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Well, I think the car is officially getting pissed off at me... It has done this weird limp-mode thing on me twice now where it barely moves in "D" from a stop like the tranny is slipping or something and you have to give it a bunch of gas (way more than normal) for it to go... Like the revs go up but the car barely moves. I have to stop, put it in park, and restart the car for it to go back to normal... Then it drives fine afterward. WTF??
Anyone else experience this? I'm assuming it's cause I've been driving around with the same CEL on for a few days now, but that other thread about the guy with the slipping MCT has me paranoid now...
Removed ABS controller ECU, sent it off for repair, reinstalled and all is good.
Removal/install advice
It is very tight with the controller facing the valve cover/coil pack/head.
Not a job for big hands/fat fingers.
Remove heat shield with 3 x T30 bolts.
The controller has 4 x T20 bolts which are inset from the front face of the controller by about 30mm. You cannot use a T20 socket with a small 1/4 drive ratchet because the controller housing has a narrow pathway for the bolts. You need a narrow shaft T20 for the job
Top 2 bolts are easy.
The lower 2 bolt heads have approx 70mm between them and the valve cover/coil pack/head. The bolts are tight and need to be “cracked”.
Having spent an hour removing the 2 lower bolts I created a tool for installation. Take one long T20 impact driver bit (50mm to 60mm long) and use a small 1/4 ratchet head spanner placed over the 1/4 drive shaft end. Because you are pretty much blind to the lower bolts I placed them in the controller holes with a little blutack prior to refitting the controller - this had the bolts in location ready for tightening and avoided them dropping down into the engine bay. Install done in a couple of minutes.
In my case, I think it was just brake dust buildup on the hub sensor ring. The sensor itself is very protected. I still removed them, cleaned the sensor casing and the housing.
What is the process for doing this? Anyone know of a write-up?
The problem of the iniperative ABS, power steering & esp just goes away when I switch to the spare key... strange but why? I actually followed one of the threads here that suggested that & it worked !!!
Originally Posted by Adi-Benz
Yes, if you lost power steering get used to the feel first.
I drove a month (mine had power steering but no abs, ESC, cruise) eventually it fixed itself, idk.
The problem of the iniperative ABS, power steering & esp just goes away when I switch to the spare key... strange but why? I actually followed one of the threads here that suggested that & it worked !!!
Thats weird, I'm gonna give that a shot... Worth a try.
Possibly dumb question: My speedometer doesn't work and now I'm getting a fault code for wheel speed sensor. Can it just be my wheel speed sensor that is throwing all these codes and not that ABS / ESP control module?
Possibly dumb question: My speedometer doesn't work and now I'm getting a fault code for wheel speed sensor. Can it just be my wheel speed sensor that is throwing all these codes and not that ABS / ESP control module?
Possibly dumb question: My speedometer doesn't work and now I'm getting a fault code for wheel speed sensor. Can it just be my wheel speed sensor that is throwing all these codes and not that ABS / ESP control module?
Yes (my initial error codes indicated front left wheel speed sensor). I replaced my speed sensor but within a few weeks of replacing the speed sensor the problems were back and ultimately I had the ABS ECU repaired for a full and final fix.
Yes (my initial error codes indicated front left wheel speed sensor). I replaced my speed sensor but within a few weeks of replacing the speed sensor the problems were back and ultimately I had the ABS ECU repaired for a full and final fix.
really hope thats not the case for me. a 35.00 sensor sounds a lot better than a $1500+ ecu
really hope thats not the case for me. a 35.00 sensor sounds a lot better than a $1500+ ecu
The ECU is repairable - in Australia it cost me around AU$650.00 including two way shipping and a couple of day turnaround. No doubt cheaper in the USA.
I ran in to the same issue yesterday...connected it to my scanner and Battery looked healthy, also didn’t get any notifications or warnings for the wheel speed sensor.. I did get the code for the esc module (see pic below).. I just went ahead and sent out my Esc module to XeModEx, they charge $500.. these guys are legit and it’s a way better choice than getting raped by the dealer and paying $1500-2000
I ran in to the same issue yesterday...connected it to my scanner and Battery looked healthy, also didn’t get any notifications or warnings for the wheel speed sensor.. I did get the code for the esc module (see pic below).. I just went ahead and sent out my Esc module to XeModEx, they charge $500.. these guys are legit and it’s a way better choice than getting raped by the dealer and paying $1500-2000
Let us know how it goes. After driving with this issue and no power steering for weeks, my issue fixed itself. I’m sure it will come back at some point.
