Good to see you lurking still bro! Hope all is well!

Thanks for the insight on shortening the fuel line... I’ve thought of that in the passed but didn’t think it would make that much of a difference. Guess I got another project to tackle now haha.

Progressive controllers are great but I think they are only useful at the drag strip with a shot out of the hole and for traction issues. For most guys, on this forum, they are just gonna turn it in on for a hit on the expressway or see if there’s a new burble tune from eurocharged...

Direct port is the way to go for ultimate atomization and power. But comes at a price and way more components to worry about. That would definitely need a built trans to handle 200shot of direct port spray. With good tune that’s scratching 700 whp on this car with no heat soak... dry system you need a tuner that really knows wtf they are doing or things can go bad quick.

found this direct port setup on an old thread...

 

Discrete ^

 

The kit came in but I'm doing major top end work first. My car has had a issue with sometimes not sounding as loud and raspy with its exh tone. Iv done countless logging and I've put it down to failing cam adjusters. Sometimes the car sounds amazing and has really good bark and pops and then it goes away and the car sounds smooth and not nearly as loud.

So before doing the nos kit I'm going with black series lifters and new cam adjusters. It's a good time to do cams but I'm not sold on the cams that tasos is working on and will probably keep OEM cams if mine need replacement.

Just to give you guys an idea how cams can affect the car just go unhook your intake manifold change over valve and place it in the longer runner side and see how much low end you lose driving like that.

The same thing will happen if you cam it and not perfect the tune. You will lose power everywhere you want it.

 

The long runner is for low end the short runner is for high rpm but I get what you are saying

 

Yeah no, I get random thread notifications and it draws me in to check in and see what's good from time to time. Still waiting to see a thread where somebody fabs up an intake manifold for this motor

Yeah definitely man, it makes a difference only on the chance of having a lean hit for a moment, which could be the difference between an engine failure or not (depending on the dose and timing etc). Even the physical layout of the fuel routing can have a bearing on the pressure at the solenoid.

Funnily enough, I wasn't suggesting it for traction reasons (although that is definitely a good reason to have one). It was more to do with the effect of loading the cylinders up at lower rpm. I'll keep it short and concise:
So...consider the piston speed at like....3000rpm. Let's call it 'slow-ish'. If you run a 100hp fixed hit at that rpm, each cylinder will get a share of that 100hp dose which when compressed, would result in really high cylinder pressures. Lot's of torque, yes, but it also means that the strain on the piston rings is considerably higher now due to how much of the nitrous it's ingesting per stroke of the piston. When you add to the fact that the normal ignition timing map will be used, the ignition effectively becomes 'too advanced' and that loaded cylinder gets real hot, real quick. You can probably work out the rest. If that same 100hp hit comes in at 'high-ish' rpm like 6000rpm, the pistons are moving much faster and each piston/stroke physically cannot absorb as much of the nitrous per cycle, which means the cylinder pressure doesn't get loaded up and all of the bad things I mentioned in the low-ish rpm range are halved and more acceptable. In a boosted motor, the pressure in the cylinders can be alleviated by running a lot less timing....but if you do that on an NA street motor, it'll be really flat and rubbish to drive when you're off the juice.

So in summary - a progressive controller is beneficial more for being kind to the motor. Personally the traction side of it is secondary IMO.

 

This one time, in band camp, I actually gutted out an intake manifold to see if it would unlock a world of awesome horsepowers n stuff.

It didn't

(which is why nobody knew about it)

 

What are your thoughts on sls plugs and nitrous? My dealer has them at 22 a plug for the OEM SLS plugs.

 

I recommend them over 125 shot

 

Colder plugs and any form of FI are welcome. One thing I don't understand....you have those super plasma coils but you're not pushing them!

Grab some one-step colder copper plugs for the M156 and run some strong plug gaps to get the most out of your coils if anything, for better NA performance too.

 

what size gap do you recommend with the colder plugs?

 

Depends how much nitrous you're planning to run through the motor tbh. On the basis that most 4 cylinder NA cars with a compression ratio of around 11:1 are able to run a their factory gap (1mm to 1.1mm) for up to 50-60hp of a nitrous hit (12.5 - 15hp per cylinder), I'm going to say that an M156 (which has a compression ratio of around 11:1) would be fine with it's stock gap of around 1mm and should be ok up to around 100-120hp of nitrous (12.5 - 15hp per cylinder). Of course - you should still build up the shot slowly during a long and boring evening of making test passes and reading the plugs/feeling out smooth the engine is pulling etc

FWIW needing to close the gap starts to become an issue when the amount of dense air per cylinder becomes so much that the air physically 'blows out' the spark. Ideally in any motor you'll want to run the biggest gap possible that your ignition system can support for the conditions inside the motor.

