When checking/changing air filters.....
#1
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When checking/changing air filters.....
I have seen it before I'm sure but to reemphasize AND to make it easier to search....
i think it happened slowly as it didn't stand out until I had one of those "Damn my idle seems high" kinda moments....but when I realized it was actually high of course I broke out a piece of hose and Old Blue(Butane torch bottle) and went to waving it around, behind and all over the intake and manifold...sure enough when I got to the rear side and rear of the box top idle jumped up, ok there it is...now down the inside up against the manifold and damn there's number two...low and behold it was in the same place on the other box top as well...pull the lids and sure enough the top of the aFe filter gaskets are pressed in and not making contact with the lid on both boxes...I have always placed the filters in the lower box, then maneuvered the lid into the Y-tube and then straight down to get it seated as square as possible...as it turns out that is an idiotic way to do it....
Before you start go ahead and spray some lube on a rag and wipe the inside of the Y-tube and the outside of the outlet on the lid(the rubber connector on the Y-tube gets sticky and makes installing MUCH harder!!!)
Loosen the Y-tube clamp all the way out so it is as free as possible.
Next, place the air filter IN THE LID, flip lid over and wrap your fingers underneath the lid so you're holding the filter in the lid upside down.
Now, while holding the lid with the rear angled down start the outlet into the Y-tube and push rearward FIRMLY. The now lubed pieces will slide all the way to their seated position and stop.
Once the lid outlet seats in the Y-tube level it out so that your wrapped under fingers touch the filter channel on top of the box bottom. I promise this will align all the screw holes.
Carefully slide your fingers out from between the lid and bottom while pressing down until it seats on the filter channel.
With one hand holding downward pressure on the lid to keep it from moving use the other to install the hold down screws.
Repeat on other side and you are done with zero leaks.
I know it seems like a remedial explanation but hell, I'm a mechanic and have been doing it the hard way(read as doing it WRONG) for 3yrs now. Maybe it'll help some of you DIYers through the process without having to redo it after when your idle is way higher than before......
i think it happened slowly as it didn't stand out until I had one of those "Damn my idle seems high" kinda moments....but when I realized it was actually high of course I broke out a piece of hose and Old Blue(Butane torch bottle) and went to waving it around, behind and all over the intake and manifold...sure enough when I got to the rear side and rear of the box top idle jumped up, ok there it is...now down the inside up against the manifold and damn there's number two...low and behold it was in the same place on the other box top as well...pull the lids and sure enough the top of the aFe filter gaskets are pressed in and not making contact with the lid on both boxes...I have always placed the filters in the lower box, then maneuvered the lid into the Y-tube and then straight down to get it seated as square as possible...as it turns out that is an idiotic way to do it....
Before you start go ahead and spray some lube on a rag and wipe the inside of the Y-tube and the outside of the outlet on the lid(the rubber connector on the Y-tube gets sticky and makes installing MUCH harder!!!)
Loosen the Y-tube clamp all the way out so it is as free as possible.
Next, place the air filter IN THE LID, flip lid over and wrap your fingers underneath the lid so you're holding the filter in the lid upside down.
Now, while holding the lid with the rear angled down start the outlet into the Y-tube and push rearward FIRMLY. The now lubed pieces will slide all the way to their seated position and stop.
Once the lid outlet seats in the Y-tube level it out so that your wrapped under fingers touch the filter channel on top of the box bottom. I promise this will align all the screw holes.
Carefully slide your fingers out from between the lid and bottom while pressing down until it seats on the filter channel.
With one hand holding downward pressure on the lid to keep it from moving use the other to install the hold down screws.
Repeat on other side and you are done with zero leaks.
I know it seems like a remedial explanation but hell, I'm a mechanic and have been doing it the hard way(read as doing it WRONG) for 3yrs now. Maybe it'll help some of you DIYers through the process without having to redo it after when your idle is way higher than before......
#2
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2012 C63;1971 280SE 3.5(Sold);2023 EQS 450 SUV 4 Matic (Wife's)
When I change or check my air filters I take the air boxes right out of the car in one piece. I undo the MAF connectors, loosen the clamps on the y-tube and remove the intake tubes from the front of the boxes and lift the whole unit from the engine.
That way I can undo the box tops on the bench, inspect/replace the air filters and screw the tops back down with everything aligned and no difficulty getting the filters and tops aligned with the bottoms.
The only difficult part is aligning the the two small pins and one large knob with the appropriate mounting fixtures on the bottom of the box. With a little care and attention it is not that hard but it is important to have it all lined up correctly. Insert the back oval on the box top into the y-tube and insert it securely. Then site down the fuel rail and you will see when the seats in the box are directly over the ball seats on the engine. Press down firmly and you will feel the box seat on its mounting points. Careful if the points are not aligned you can bend the big spring clamp on the box and deform the rubber/plastic inserts in the box. I have done both but managed to get them straightened out and now take more care when reattaching the air box to the engine.
That way I can undo the box tops on the bench, inspect/replace the air filters and screw the tops back down with everything aligned and no difficulty getting the filters and tops aligned with the bottoms.
The only difficult part is aligning the the two small pins and one large knob with the appropriate mounting fixtures on the bottom of the box. With a little care and attention it is not that hard but it is important to have it all lined up correctly. Insert the back oval on the box top into the y-tube and insert it securely. Then site down the fuel rail and you will see when the seats in the box are directly over the ball seats on the engine. Press down firmly and you will feel the box seat on its mounting points. Careful if the points are not aligned you can bend the big spring clamp on the box and deform the rubber/plastic inserts in the box. I have done both but managed to get them straightened out and now take more care when reattaching the air box to the engine.
#3
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+1. Way easier doing it that way as well.
#4
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2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
+2 same here, boxes out. Just have to make sure that the y-pipe seals completely around the box outlets. There's about 2" along the bottom edge that can either fold under or not seal completely that you have to be aware of.