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Looking good Scratch, I like it! OE tune, right? Looks really good tbh.
MTV10....even better. Bang in line with what the V7 should flow. Some headers on top will see you touching 500 to the wheels
The sampling of the data is a bit misaligned, but I guess we have to accept that, being Bluetooth phone apps.
For the sake of general comparisons, I think we should all be looking at 6700rpm, as that's the stock rev limit and an even playing field.
I think my p31 redline is 7200 but not sure.i will do a pull with my 104 oct tune since most of you guys are running 28 degrees timing.
I've also been looking at my y pipe and want to know if it's the same as the ml63 from pictures it looks different but could be from the ecu sitting there.the renntech box removed the stock y pipe and could be the reason for the extra 10hp.
I think my p31 redline is 7200 but not sure.i will do a pull with my 104 oct tune since most of you guys are running 28 degrees timing.
I've also been looking at my y pipe and want to know if it's the same as the ml63 from pictures it looks different but could be from the ecu sitting there.the renntech box removed the stock y pipe and could be the reason for the extra 10hp.
Here is a few pics of ml pipe.
this y pipe is found on the earlier m156 i think they changed in 09. we now have some kinda vacuum on that square box in the middle of the y pipe.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
That’s a great pic. It shows just how restrictive that piece is. Even if this one is a little different (it shouldn’t be), it doesn’t look to be materially different where it squashes down. The RT box has a much better design there with a big smooth transition - that’s where all the gains come from. I’m in the process of getting a bigger Y-pipe made as long as I have everything apart and down for awhile with bigger TBs going in, will post about it when done.
Also FYI that plastic box on the FL cars in the “Y” of that junction serves two purposes it seems. It’s a Heimholz resonator to quiet the intake, AND it’s some sort of vacuum reservoir for the power brake assist. General consensus is to keep it.
Edit: That’s a simple-looking but very complicated piece there by the way. You can’t just bend up and weld pipe and stick it on. That lower seal into the intake manifold has to be absolutely airtight. It’s clever with everything like the lower gasket and upper flexible couplers built right in and then secured with molded clips. And it’s plastic so you can’t cut it up and modify. It’s taking some thinking...
That’s a great pic. It shows just how restrictive that piece is. Even if this one is a little different (it shouldn’t be), it doesn’t look to be materially different where it squashes down. The RT box has a much better design there with a big smooth transition - that’s where all the gains come from. I’m in the process of getting a bigger Y-pipe made as long as I have everything apart and down for awhile with bigger TBs going in, will post about it when done.
Also FYI that plastic box on the FL cars in the “Y” of that junction serves two purposes it seems. It’s a Heimholz resonator to quiet the intake, AND it’s some sort of vacuum reservoir for the power brake assist. General consensus is to keep it.
Edit: That’s a simple-looking but complicated piece there by the way. You can’t just bend up and weld pipe and stick it on. That lower seal has to be absolutely airtight. It’s clever with everything built in and then secured with clips. And it’s plastic so you can’t cut it up and modify. It’s taking some thinking...
If you fab something up I'll pay for one also.or I might just buy that damn sls intake lol
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Originally Posted by skratch77
If you fab something up I'll pay for one also.or I might just buy that damn sls intake lol
Yeah if it was about a grand less maybe, it is damn sexy. But I think it would turn into a huge headache. In order to realize the most benefit from that with the short runners best for high-rpm, you’d want to do the SLS valvetrain while you’re at it so you could wind it out further (just SLS cams and SLS BS lifters really - not sure if the valve springs etc are different). Otherwise it’s not really going to be great in like 95% of situations, it would probably feel a bit sluggish just driving around. And then you have to chop up the hood and they never look right after. I’m not ready to do all that when I could just drop in a Weistec supercharger for about the same cost and have significantly more useable power. It’s just not that important to stay NA for me.... I think.
After installing LTH last week, I did a quick 3rd gear log tonight to check my MAF readings in g/s.
Before LTH I hit a max reading of 420 g/s. Tonight, based on what I see in the log I hit a max of 410 g/s. Colder temps, similar altitude and the headers gave me +40whp dyno proven. Why the lower air flow reading?
After installing LTH last week, I did a quick 3rd gear log tonight to check my MAF readings in g/s.
Before LTH I hit a max reading of 420 g/s. Tonight, based on what I see in the log I hit a max of 410 g/s. Colder temps, similar altitude and the headers gave me +40whp dyno proven. Why the lower air flow reading?
I wouldn't worry about it. To many variables and this brings back bad memories as I hit a deer doing logs.
I'm going to venture out tomorrow and get a few more. Hopefully I don't hit a deer.
One thing I noticed was timing was at 26 vs the 28 it was at when I hit 420 g/s.
Just went out and ran a few logs. One thing to note is I changed my air filters; had 40k KM's on the ones I was running during my previous log and they were dirty. Replaced with OEM paper filters.
Top of 4th gear car read 442 g/s, with 26 degrees of timing, IAT's @ 43 degrees with ambient air temp at 33 degrees.
12-06-2017, 09:06 AM
