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Crankshaft pulley fell off...Is my crankshaft still reusable?

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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 07:25 PM
  #26  
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The punch is a good idea
Be slow, patient and methodical
Do not rush
Once you get a bit of movement and have some length for purchase see if you can get needle nose vice grips on it
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 07:30 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by odonnks
OP - was there anti seize like paste on the threads of the bolt. Also, can you post a picture of the head of the bolt?

Regarding removal of the remaining key, good advice above.

Looking at the pictures I can't tell if the balance key is shared with what I believe is the timing gear inside beyond the seal or if the balancer has its own key.

I'd also consider using a punch to lightly tap it out. The groove should extend to the end of the crank but I can't see that in the pictures. If it does use the punch to tap it perpendicular, away from the crank.
You may be right
Key looks like it may go into the gear
Hard to tell from the parts diagram
If someone has the online shop manual a detailed diagram would really help the guy out
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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 07:37 PM
  #28  
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Parts diagram

http://www.mbonlineparts.com/parts/2...iagram=F339050


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Old Dec 1, 2014 | 11:12 PM
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the keyway looks like it's broken in half from the pics. I dont think you can get them separately. This repair is probably going to be impossible with the engine in the car even if you can source a keyway. The front timing cover will need to be removed, which requires the oil pans to come off. At this point you might as well just pull the motor out. Do it right, replace your headbolts with the arp studs, throw some headers on it while it's all apart too.
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 11:33 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by roadtalontsi
the keyway looks like it's broken in half from the pics. I dont think you can get them separately. This repair is probably going to be impossible with the engine in the car even if you can source a keyway. The front timing cover will need to be removed, which requires the oil pans to come off. At this point you might as well just pull the motor out. Do it right, replace your headbolts with the arp studs, throw some headers on it while it's all apart too.
Yeah, so I've decided to just pull the motor. I took a look at the working space given if I were to try and remove the key while the motor is in the car, and it does not look fun. I'm waiting on weistec to get back to me on ordering some ARP headstuds and have those installed along with my headers while the motor is out. Hopefully the OEM pulley will slide back on ok after I clean up the knicks on the shaft. This has been a complete nightmare but hopefully when the car is up and running correctly again, it would be well worth it.
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 11:42 AM
  #31  
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let me see if I understand this

pulley item 31 slips onto 18 the timing gear
secured by a thru bolt and a key in a pulley recess and the gear keyway
bolt goes into the crank, key into the timing gear slot

are you saying the key and pulley must be bought as a set?

if he can extract the broken key can he just insert the new one?
or are you saying something on the gear itself is broken?

ouch
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 12:06 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Ingenieur
let me see if I understand this

pulley item 31 slips onto 18 the timing gear
secured by a thru bolt and a key in a pulley recess and the gear keyway
bolt goes into the crank, key into the timing gear slot

are you saying the key and pulley must be bought as a set?

if he can extract the broken key can he just insert the new one?
or are you saying something on the gear itself is broken?

ouch
In order for me to extract the key from the chain sprocket, I have to remove the timing cover along with oil pump chain and timing chain. When the key sheared off, it made it sit flush with the timing gear so there's nothing to grab a hold of it.
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 02:50 PM
  #33  
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What a mess. Should of used the stock pulley.
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 04:54 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by pNutz
In order for me to extract the key from the chain sprocket, I have to remove the timing cover along with oil pump chain and timing chain. When the key sheared off, it made it sit flush with the timing gear so there's nothing to grab a hold of it.
Just a thought, but you could try and drill and tap a portion of the broken key once you have the tap in there you will have something to pull on. I have done something similar with success.

Last edited by immelman; Dec 2, 2014 at 04:57 PM.
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Merc63
What a mess. Should of used the stock pulley.
yeah, you should tell the previous owner that.

Originally Posted by immelman
Just a thought, but you could try and drill and tap a portion of the broken key and then insert a small screw in order to have something to pull on. I have done something similar with success.
There's no much room in the front of the motor to work with or I would of already tried this.
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 05:02 PM
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Use a 90 degree air drill.

Remove the fan and radiator and you will have lots of room.
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 05:04 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by pNutz
There's no much room in the front of the motor to work with or I would of already tried this.
Bummer! Not even with a small 90 degree drill? I have one that I bought from harbor freight for cheap...
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 06:07 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by immelman
Just a thought, but you could try and drill and tap a portion of the broken key once you have the tap in there you will have something to pull on. I have done something similar with success.
Try this. Nothing to loose and allot to gain if this works.
I've done this a few times under different circumstances.

Drill and tap the face of the key where it's broken off. Thread a screw into it and try to work it out.
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 06:12 PM
  #39  
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Crap Evo pulley to spin the Weistec with insufficient clamping torque?

