These things really shouldn’t be reused and I’m a little nervous getting the car ready for track season as I’ve had the calipers on and off a number of times in the past couple years. Have read some horror stories about these fatiguing and letting go, catastrophically. Was just about to do it again tonight to put in new rear studs and didn’t have any spares. Can’t find the part numbers anywhere. Thx

Also I’m seeing torque spec of 135ft/lbs which seems pretty aggressive. I think mine are on there now at 85.

Awesome thanks

Yup that was a rough conversion thx. Also learned that the bolts are not exactly TTY, however they do stretch by design (“self locking”). This is why they should not be reused.

My thread title is wrong. I meant caliper to adapter bolt. And torque. Got the bolts. Still don’t have a good answer to the torque spec.

In the rear there there is no adapter if I remember correctly. Caliper bolts directly to the knuckle. Does anyone have the bolt part numbers and torque specs for those too? Just going to re-do all of them.

Yes, that’s right. I had reused the longer OEM red painted bolts, but now have the shorter RB bolts in there at 135ftlbs. If that turns out to be ~50ftlbs too much, I may have damaged the threads in the aluminum RB adapter. Still no definitive torque spec on these.

Those are the bolts we are talking about HERE

Awesome. I’m calling that 100ftlbs. Thanks.

Better than the doofus who wanted me to torque them to 40 :rolleyes:

Should there be loctite on the Allen bolts? I ask because even before my track day it appears they were backing out on one side after being reinstalled three months ago.

Yeah you ideally have to get it up in the air. Like on a lift. Very difficult with car on stands. I managed with a short extension on the reverse-hex socket and a 3/8” torque wrench (my Precision has a v long handle). You’ll be crouching and pulling up on the drivers side and will have trouble keeping the socket on the bolts while getting enough leverage. It’s ripe for a chin whacker.

Mine are are all still at 135ft-lbs. No problems so far. Will redo all of them over the winter when I install new rotor rings and use the 100ft-lbs spec and blue Loctite.

I was just watching youtube. She installed caliper studs to replace the bolts we have been talking about. She has a GT350 but the caliper mounting is fairly similar to ours. I wonder if anyone makes a set of caliper studs that would work on our cars.

I think that caliper studs would be a real pain in the ass. I’d rather have all that thread in the adapter or knuckle than a nut on the end with a dozen threads holding it on that would be more likely to spin off. Plus, it’s tight in there. I think this is an instance of trying to stud something for no benefit. If race cars don’t use studs then why would anyone do this? I just don’t see a benefit, only drawbacks.