C63 AMG (W204) 2008 - 2015
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DIY: Head bolt swap on M156.

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Old Sep 24, 2015 | 09:35 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Merc63
If you already have coolant passing the head gasket then you either have a broken or stretched bolt. Most likely stretched. Thing with that is, you go to remove that stretched bolt and the head busts off when removing it and your screwed. Now you have to pull the engine to get the head off and remove that broken bolt.


If you get lucky and the bolts all come out but coolant has already passed through the gasket, you might be ok if you torque down the studs, you might not...
Since the head will likely break off right at the top you can probably extract the bolt.
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Old Sep 25, 2015 | 08:53 AM
  #52  
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Good luck
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Old Sep 25, 2015 | 01:30 PM
  #53  
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You make it sound impossible. It's not that deep in the head casting.

Of all the old bolts I've seen on here the threads look clean. How much resistance was there once the bolt was cracked loose? Could you turn it by hand easily?
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Old Sep 25, 2015 | 11:27 PM
  #54  
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Bolt is down in the head doubt there is a way to get something around it. Might be possible, forgot the pressure would be off it if broken.
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Old Nov 8, 2015 | 04:46 PM
  #55  
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So in this video, where exactly do we have to stop pulling bits off of the engine to replace the studs? About the 3:15 minute mark?

I'm assuming after you've taken apart the head, you can replace the bolts one at a time.

Sorry for the newb questions. I'm a fairly competent DIY'er, but haven't been in the AMG scene for a couple of years now.


Last edited by AMG3.2; Nov 8, 2015 at 10:29 PM.
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 10:11 PM
  #56  
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4:20 if you do it by the book correctly.
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 10:58 PM
  #57  
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Once cams are removed you can removed the head bolts.
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 08:01 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by roadtalontsi
4:20 if you do it by the book correctly.
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 12:26 PM
  #59  
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Last edited by BLKROKT; Nov 10, 2015 at 12:28 PM.
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 11:43 PM
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Old Nov 11, 2015 | 01:21 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by roadtalontsi
4:20 if you do it by the book correctly.
Originally Posted by Merc63
Once cams are removed you can removed the head bolts.
Thanks guys!
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 04:28 PM
  #62  
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head bolt

is there anyway to identify if the head bolts have been changed. Can it be identified by VIN if issue was resolved on this model?
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 09:51 PM
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Yea the dealer should be able to pull the service history. We had one guy here, we were gonna do head bolts and my friend checked at dealer, it was already done, he never even knew.
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Old Feb 9, 2016 | 10:23 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Euler
I have not done it yet, but I'm going to soon: Weistec studs SLS buckets and maybe their billet idler set. Cam timing kits are available on line and have all the necessary tools. The Weistec instructions are excellent and you can download them to study up a bit. The buckets can be easily removed with a magnetic retrieval tool which is how I do it on my motorcycle.
For what its worth to all that are reading this, the shop guide from MB says not to use a magnet on the buckets. "Use of a magnet my cause minute deformations to occur to the surface of the bucket, instead use a suction cup to perform the operation."
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Old May 16, 2016 | 10:50 PM
  #65  
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Bolts one by one

I'm thinking of doing the one by one bolt swap.
Did this work for you or did you ended up having to do the full gasket R&R due to compromised HG?
Did you follow any specific replacement pattern / tightening procedure?
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Old May 17, 2016 | 12:47 AM
  #66  
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I'll jump in here an say that if you've had the check coolant level light come on at all, you're in for a head gasket R&R. I speak from experience, unlike those that tried to tell me to just do the gaskets, once these gaskets have started to leak, there's no way to get them re-sealed without removing the heads. When I was researching MLS gaskets before my experiment, I had read several accounts of people re-using them, but they always did some sort of surface prep to the gaskets before re-using them (ie. coating them with copper spray gasket) and had no issues, whatsoever. However, take my word for it, if you're already using coolant, you need to replace the head gaskets. I've got about 5k on my new gaskets and haven't used so much as a drop of coolant. I didn't get through 2 tanks of petrol after changing just the bolts and was already using coolant. Just my $.02. Best of luck.
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Old May 17, 2016 | 05:53 PM
  #67  
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Thanks, appreciate the feedback.
I don't have a leak (yet?) but was thinking a bolt swap is something I'd do for preventive maintenance; a HG is maybe too painful for preventive.

