2010 C63 without warranty, risk it or trade it in?
#1
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'10 C63 AMG
2010 C63 without warranty, risk it or trade it in?
Hey all.
My 2010 C63's (Canadian, P31 performance package, 60000km) warranty runs out this September. I'm torn between keeping it without warranty and risking the headbolts failing, or trading it in for a newer C63.
1. If I keep it, I'd probably swap out the headbolts for Weistec studs. Rotors might be wearing out soon as well, so might have to replace those.
So ~$3000CAD for parts&labor for the studs, and ~$3000-4000CAD for rotors and pads.
2. Trade in for something newer. Preferably would look for a 2014 507 edition, but that will be hard. Still not a fan of the new C-Class exterior , but the interior is beautiful.
With the Canadian dollar doing so bad, I would like to make a smart move financially but still have fun with a 63 . As for my current C63, I absolutely love it. It's been rock solid since I got it. No changes in coolant levels, and engine normal oil loss (~1L/10000km), but it's in the affected range of the faulty head bolts and in my mind it just seems like a ticking time bomb.
Hopefully my fellow 63 owners can help me make a decision The car is stored for winter at the moment, but once summer comes I plan on driving it very hard until September, at least.
Cheers
My 2010 C63's (Canadian, P31 performance package, 60000km) warranty runs out this September. I'm torn between keeping it without warranty and risking the headbolts failing, or trading it in for a newer C63.
1. If I keep it, I'd probably swap out the headbolts for Weistec studs. Rotors might be wearing out soon as well, so might have to replace those.
So ~$3000CAD for parts&labor for the studs, and ~$3000-4000CAD for rotors and pads.
2. Trade in for something newer. Preferably would look for a 2014 507 edition, but that will be hard. Still not a fan of the new C-Class exterior , but the interior is beautiful.
With the Canadian dollar doing so bad, I would like to make a smart move financially but still have fun with a 63 . As for my current C63, I absolutely love it. It's been rock solid since I got it. No changes in coolant levels, and engine normal oil loss (~1L/10000km), but it's in the affected range of the faulty head bolts and in my mind it just seems like a ticking time bomb.
Hopefully my fellow 63 owners can help me make a decision The car is stored for winter at the moment, but once summer comes I plan on driving it very hard until September, at least.
Cheers
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
You can replace with MB OEM headbolts, no need to go with studs. That'll save you money right there. Headbolts are like $10-15 each for OEM (updated bolts too).
Also, you don't NEED to put p31 rotors back on your car. If you just drive it on the street you can get standard c63 rotors and will save a TON of money. The standard rotor is still a great performer and slotted, it just isn't two pieces. An OEM two piece is $1833/ea (USD) and a regular rotor is $264 (USD). Those are off ECSTuning which is a great place to shop.
Sounds like you love the car you're in. I'd do the maintenance and keep that car on the road.
Also, you don't NEED to put p31 rotors back on your car. If you just drive it on the street you can get standard c63 rotors and will save a TON of money. The standard rotor is still a great performer and slotted, it just isn't two pieces. An OEM two piece is $1833/ea (USD) and a regular rotor is $264 (USD). Those are off ECSTuning which is a great place to shop.
Sounds like you love the car you're in. I'd do the maintenance and keep that car on the road.
#3
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'10 C63 AMG
You can replace with MB OEM headbolts, no need to go with studs. That'll save you money right there. Headbolts are like $10-15 each for OEM (updated bolts too).
Also, you don't NEED to put p31 rotors back on your car. If you just drive it on the street you can get standard c63 rotors and will save a TON of money. The standard rotor is still a great performer and slotted, it just isn't two pieces. An OEM two piece is $1833/ea (USD) and a regular rotor is $264 (USD). Those are off ECSTuning which is a great place to shop.
Sounds like you love the car you're in. I'd do the maintenance and keep that car on the road.
Also, you don't NEED to put p31 rotors back on your car. If you just drive it on the street you can get standard c63 rotors and will save a TON of money. The standard rotor is still a great performer and slotted, it just isn't two pieces. An OEM two piece is $1833/ea (USD) and a regular rotor is $264 (USD). Those are off ECSTuning which is a great place to shop.
Sounds like you love the car you're in. I'd do the maintenance and keep that car on the road.
#4
Don't worry about it just drive it, if the bolts fail they fail it's not a certainty that they will.
Also I know many dealers work with customers on the price of the repair since it's a known issue
Also I know many dealers work with customers on the price of the repair since it's a known issue
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
You dont NEED to do the headbolts. Yes, people have had issues. However, it really isnt as common as a forum makes it out to be. After all, a lot of people head to forum communities in the first place with complaints or concerns so issues (especially those that can be expensive) tend to be exaggerated some.
I just hate telling PFL owners to not worry at all and then have something bad happen. I'd feel guilty. But at the end of the day, the headbolts aren't as bad as people make them out to be.
#6
Bring it to Edmonton, I'll do the head bolts and brakes for much much less than that. Keep the car, do MB bolts, studs aren't needed for non blower cars. Done a few here now, zero issues. Good for resale too.
You don't need p31 brake rotors (two piece), that is where all the $$ comes from. The one piece rotors are fine, a faction of the price and I guarantee you won't notice a difference.
With 60,000km I can almost guarantee your p31 rotors are fine. I have 93,000km on mine and I still have material left before the wear limit. Dealer or shops just throw these rotors out and sell you new ones instead of just putting new pads on, which is all that is needed. The wear limit is about 3mm and with 60,000km you probably have 1mm of wear. The numbers are stamped on the rotor, just need to measure with a calliper to see where your at.