Ice build up possibly interfering with the sensors?
The last two days I have had this on, plus power steering malfunction inoperative (power steering is working while warning is on) and also run flat indicator inoperative. This is coinciding with a temperature drop to around -16 and huge amounts of snow fall. I’m really hoping it has to do with the cold and could ice build up be effecting the sensors???
I ran in to the same issue yesterday...connected it to my scanner and Battery looked healthy, also didn’t get any notifications or warnings for the wheel speed sensor.. I did get the code for the esc module (see pic below).. I just went ahead and sent out my Esc module to XeModEx, they charge $500.. these guys are legit and it’s a way better choice than getting raped by the dealer and paying $1500-2000
****update****
so I got the abs module back from xemodeex, haven’t installed it yet, going to install it in a few hours.. one of the screws in the abs module were stripped.. I went to the dealer to see if they had it in stock, and apparently I have to buy the whole abs module($1290) if I want that screw LMAO. Does anyone know where I can find this screw? I’ve attached a pic of the screw and diagram. The screw that I need is #20 in the diagram. The pic that I included of the screw is not the stripped one btw
so I got the abs module back from xemodeex, haven’t installed it yet, going to install it in a few hours.. one of the screws in the abs module were stripped.. I went to the dealer to see if they had it in stock, and apparently I have to buy the whole abs module($1290) if I want that screw LMAO. Does anyone know where I can find this screw? I’ve attached a pic of the screw and diagram. The screw that I need is #20 in the diagram. The pic that I included of the screw is not the stripped one btw
final update for anyone that's interested.. i installed the abs module and cleared the lights, the car is good to go. If you want to save yourself from getting raped by the dealer then call xemodex.
I have the same error 5001/5944 N30/4 EBV ABS ESP inoperative
Originally Posted by roadtalontsi
its the electrical module box on the abs hydraulic unit. Usually these are vin coded, mated to the car but i cant say i've done one on a 204 in a long time. It'd definitely not common but like anything electrical it can take a dump at any time, you never know. Sometimes it just wakes up on the wrong side of the bed and will reset and never come back if your lucky .
hi Guys
i have C220 CDI w204 model 2007
the same exact issue i faced today .
However , i didn’t notice any loss in power probably I didn’t exceed 40km inside Carcassonne where I live .
for sure there was no stiffness in the steering wheel ... only the message on dash board as shown in the attached images
I used icarsoft MB2 to diagnose the issue and came up with the following codes:
A for the braking system:5944 control unit N30/4 electronic stability program fault .
5001 control unit N30/4 electronic stability program fault both codes related to the same message coming from console cluster unit ( Abs , ESP , EPV & Runflat system is inoperative),
any idea what is the involved spare parts number & what is repair instructions?
B
have these codes from engin control :
23EA check components N14/3 glow output stage no signal ,
26EA same descriptions as above code.
2054-000 AD converter of the control module N3/9 CDI control unit is faulty.
2054-007 short circuit to positive or open circuit to component B50 fuel temperature sensor .
Any help in the right direction is really appreciated , I would like to have the chance to access any DIY method because I really can’t afford a visit to MERCEDES dealer .
when I bought the MB2 scanner I thought I can use the codes generated with MERCEDES online service manual to identify the spare parts numbers and location of each damaged part , sadly this MB2 is not good for that at all & unless you are an expert DIY person it wins do any good .
I work at mercedes-benz dealer as a tech and this problem happened to my 2009 c63... It was EPS,ABS,EPC light and no more power steering. I was after a intake manifold gasket job and pcv .. So, I scanned the car and only 1 code was ther : EPS Control unit internal fault (dont remember the code number) and when a erease it , and start the car , all light was away on powersteering back but after like 1 miles , all lights come on and no more power steering.