On another note (maybe for future reference) did you use the official puller for the drive gear? I assume the gear does not fit into the engine, as in it won't fall into the crankcase?

Originally Posted by jclaus98
I'll jump in here an say that if you've had the check coolant level light come on at all, you're in for a head gasket R&R. I speak from experience, unlike those that tried to tell me to just do the gaskets, once these gaskets have started to leak, there's no way to get them re-sealed without removing the heads. When I was researching MLS gaskets before my experiment, I had read several accounts of people re-using them, but they always did some sort of surface prep to the gaskets before re-using them (ie. coating them with copper spray gasket) and had no issues, whatsoever. However, take my word for it, if you're already using coolant, you need to replace the head gaskets. I've got about 5k on my new gaskets and haven't used so much as a drop of coolant. I didn't get through 2 tanks of petrol after changing just the bolts and was already using coolant. Just my $.02. Best of luck.
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Old Jan 15, 2017 | 11:47 PM
  #68  
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hey in this first picture can you see if there is a way to get to the timing cover bolts with out taking the camshafts out? I am looking into replacing the timing cover on mine 09 c63 and just wondering what all i need to take off. if you can shed some light it would be greatly appreciated!
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Old Jan 16, 2017 | 08:33 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Boris's c63 AMG
hey in this first picture can you see if there is a way to get to the timing cover bolts with out taking the camshafts out? I am looking into replacing the timing cover on mine 09 c63 and just wondering what all i need to take off. if you can shed some light it would be greatly appreciated!
Which cover bolts are you talking about?



If it's the bolts from the cam adjuster cover, (#225) you don't need to touch the cams to replace that.
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Old Jan 16, 2017 | 09:01 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Jasonoff
Which cover bolts are you talking about?



If it's the bolts from the cam adjuster cover, (#225) you don't need to touch the cams to replace that.
no those are not it. on the top of the timing cover there is two bolts on each side.If i can figure out how i will try to submit a picture to show you what i am talking about
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Old Jan 16, 2017 | 09:02 PM
  #71  
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Old Jan 16, 2017 | 09:29 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by Boris's c63 AMG
i just had mine mostly apart for head bolts and I am 99.7% sure that you have to remove the cam actuators to remove the timing cover as the chain guides and rollers are supported internally by the cover...But the cams themselves can stay in place no problem
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Old Jan 16, 2017 | 09:43 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by jptaylor
i just had mine mostly apart for head bolts and I am 99.7% sure that you have to remove the cam actuators to remove the timing cover as the chain guides and rollers are supported internally by the cover...But the cams themselves can stay in place no problem

oh ok. so the timing chain will have to be re set once i take the cover off? i got an alldata subscription but it doesnt give me a whole lot of info on the removal procedure.
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Old Jan 17, 2017 | 07:46 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by jptaylor
i just had mine mostly apart for head bolts and I am 99.7% sure that you have to remove the cam actuators to remove the timing cover as the chain guides and rollers are supported internally by the cover...But the cams themselves can stay in place no problem
Are you sure? The actuator doesn't support the chain, it rides on a separate gear. It looks like the timing chain cover would come off no problem.

Below pics from George's build.




Attached Thumbnails DIY: Head bolt swap on M156.-dscn34681.jpg   DIY: Head bolt swap on M156.-dscn35401-1.jpg   DIY: Head bolt swap on M156.-timingchain-1.jpg  
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Old Jan 17, 2017 | 07:55 AM
  #75  
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Great post Jason and I believe I will stand corrected...if you look at the center of the center unit you see that snout on the front? That is what is integral to the timing cover but those pics definitely show it still in place with cover gone....what I was going by was the procedure for head removal which included removing the front cover and showed removing the gears with a special puller tool prior to cover removal.....good man!
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