When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Took my car into Lake Country Alignment in Oconomowoc, WI to get an alignment done. It turned into an interesting education session. We set it up and took it for a spin to see how I liked the setting and then made a few other minor adjustments. It was awesome to get such personal service and having the opportunity to get the car dialed in the way I like it. The front feels a "little" loose, so I may go back in to put more toe-in.
Otherwise, I was hoping some folks could post up their specs as well to see where everyone else is at.
Good friend owns a specialist tuning and indy MB garage over here in UK and he has been setting up the C63's he does on Black series settings.
Mine has H&R springs only with the BS factory settings, and handles spot on.
Conscious these things are subjective tho, as we all have different tastes and driving styles and what works for one may not be good for another, but I am very happy with the current set up for my driving needs daily.
I don't know, I went to Lake Country Alignment which is in SE Wisconsin. The print out are likely the same because many shops use the similar/same equipment. He did my alignment on a Hunter DSP600. It's an older Hunter machine but since he's been doing this for a long time, his experience is making up for the older machine.
I just looked at my tires and found my front passenger tire to be worn to the wire on the inner part with the outer part 75% new.
I pulled my alignment spec done after installing KW V3 coilovers in end of May this year.
The alignment specs I got are:
Front: 3.2 negative camber, 1/10” toe in
Rear: 2.4 negative camber, 1/8” toe in
I’m no expert but from reading the posts the front seams excessive. What’s the recommended spec with the KW’s?
attaching a picture of my front Michelin Cup2 tire.
I just looked at my tires and found my front passenger tire to be worn to the wire on the inner part with the outer part 75% new.
I pulled my alignment spec done after installing KW V3 coilovers in end of May this year.
The alignment specs I got are:
Front: 3.2 negative camber, 1/10” toe in
Rear: 2.4 negative camber, 1/8” toe in
I’m no expert but from reading the posts the front seams excessive. What’s the recommended spec with the KW’s?
attaching a picture of my front Michelin Cup2 tire.
Wow - I just ordered new tires, as my passenger front Michelin PSS looks identical to yours... I've got a 2010 with the P30 package, which has a lowered/stiffer suspension. This thread is timely as I've been trying to decide on alignment specs. My driver front tire was worn a bit on the inside, but not as much as the passenger front, the rears are wearing evenly...
I just looked at my tires and found my front passenger tire to be worn to the wire on the inner part with the outer part 75% new.
I pulled my alignment spec done after installing KW V3 coilovers in end of May this year.
The alignment specs I got are:
Front: 3.2 negative camber, 1/10” toe in
Rear: 2.4 negative camber, 1/8” toe in
I’m no expert but from reading the posts the front seams excessive. What’s the recommended spec with the KW’s?
For the W204 there is only Front and Rear Toe - directional adjustment OEM. We therefore manufacture front Camber and Caster, Rear Camber (and extra Toe) for all W204 models. The patented design allows precise single wrench adjustment accurately on car (under load) - direct on alignment rack!
CAMBER - Allows to actually "change tire contact angles" to return to OEM specs resolving costly, premature edge tire wear, improving traction/understeer/oversteer.
CASTER - Correctly resolves steering pull, increases steering response with better turn in and high speed directional control. Along with improved anti dive/lift under brake and acceleration.
Extra feature is that the front kit replaces the 4 highest wearing bushings and is 2 axis/mono ball (self aligning) without the OEM oil and air voids. Result is also noticeably improved brake and steering response.
For the front (only) you can fit fluted bolts - but these are inaccurate "one position" off set bolts only providing a minimal 1/8" (.3 degrees). While the K-MAC bushes allow more than 3 times this adjustment and is precise.
Rear kit also provides precise Camber adjustment for the first time (and extra Toe to compensate for the new Camber facility).
Also manufactured are front "replacement" top strut mounts (coil spring models) - for "Track days" Stage 2 (Street/Race) or Stage 3 (Full Race) when wanting to reduce understeer - in the pursuit of hitting those corner apexes every time and going deeper into the corners with increased traction and braking response.
Another popular kit manufactured is uprated replacement bushings (12) for the '6' multi link rear arms. Providing significant improvement to rear end stability, less twitch/flex, improved traction especially when applying power to lane change/overtake.
W204 incl. AMG
Front Camber and Caster kit #502616K $480 Rear Camber (and extra Toe) kit #502226K $480
Stage 2 (Street/Race) Front Strut adjusters Camber and Caster kit #503016-2L $545 Stage 3 (Full Race) Front Strut adjusters Camber and Caster kit #503016-3L $545
Rear multi link arms performance bush kits (12) #502628K $480
Delivery one kit $30 with each additional kit $20. We accept PayPal, Visa or MasterCard. (Dealer inquiries welcome).
