GRP

Ebay will provide you with a a 2 leaf spreader tool similar to the ZDMAK one from around $20.00 upwards. A professional quality Lisle or other brand can be had for under $60.00. Given you will likely only ever use the tool a few times the cheaper tools will be more than adequate although the more expensive "professional" tools will no doubt be nicer to use - regular pad changers doing track days or like can justify buying a professional product.

I will report back on bolt sizes when I do my pads and rotors in around 2 to 3 weeks time.

Jasonoff

Are the paddles wide enough to make contact with all 3 pistons on each side? If not pushing 1 or 2 in will push the other one out.

zcct04

The GiroDisc tool in the photo you posted is nice - it looks like it should be wide enough to reach all three pistons. The littler tool I posted is just a modified c-clamp and looks like it may only catch one piston at a time. It's something you would want to use of the pad itself before you pull it out, instead of on the individual pistons.

Steve Richo

Sizes sound about right when I did mine, if you have a normal socket set up to 25mm it will cover all you need. You will also need a decent breaker bar for the calliper bolts, they were in pretty tight.

gogoquadzilla

I just changed my pads last night and it was the easiest car I've ever changed brakes on. I was easily able to push the pistons in with my hands.

GRP

I changed rotors and pads to day.

Hawk Street 5.0 pads and Zimmerman rotors. I masked up the rotors and painted the exposed hub area with a high heat gloss black brake paint.

Caliper mount bolts are a 10mm in hex head.

Rotor retaining screw is a T30.

You need a long pin punch (a blunt 75mm/100mm 3/4 inch nail will do) for knocking out the caliper pad pins.

My rotor screws came out easily. Appeared to have an anti seize on the thread. I have read of the need to use an impact to loosen them.

I spread the pads out/pushed pistons in using an old screwdriver whilst everything was still assembled. Pistons did not move whilst the calipers were hanging and being cleaned.

My rotors on both sides were seized on. I had lubricated and let them sit. I tried gas torch heat on 1 side. Heavy duty hitting from behind did nothing. The solution was to drive a "wedge" between the caliper mount and rotor rear face. I was fortunate to have a very large long cold chisel with a long slow taper on it to use. Largest size flat head screwdriver would work. Wedge it in and knock in further with hammer until the rotor pops off. After struggling with the first rotor trying different approaches I went straight to the wedge when a knock from the rear did not dislodge the second rotor - it was off in seconds after a lot of stuffing around with the first.

Cleaned everything up including giving the hubs a rub with heavy wet and dry paper. I applied a little high temp grease to the hub rotors before putting on the new rotors.

Put calipers on but not fully tightened to mount. Drop in pads. Put in cross bolt, rattle clip and pins. Tighten caliper mount bolts. Bled brakes whilst everything was easy access with wheels off.

Bedded in pads as per instructions.

If not for the seized rotors it would have all been straight forward.

And perhaps I should have waited for a cooler day - working in 30c sunshine was not ideal.

Wobble64

somehow I don't get that brake rotor seizing problem. Mine don't live long enough I guess, LOL.


Oh,yes, and I change front rotors between my summer and winter setup. Nothing has time to rust on. I really do all this just to save time yes. Haha....


Thanks for the write-up!

m a x i m u s

Thanks for the info, that's helpful. My gear is coming in the mail this week, my pads and rotors are in dire need of changing!