Yours isn't the first to have worked itself loose. Good luck.

Pin it if you're still able then 250nm + 90° like the Stage 3 setups:
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 06:47 PM
  #40  
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Does the gear have to be removed?
Does the keyway go all the way thru the gear? eg, not a blind slot but open on both ends

A sc puts a lot more stress on the belts/pullies
Normally 5-10 hp for the alt/pumps/etc

If the sc makes 150 hp at 70% eff that means the belt must supply 45 hp to drive the sc
The net goes to the crank
That translates to a lot of torque on the drive pullie
T = 5252/6500 x 45 hp ~ 35 lb ft
At a 1.5" radius that is 300 lb in shear on the key
4-5 times what it sees non sc'ed or stock
Eye balling it that pin is good for maybe 500 lb in shear, with no reduction for the impulse fatigue of throttle/off throttle

If the key is not sold seperately they probably reused the old one and may have damaged during the new pulley install

Regardless major suckage

Last edited by Ingenieur; Dec 2, 2014 at 06:51 PM.
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 07:02 PM
  #41  
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Side note
I would try anything before pulling the engine and opening it up
Glue or weld a pick to it
Penetrating oil and heat, hit it with compressed air to try and blow it out
Drill ez out
What ever

Does the cover need to come off to replace the seal?
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 07:27 PM
  #42  
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I have the same Evosport pulley. It leaked oil after installation due to geometry differences from stock and installation error. I had to have a new seal put in. Its been two years and still no leaks. My point is: be sure to get a new seal and be very careful about the install. Based on your pics, I would not consider changing the crank.
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 07:40 PM
  #43  
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You don't need to pull the engine. You just need the 8 rib system from the stage 3.

The stage 3 you drill the crank for two more key ways.


You need to get that broken keyway out of the crank. Hook something behind it that you can hit out with a hammer. A custom tool might be needed.
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 08:14 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Merc63
You don't need to pull the engine. You just need the 8 rib system from the stage 3.

The stage 3 you drill the crank for two more key ways.


You need to get that broken keyway out of the crank. Hook something behind it that you can hit out with a hammer. A custom tool might be needed.
So the cam gear keyway is thru not blind?

So he could get a U shaped pick/tool behind it and 'pull' it out?

Is thay keyway used with the stage 3?
Why can't he leave it?
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Old Dec 2, 2014 | 10:29 PM
  #45  
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Why the talk of the cam gear? It should be untouched?

like engineer says, you could just clean the crank up, leave the broke keyway there and install the 8 rib system since you will install two new keyways with it.
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 08:18 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Merc63
Why the talk of the cam gear? It should be untouched?

like engineer says, you could just clean the crank up, leave the broke keyway there and install the 8 rib system since you will install two new keyways with it.
I think he was refering to the timing gear.

My main concern is if my crankshaft will be okay from the evosport pulley spinning on it prior to falling off. I have a OEM pulley that's on the way and should arrive Friday. I'm going to pull out the fan and radiator support to see what kind of room I have to work with before pulling the motor. Hopefully the OEM crank pulley will sit on the snout well enough to not create any wobble.
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 08:32 AM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by pNutz
I think he was refering to the timing gear.

My main concern is if my crankshaft will be okay from the evosport pulley spinning on it prior to falling off. I have a OEM pulley that's on the way and should arrive Friday. I'm going to pull out the fan and radiator support to see what kind of room I have to work with before pulling the motor. Hopefully the OEM crank pulley will sit on the snout well enough to not create any wobble.
yes, the timing gear, I called it the cam (drive) gear since it spins the cams


if you use the oem pulley you have to use the key, so the broken one must be removed
it prevents the pulley from spinning

the 8 rib pulley?
how is it secured?
do you drill 2 'dimples' and use set screws????
????
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 09:02 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Ingenieur
yes, the timing gear, I called it the cam (drive) gear since it spins the cams


if you use the oem pulley you have to use the key, so the broken one must be removed
it prevents the pulley from spinning

the 8 rib pulley?
how is it secured?
do you drill 2 'dimples' and use set screws????
????
The 8 ribbed pulley adds two more keys to the Weistec crank pulley. I asked how Weistec how much the 8 ribbed set would cost me and was quoted $2000 which is way out of my budget at the moment.
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Old Dec 4, 2014 | 09:28 AM
  #49  
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Isn't the timing gear using the keyway to locate? Are there two on the motor?
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Old Dec 7, 2014 | 11:19 AM
  #50  
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Couple of pics of the timing gear going on the crankshaft.

Mercedes Benz AMG 63 Engine production video.
Attached Thumbnails Crankshaft pulley fell off...Is my crankshaft still reusable?-c63tg.png   Crankshaft pulley fell off...Is my crankshaft still reusable?-c63amgtg2.png  
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