I apologize in advance if this reply will offend anyone.
Spoke to my alignment guy and he said if I find any other solution for camber adjustment other then K-Mac he would work on the car otherwise he wants nothing to do with it. He claims he had many complaints about noise and rattling and he had to take off these kits of cars before - I found it to be very odd and somewhat harsh so I called another recommended guy and he said it is what it is and he cannot help me.
WTF do I do from here? Any other options?
I found this on eBay, thoughts?
I recently went with 1/16" toe F&R. I will say that for the first few days I felt a very slight tendency to wander at highway speeds compared to before but acclimated very quickly to that and don't notice it now, it's the "new normal." The car feels more responsive and quicker to turn in with these settings with no noticeable loss of directional stability.
I apologize in advance if this reply will offend anyone.
Spoke to my alignment guy and he said if I find any other solution for camber adjustment other then K-Mac he would work on the car otherwise he wants nothing to do with it. He claims he had many complaints about noise and rattling and he had to take off these kits of cars before - I found it to be very odd and somewhat harsh so I called another recommended guy and he said it is what it is and he cannot help me.
Two situations encountered.
1. Fact is new products and design concepts do create controversy. But we do see it as a whole lot better for a company to fill a need than to sit on the fence doing nothing flawlessly.
2. Vehicle suspensions and loose components cause metal to metal contact and noise.
1. Background is that we saw the need to reinstate from the early 90’s full, precise front and rear adjustment facilities.
Currently OEM there is only Toe (directional) adjustment no Camber or Caster to change “tire contact angles”. Essential to correctly resolve premature edge tire wear and steering pull.
For the front only – you can fit a inaccurate (one position) offset bolt – but only offers a minimal 3mm (1/8”) 0.3 degree.
Other procedure last 40 or so years has been the time consuming (and inaccurate) process of dismantling suspension arms and repositioning a offset bush to a new alignment position then having to reinstall.
We therefore went about invented and patented a concept whereby a single wrench could be used to precisely adjust required settings “on car accurately” (under load) direct on alignment rack!
Providing more than 3 times adjustment of the one position bolt (and replacing at same time the 4 highest wearing suspension bushings).
It is often said the simplest design is the best design. The K-MAC adjuster invention…. (once you get your head around it) is just that.
2. The most common industry standard worldwide for lock nuts is hardened reverse mounted teeth that depend on friction to secure. Heading the brands would be the Swedish Nord Lok washer.
Principle being that once fully tightened the teeth bite in to prevent nuts loosening.
But as above nuts are dependent on being fully tight! We therefore saw the need to invent a method whereby once a nut is in place no matter what the tension it would be impossible to inadvertently loosen.
More than 2 years ago we came up with this design breakthrough – K-MAC lock tab system Attached is info sheets on all above and also the K-MAC lock system for rear airmatic control arms!
Last edited by K-Mac; 11-10-2017 at 10:48 PM.
Reason: Attachments Update
Posting to this old thread in hopes that someone can help me with recent alignment issues. I have an '09 P30 with Bilstein PSS10's and 19in wheels. Running 245's in front and 275's in the rear. The steering wheel was slighlty off center when driving and there was an ever so slight pull to the right so I went in to have the alignment checked and wheel straightened. I also had a popped rear tire (nail) that needed replaced. Things have gotten worse since then.
Wheel is still slightly off center (seems like the didnt fix this at all). Car now follows the road alot more and wants to dart around on its own. Under hard acceleration, the rear end feels like its on skates and steering is floaty. I am hoping that someone can look through the alignment sheet and notice something that isnt obvious to me. Any help is appreciated!
They added a bunch of positive toe especially in the rear. That with the fairly aggressive rear camber (factory issue you can’t correct without aftermarket parts) is going to make the rear more fatty for sure. The steering wheel being off center is just the alignment guys not paying attention or knowing what they are doing. Where did you take it? What alignment where they trying to get it to stock? There are tons of posts on here about people going to less aggressive camber and toe settings myself included and the handling and tire life is improved
Had the local tire discounters do it when they replaced a popped tire (needed it done quickly and didnt have the time to wait for an appointment at an indy shop). I was hoping that they would only address the steering wheel being off center as I had no driving issues prior to this. Forgot to mention that I have the rear K-mac bushing kit as well. However, I dont think they messed with this at all.
It seems to me that they only messed around with the toe on both front and rear. I have been digging through old threads but its hard to get an exact answer on what I should be shooting for.
05-07-2015, 10:40 AM