So , i went to the shop and use the Star xentry scanner and try to just erease it but did nt work. Old tech at my job said : you need to replace your eps unit , so i didnt want to spend all this money for a f****** unit crash. I took the scanner and only do a Control Unit Initial Start up( You need to do this when you replace the unit) before replace anything. And after 30minutes of coding , it bring back alive the unit. no more lights !
so try this at your local mb dealer sorry for my bad english i'm french lol
i have this issue and I live in France
the problem with the Dealer ( LG MERCEDES in my Case ) is that they won’t just do a software reset , they will charge you by hour and try to squeeze as much juice as they can from customers !
if you know otherwise please let me know
thank you
So... I'll try to write a "definitive" guide to this problem based on my experience.
I have a Mercedes W204 C class 320 Avantgard Sport diesel.
The milage on my car was 350.000km when the error occured.
A month ago I got the same problems as described in the thread:
ESP, ABS, ESP inoperative
Run flat monitoring stopped
Power steering loss over 20Km/h
My reasearch were as following:
Reading all the posts in this thread.
Did a read out of values from the abs/speed sensors with wurth wow --> All sensors were performing within operational parameter.
Tried a reset of the esp control unit with wurth wow --> No change
Disconnected battery for 30 minutes --> No change
Checked the connectors on the conneting plug to the esp control unit --> No corrotion, tears, wears or damage.
The wow scan reveiled no other faults than 5001, 5944 and 5945 (There is an internal fault in control unit N30/4)
I could delete the fault codes, but once reaching 20km/h the codes reappered and I lost power steering.
As far as I can see, this is a semi common problem on these esp units. They may temporary go away, but most likely they will reoccur at some point. It doesn't seem to be a specific milage "limit" for when the error occurs.
I located the last available part number (last version) in xentry parts information that could be found for my VIN.
I then ordered a second hand part from a car with 87.000km milage. Parts range from only 120$ upwards to 350$. This is affordable compared to get the ESP unit repaired by xemodex or getting a completely new unit.
I then replaced the whole unit including both abs pump and esp control unit.
After installing the new unit i got ABS and power stearing back, but another issue occured. When you start the car it will most certainly generate a new error code: 6301 - Chassis number in control unit EZS and ESP do not match. This is because the ESP control unit is VIN coded to the vehicle.
In a furhter attemt to pinpoint the actual problem I took the ESP control unit off the old ABS unit, and installed it on the new ABS pump that was installed. 5001, 5944 and 5945 errors reoccured. This makes me believe that the problem is most definately in the ESP control unit and not in the ABS pump assembly.
After taking the car to my mercedes dealer for recoding, they realised that the Xentry diagnostic will NOT reprogram a unit that has been previously VIN coded. They say it's for "security reasons". They offered me to install a completely new unit costing 2800$ plus work. As this is a little bit to rich for my taste I did some more digging.
The research on the 6301 error code led me to that Autel maxisys (or some newer models of Autel) will actually do this job. At least for the w204.
I got in contact with a local shop that had the Autel tool, and they programmed the unit within 10 minutes.
Now I got no errors and all systems are working perfectly.
To sum up, this is my conclution:
If no other errors than 5001, 5944 or 5945 is present in the fault memory, this is an internal fault in the ESP control module. The ABS pump unit will most likely be fine.
You could either salvage and swap only the ESP control unit, or reinstall the whole salvaged part. Fairly easy to swap the control unit. Just read instructions further up in the post.
If you have actual errors in the fault memory pointing to speed/abs sensors, fix these first. If no error on speed/abs sensors, the ESP unit is most likely the culprit.
A used esp control unit can be programmed with Autel maxisys or similar.
Xentry diagnosis will NOT be able to reprogram a previously VIN coded unit (if you don't know how to override the security codes in the Xentry)
A salvaged part should be easy to find as it is the same on C180-C350 ranging from 2007 to 2015.
The ESP module does not contain any servicable parts. I've torn the old one apart, and no obvious electrical faults or bad soldering joints were to be found on the print board.
Hope this helps to pinpoint the issue for other users having this problem.
The ESP module does not contain any servicable parts. I've torn the old one apart, and no obvious electrical faults or bad soldering joints were to be found on the print board..
Do you have pictures? I have seen a few and the solder joints are absolute garbage.
08-02-2019, 12:43 PM
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sorry for my bad english i'm french lol