 

Great thread. Did you ever run the setup? Asking for a friend

 

I am sure he did if he went through with it. Many of us owners have gone the nitrous route recently (viewing the fb pages as well) and without issues. Our cars seem to love it. I’m sure people will answer any questions you have. Pretty awesome community (helpful)

 

So I’m going to be running a 75-100 shot with no tune as someone above explained in detail that you don’t need a tune for this. Couple questions, do I need to upgrade my injectors to 550 if I have LTH? Also, as i am new to nos completely, when I want it to activate, would a boost controller be the part where I can flip a switch or would these kits only activate when I am WOT or somewhat around that since people where saying that above as well? Sorry for the inconvenience feel like I’m nagging after reading the ruthless threads from this forum

 

Sorry, maybe I should have worded that better. I’m well aware of the capability of running nitrous on M156. My setup will include a progressive 150 shot.

I was more asking about his personal experience, setup and tuning. I’ll be in good hands, as Barry will be doing the tuning. But it doesn't hurt to follow up, I don't think.

 

Agreed. Never hurts to follow up and triple check things

 

I personally would never run Nitrous without fine tuning it. For me it’s about a peace of mind. Spend few hundred dollars more and have a safer peace of mind is worth it to me. But this is subjective.

I run 630cc. On E85 as well. I run off a window switch. Sprays depending on what I set the WOT/RPM to. For example, currently I have set to spray at 4500 rpms and stop spraying at 7000 rpms, @ 90% throttle position. I’ll mess with it at times. There are people who spray all the way through the powerband.

You flip the switch in the panel (in the picture above in the glovebox) and whatever you have your window switch set to, it’ll spray based off that

 

I parted my car shortly after buying the kit and got into a w205 63.

I seen the guy I sold the kit to on Facebook and looks like his car is taking it well.

 

Will I be able to run NoS on 91 octane ad that’s the highest I have where I live? I’m also 4,500 ft above sea level if that helps.

 

Nitrous systems were actually developed by the Germans in WW2 for performance at high altitude for piston engine fighter aircraft 👍🏻

 

They were also running 100 octane fuel, at minimum.

(in many cases 150 octane - http://gasolinefuels.blogspot.com/20...tings.html?m=1)

 

That says by the end of the war their aviation fuel was 87 octane.

 

No. That’s not even remotely close to what it says. Here’s the full quote:

”In the United States the oil was not "as good", and the oil industry had to invest heavily in various expensive boosting systems. This turned out to have benefits: the US industry started delivering fuels of increasing octane ratings by adding more of the boosting agents, and the infrastructure was in place for a post-war octane-agents additive industry. Good crude oil was no longer a factor during wartime, and by war's end American aviation fuel was commonly 130 octane, and 150 octane was available in limited quantities for fighters from mid-1944. This high octane could easily be used in existing engines to deliver much more power by increasing the pressure delivered by the superchargers.
In late 1942, the Germans increased the octane rating of their high-grade 'C-3' aviation fuel to 150 octane. The relative volumes of production of the two grades B-4 and C-3 cannot be accurately given, but in the last war years perhaps two-thirds of the total was C-3. Every effort was being made toward the end of the war to increase isoparaffin production; more isoparaffin meant more C-3 available for fighter plane use.
A common misconception exists concerning wartime fuel octane numbers. There are two octane numbers for each fuel, one for lean mix and one for rich mix, rich being greater. The misunderstanding that German fuels had a lower octane number (and thus a poorer quality) arose because the Germans quoted the lean mix octane number for their fuels while the Allies quoted the rich mix number. Standard German high-grade 'C-3' aviation fuel used in the later part of the war had lean/rich octane numbers of 100/130. The Germans listed this as a 100 octane fuel, the Allies as 130 octane.
After the war, the US Navy sent a technical mission to Germany to interview German petrochemists and examine German fuel quality. Its report entitled “Technical Report 145-45 Manufacture of Aviation Gasoline in Germany” chemically analyzed the different fuels, and concluded that “Toward the end of the war the quality of fuel being used by the German fighter planes was quite similar to that being used by the Allies.”

 

Guess I misread. I had just woken up when I read that. How would lower octane play in to the effectiveness of a nitrous system tho? Other than the lower overall performance you might get from 91 compared to 93, 100 or whichever?

 

from where you bought the kit?