pay the $1500 (at worst case) to have the bumper repaired and come out clean a the end? or B) Pay a $500 deductible, have a body shop fix it, and lose $10k resale value from a bad car fax?
To your point, I had an experience EXACTLY like this. My CLS500, I had a very light hit to the rear bumper. Since I didn't know the underlying, and it was just paint chips, it was reported to the lady's insurance that hit me. Turns out, the damage was only about $800, basically pull the bumper off, strip it, respray, and reattach.
The rub was this was on the CarFax as an "accident to the rear"..so that killed the original quote I got on the resale when I sold it. Knocked off about $4K for $800? That was not a good deal.




So i think it really is the market in the area and the accident , dont worry too much about why it didnt sell
Car is perfect but be wary that the front bumper does not resist paint chips as well as a factory painted bumper. Stay far clear of salt trucks if you drive in winter...
Easy diy-er.
Congrats.





