Cams out and on the workbench. Sitting next to the rebuilt adjusters.


Removed the first headbolt. First one took the longest as I got my process down. Remove bolt, inspect bolt hole for coolant/debris with boroscope, run shop vac with vac line attachment down bolt hole, re-inspect for coolant as necessary, clean face of head where bolt shouler will meet, apply small amount of sealant in same spot as factory, insert bolt and thread in, torque to 50Nm, torque to 270 degrees, repeat for the next one.

I was definitely glad I had my boroscope. There was plenty of times where the vacuum sucked all the coolant out of the bolt hole, but I could literally watch it fill back up as there was still small puddles of coolant in the cylinder head water jackets that would drain into the bolt holes. Was nice to be able to see when I had it all vacuumed out and cleaned. Here you can see the puddle next to the bolt hole.


All 10 passengers side bolts out. Next to one of the new ones to show where I applied a small amount of PTFE thread sealant. Same spot they used some on the factory bolts. Probably not necessary but whatever.


All new bolts in and torqued.


Cams back in, caps torqued to 10Nm all around. All 3 timing tools installed. Adjusters installed with new diamond washers and bolts. Not torqued yet, see my question below.


I got the exhaust adjuster back on and noticed my paint pen mark did not line up from adjuster to "phaser" or whatever the little wheel is called. This tells me that the teeth on the adjuster itself have not engaged the exact same position on the main gear as they did when I took them off. I am assuming the position of these teeth engaging on that gear doesnt matter as none of the timing tools have a way to account for that. Plus, the phaser wheel timing tool fits in perfectly, which I beleive is what tells the ECU the position of the cams anyways. Maybe I'm overthinking it, since it seems most people dont mark anything at all. As long as all the timing tools are installed correctly, which they are, and the crank is at 40 degrees before TDC, which it is, it seems the motor should be timed correctly. Hopefully this question makes sense.

See pic below. Red mark next to the "AE" on the wheel no longer lines up with the adjuster itself.

 

Did you replace the lifters?

 

I did not. They all look good at this time.

Found this in the WIS. Makes me feel a little better about the positioning of the adjusters during installation:

 

Moved onto the drivers side this morning. Removed the cams and found a lifter I dont like. Intake side all the way in the back. Catches my fingernail. Cam lobe is still in good shape and i'd like to keep it that way.



Decided its probably wise to just do the lifters while i'm this far in. Won't take long to quickly remove the cams on the passengers side.

I thought I read somewhere the the M156 lifters have been updated and are an improved design. Is this true? Would rather not spend $1300 on black series lifters for a daily driver. Anyone have the part number? Do they just drop in? Any prep work required to drop them in?

Thanks!

 

156 050 0225 you can not prime these unlike the Black Series lifters. Good luck hopefully lots of supply available!

The lifters have a lifespan of approx 130000 kms at which point their wear will increase and their ability to retain oil inside the lash compensatory element starts to leak oil.

 

Yep thats what I ordered. Should be here tomorrow. I believe they are the M159 SLS lifters with an improved oiling circuit and anti wear coating. I guess I will just apply assembly lube and toss them in. Should I expect some clatter upon initial startup while they pump up with oil?

 

Good call on replacing the lifters. I bought the same ones, they have a teflon-type coating on top. I was surprised how many of mine weren't actually working properly. If you squeeze the top and bottom of the lifter together the spring inside should actuate. Should spit some oil out the vent hole as well. After 70k only 8 of my 32 were still working.

 

Don't forget about the injectors and PCV. Less critical and easier than the work you've done so far though.

 

Not sure if the newer cams are softer but, I think Tasos said the 2014 models have more wear because they use the stiffer valve springs from the SLS which seems to increase wear over the older springs.

 

yeah, it was one of those things where even though i didn't want to spend the $600, it probably would have been in the back of my mind. Hopefully will be nice to know the top end of the motor will be solid for many more miles with proper oil changes and maintenance.

Realized I should order 2 new cam adjuster bolts and diamond washers even though I JUST torqued those on the passenegers side. Oh well, better safe than sorry. Lifters should be here today. Hoping to get all 32 swapped and get everything all timed up again tonight so tomorrow I can toss the covers on, top off the fluids and fire it up. Going to change the oil after its up to temperature.

 

Great. Can't wait to see the video.

 

You should be able to remove the cams with the adjusters still attached correct? wouldnt need new cam bolts and washers then.

 

I suppose you could, seems like it would be a nightmare getting the cam caps torqued down while ensuring the gears are meshing correctly. For $9 or so i just bought 2 new washers. Parts should be here Friday morning.

 

Ah yes that would be an issue. Good call. Thanks for sharing your project!

 

Despite the setbacks I'm looking forward to the Youtube content, been subscribed since you pulled the LS3 from the donor. Keep it up you've been killing it on the platform

 

Thanks man! I appreciate the kind words.

Been a week or so since an update. Had to wait for the lifters, and also broke one of the cam bridges because I torqued it down incorrectly, but I was able to locate a replacement and I think I have that issue solved.

Anyways....

32 OEM MB lifters arrived


Swapping out the drivers side





And then the passengers side


All back together with plenty of assembly lube, new diamond washers and new cam bolts.


Finished.


Started up the car and it sounded pretty good, lifters were definitly loud. Let it idle for 5 minutes or so, checked for leaks etc. Lifters quieted down a little bit, but were still making noise which was concerning. Took the car for a 5-10 minute drive and by the time I got back the motor was whisper quiet. Phew! Had no idea it would take 10+ minutes for the lifters to quiet down lol. The car maintained oil and coolant temps without issue.

Once it was nice and hot i dropped the oil and did an oil change with OEM MB filter and Mobil 1 0w-40 European formula since we are heading into the winter months here in NH. Car is running perfectly as of right now. No check engine light or anything. Will continue to drive it and update you guys as I go along.

Do I need to do a cam position relearn? Hesitant to rev the car out too far before I do that. Need to find a shop around here that can do that for me since apparently my $800 Autel scanner wont cut it.

Video should be up tomorrow!

 

This is how lifters are primed. INA uses generic photos but the document is referenced for the correct INA internal part no. which matches the stamping on the insides of the lifters for the M156.

 

Hey i see you're in NH.. did you purchase cam washers at Mercedes Benz of Portsmouth?? i had a gentleman come in for the 156 cam washers.. just curious hahaha

 

Thats me! Thanks for the help! I live right down the street so I frequently stop in to check out the inventory and cruise through the trade-in section just in case anything cool is there lol. I start and end the latest video at your dealership.

Video is up! Car has been running great all week.

 

What a great video!! if you ever need anything for that beast, give us a call and I'll be more than happy to help you out! Might be able to get a little discount now on parts

Matthew

 

Thanks man! I'll definitely hit you up in the future. Nice talking with you!