Shoot me a PM if interested.
You don't need p31 brake rotors (two piece), that is where all the $$ comes from. The one piece rotors are fine, a faction of the price and I guarantee you won't notice a difference.
With 60,000km I can almost guarantee your p31 rotors are fine. I have 93,000km on mine and I still have material left before the wear limit. Dealer or shops just throw these rotors out and sell you new ones instead of just putting new pads on, which is all that is needed. The wear limit is about 3mm and with 60,000km you probably have 1mm of wear. The numbers are stamped on the rotor, just need to measure with a calliper to see where your at.
Shoot me a PM if interested.
Last edited by Merc63; 01-24-2016 at 05:48 PM.
#7
Bring it to Edmonton, I'll do the head bolts and brakes for much much less than that. Keep the car, do MB bolts, studs aren't needed for non blower cars. Done a few here now, zero issues. Good for resale too.
You don't need p31 brake rotors (two piece), that is where all the $$ comes from. The one piece rotors are fine, a faction of the price and I guarantee you won't notice a difference.
With 60,000km I can almost guarantee your p31 rotors are fine. I have 93,000km on mine and I still have material left before the wear limit. Dealer or shops just throw these rotors out and sell you new ones instead of just putting new pads on, which is all that is needed. The wear limit is about 3mm and with 60,000km you probably have 1mm of wear. The numbers are stamped on the rotor, just need to measure with a calliper to see where your at.
Shoot me a PM if interested.
You don't need p31 brake rotors (two piece), that is where all the $$ comes from. The one piece rotors are fine, a faction of the price and I guarantee you won't notice a difference.
With 60,000km I can almost guarantee your p31 rotors are fine. I have 93,000km on mine and I still have material left before the wear limit. Dealer or shops just throw these rotors out and sell you new ones instead of just putting new pads on, which is all that is needed. The wear limit is about 3mm and with 60,000km you probably have 1mm of wear. The numbers are stamped on the rotor, just need to measure with a calliper to see where your at.
Shoot me a PM if interested.
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#9
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'10 C63 AMG
Bring it to Edmonton, I'll do the head bolts and brakes for much much less than that. Keep the car, do MB bolts, studs aren't needed for non blower cars. Done a few here now, zero issues. Good for resale too.
You don't need p31 brake rotors (two piece), that is where all the $$ comes from. The one piece rotors are fine, a faction of the price and I guarantee you won't notice a difference.
With 60,000km I can almost guarantee your p31 rotors are fine. I have 93,000km on mine and I still have material left before the wear limit. Dealer or shops just throw these rotors out and sell you new ones instead of just putting new pads on, which is all that is needed. The wear limit is about 3mm and with 60,000km you probably have 1mm of wear. The numbers are stamped on the rotor, just need to measure with a calliper to see where your at.
Shoot me a PM if interested.
You don't need p31 brake rotors (two piece), that is where all the $$ comes from. The one piece rotors are fine, a faction of the price and I guarantee you won't notice a difference.
With 60,000km I can almost guarantee your p31 rotors are fine. I have 93,000km on mine and I still have material left before the wear limit. Dealer or shops just throw these rotors out and sell you new ones instead of just putting new pads on, which is all that is needed. The wear limit is about 3mm and with 60,000km you probably have 1mm of wear. The numbers are stamped on the rotor, just need to measure with a calliper to see where your at.
Shoot me a PM if interested.
Yeah I think they are fine too, I haven't gotten the chance to measuring them since I've been away for a couple months. Lone Star in Calgary said they HAVE to replace rotors when replacing pads (something to do with liability), I don't know if I was just speaking with an idiot or that's their actual policy. If it is the case, that's quite bull****!
#12
MBWorld Fanatic!
Good advices above. I'll just add since you would like to remain in the NA community a 507 is not a bad idea either particularly if you find a good deal.
Coupe or sedan?
Coupe or sedan?
#13
Sweet, I might have to take you up on that offer. You might be hearing from me later this year
Yeah I think they are fine too, I haven't gotten the chance to measuring them since I've been away for a couple months. Lone Star in Calgary said they HAVE to replace rotors when replacing pads (something to do with liability), I don't know if I was just speaking with an idiot or that's their actual policy. If it is the case, that's quite bull****!
Yeah I think they are fine too, I haven't gotten the chance to measuring them since I've been away for a couple months. Lone Star in Calgary said they HAVE to replace rotors when replacing pads (something to do with liability), I don't know if I was just speaking with an idiot or that's their actual policy. If it is the case, that's quite bull****!
#14
Newbie
I have 105k hard miles, still strong
Im at 105k mi and have taken my C63 across the country with 90k on the odometer. These engines are bullet proof. Run Lucas injector cleaner, white bottle, keep up with your fluid changes and I think you will be happy.
#15
MBWorld Fanatic!
You dont NEED to do the headbolts. Yes, people have had issues. However, it really isnt as common as a forum makes it out to be. After all, a lot of people head to forum communities in the first place with complaints or concerns so issues (especially those that can be expensive) tend to be exaggerated some.
I just hate telling PFL owners to not worry at all and then have something bad happen. I'd feel guilty. But at the end of the day, the headbolts aren't as bad as people make them out to be.
this is true, ive never met anyone in person who had a headbolt problems and ive met enough
#16
I have an '09 with 75k that I have had minimal issues with. In my opinion, the headbolt issue is not as widespread as the forums make it look. Especially if you don't plan on tuning it. I would wager that a bunch of the issues came from engines running higher hp.