Crankshaft pulley fell off...Is my crankshaft still reusable?
Regarding removal of the remaining key, good advice above.
Looking at the pictures I can't tell if the balance key is shared with what I believe is the timing gear inside beyond the seal or if the balancer has its own key.
I'd also consider using a punch to lightly tap it out. The groove should extend to the end of the crank but I can't see that in the pictures. If it does use the punch to tap it perpendicular, away from the crank.
Key looks like it may go into the gear
Hard to tell from the parts diagram
If someone has the online shop manual a detailed diagram would really help the guy out
pulley item 31 slips onto 18 the timing gear
secured by a thru bolt and a key in a pulley recess and the gear keyway
bolt goes into the crank, key into the timing gear slot
are you saying the key and pulley must be bought as a set?
if he can extract the broken key can he just insert the new one?
or are you saying something on the gear itself is broken?
ouch
pulley item 31 slips onto 18 the timing gear
secured by a thru bolt and a key in a pulley recess and the gear keyway
bolt goes into the crank, key into the timing gear slot
are you saying the key and pulley must be bought as a set?
if he can extract the broken key can he just insert the new one?
or are you saying something on the gear itself is broken?
ouch
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Last edited by immelman; Dec 2, 2014 at 04:57 PM.
There's no much room in the front of the motor to work with or I would of already tried this.

I've done this a few times under different circumstances.
Drill and tap the face of the key where it's broken off. Thread a screw into it and try to work it out.
Yours isn't the first to have worked itself loose. Good luck.
Pin it if you're still able then 250nm + 90° like the Stage 3 setups:
Does the keyway go all the way thru the gear? eg, not a blind slot but open on both ends
A sc puts a lot more stress on the belts/pullies
Normally 5-10 hp for the alt/pumps/etc
If the sc makes 150 hp at 70% eff that means the belt must supply 45 hp to drive the sc
The net goes to the crank
That translates to a lot of torque on the drive pullie
T = 5252/6500 x 45 hp ~ 35 lb ft
At a 1.5" radius that is 300 lb in shear on the key
4-5 times what it sees non sc'ed or stock
Eye balling it that pin is good for maybe 500 lb in shear, with no reduction for the impulse fatigue of throttle/off throttle
If the key is not sold seperately they probably reused the old one and may have damaged during the new pulley install
Regardless major suckage
Last edited by Ingenieur; Dec 2, 2014 at 06:51 PM.
I would try anything before pulling the engine and opening it up
Glue or weld a pick to it
Penetrating oil and heat, hit it with compressed air to try and blow it out
Drill ez out
What ever
Does the cover need to come off to replace the seal?
The stage 3 you drill the crank for two more key ways.
You need to get that broken keyway out of the crank. Hook something behind it that you can hit out with a hammer. A custom tool might be needed.
The stage 3 you drill the crank for two more key ways.
You need to get that broken keyway out of the crank. Hook something behind it that you can hit out with a hammer. A custom tool might be needed.
So he could get a U shaped pick/tool behind it and 'pull' it out?
Is thay keyway used with the stage 3?
Why can't he leave it?
like engineer says, you could just clean the crank up, leave the broke keyway there and install the 8 rib system since you will install two new keyways with it.
My main concern is if my crankshaft will be okay from the evosport pulley spinning on it prior to falling off. I have a OEM pulley that's on the way and should arrive Friday. I'm going to pull out the fan and radiator support to see what kind of room I have to work with before pulling the motor. Hopefully the OEM crank pulley will sit on the snout well enough to not create any wobble.
My main concern is if my crankshaft will be okay from the evosport pulley spinning on it prior to falling off. I have a OEM pulley that's on the way and should arrive Friday. I'm going to pull out the fan and radiator support to see what kind of room I have to work with before pulling the motor. Hopefully the OEM crank pulley will sit on the snout well enough to not create any wobble.
if you use the oem pulley you have to use the key, so the broken one must be removed
it prevents the pulley from spinning
the 8 rib pulley?
how is it secured?
do you drill 2 'dimples' and use set screws????
????
if you use the oem pulley you have to use the key, so the broken one must be removed
it prevents the pulley from spinning
the 8 rib pulley?
how is it secured?
do you drill 2 'dimples' and use set screws????
????






