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...and if so, was there a lot that drained and did you access from top or underneath?
Doing my HBs (1 at a time), car on ramps with limited access from underneath and WIS not too helpful here - any info appreciated.
I doubt you could access it from up top. There's one on each side.
I didn't when I did mine. Just took longer to suck coolant out of the HB hole but I had a mityvac connected to a stainless steel tube which made it easy.
yeah, I kind of figured and thx for the response. I can see where the L-side is(very difficult best I could tell), and thought the R could be accessed from front(WIS pics suggests and no luck finding) but if on side, no idea where it is(from top view w/light+mirror).
Didn't want to pull a HB until coolant was drained but sounds like best (reasonably easy) method - I would assume start with a center bolt on each side(more HG support just to be overly cautious), drain completely, clean/dry and then move forward with the rest?
Probably a bad idea but is forcing air thru some part of the cooling system worth a shot to try and clear out (at least some significant amount) or would results be negligible with potential for causing damage?
Every time I've even mildly compromised on my HB project, it's bit me so I decided to take this on. All work was done from under the car with the RS being pretty straight forward and the LS far from it (PITA). I really couldn't find any info on this anywhere and given that WIS isn't much help either(other than pics to identify plugs), thought I'd post a DIY.
Lift is obviously ideal but I was able to complete this with the car on 4.5" ramps(about to bottom of side jack pad) but would STRONGLY recommend an add'l 4"+ clearance (RS will still be a PITA, but far less so).
A wide range of tools could work but after trying multiple combinations, would stick close to the following...
tray, eye protection, and good lighting from below(especially for LS) RS: approx 3.5' long 5/8" ID flexible hose and T40 allen wrench (5"x1.25" from HF set worked fine for me) LS: 15"+ long flex-head 1/4" ratchet(I used HB #67994 although a narrow extendable 1/4" would've probably been better) and 2" long narrow shaft T40 socket (from HB #68015)
For both sides, I left the filler cap on(tightened) until plug was loosened - not sure it makes much of a difference but can't hurt. Best guess, drained 1/2-2/3 quart of fluid from each side (after draining radiator 1st).
RS: *put tray in front of R tire and feed hose at an angle from there thru gap over steering rack until visible/accessible near plug
*loosen plug with allen wrench until easy to turn with hand(may get a light drip) *slip hose over plug and continue to loosen by spinning/guiding hose with hand until a decent flow *torque spec to tighten drain plug is 15Nm but I felt fine going beyond that via 'feel' - use your own judgent here
LS *No real easy steps here. Given the manifold and 2 neighboring hoses affecting the length/type of socket, along with position of access opening - the ratchet head will need to be tilted slightly down and be able to hold position (not loose/floppy) to place the torx on the plug. Given how small/awkward the access opening below the plug is(about 12" below it), you will need to position the torx on the plug by manuevering the rachet from below the opening and after doing so, ratchet at a slight angle while keeping pressure on the torx/plug (was able to get the socket to stick/hold when loosening but fluid spoiled that for tightening). I actually used a 3/8s ratchet/socket(getting a single 'click) to loosen and tighten the plug back up but could not get it to fully tighten with any confidence, and completed it with the 1/4" (2-clicks), and unless someone previously 'cranked' the plug on, the 1/4" should would for both. * Have the tray close by. *Loosen the plug until it begins to drip a decent amount and then get out of the way and move the tray into position - draining LS will take considerably longer than RS. Unlike the RS, very difficult to position/manuever the hose over drain plug w/o getting doused with fluid, but fortunately there are fewer obstacles when draining straight down (still a bit of a mess but not too bad). Another reason to not open it fully is that it is very difficult(if not impossible for some) to get your fingers on the plug with enough leverage to tighten it by hand to the point where the ratchet can catch(especially given the fluid lubeing things up) - you will need to manually tighten/reposition the torx on the plug multiple times until the ratchet can work regardless and IMHO, the less you need to do so...the better. note: you can position some support (long screw driver) at an angle thru the same basic area you used the hose on the RS to help keep the rachet head/torx in place - I attempted this with a heavy wire, but was too much a pain given the space I had to work with but feel it would have helped had I had some extra room.
If you're considering draining the block for HBs, I can see passing on the LS and siphoning from above(I'd still reluctantly do it but with the car raised much higher - never again the way I just did it), but no need to pass on the RS - with the right tools, its fairly easy.
pic is from directly below the RS and the drain plug is just right of center with coolant drop. Sorry no pic of LS - was too busy swearing.
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