When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've been eyeing a set of KW DDC's as a possible next upgrade. BLK, I assume you've pretty much given up on streeting the car, but what coilovers do you run? Thanks to that awesome read of a thread above, it sounds like Ohlin's are coming out with a set of coilovers "soon" (TM) but I have no interest in lowering the car, esp with Houston roads, but i've heard this is a good upgrade generally.
Braking however i figured would benefit from a wider set of shoes up front, I'm honestly kind of surprised you're not pioneering something here yet. (or maybe just haven't created a new thread about it?)
I would also love to know the thoughts on this please.
Yes, the back is obviously, shamefully, narrow, but it's not like the fronts at ~245s are that much better. For the minor stuff I do, I'm more often wishing for more purchase up front generally.
Does the driving dynamic change that much when adding 20-30mm to the rear only? Is it better putting the costs into coilovers instead?
If the project costs generally hover around ~$1.5k for parts, $5-7k for painting, and ~$3k+ for wheels+ tires, are the costs that much different when touching the front end too?
Cheers,
Apart from the look, the driving dramatically changed for the better. I feel the car much more planted on fast turns.
Apart from the look, the driving dramatically changed for the better. I feel the car much more planted on fast turns.
Originally Posted by Boostaholic84
Agreed. Traction in 1st and 2nd gear is much improved also
This is great, thanks for the feedback!
For me, on hard stops though, our cars' brake balance is so far forward, i'm still always overloading the fronts first. (on either the stock 18's or 507's 19" rims) at 245.
This is where I would have thought time could be made up easily on the track (or in an emergency situation) since we can change Brake balance and when just stomping on the pedal.
Since you've both put in the costs to go wide rears, was it just for the acceleration aspect, or did either of you spec out the costs of going full widebody? (i.e. I'm curious if anyone has gotten full quotes vs rear-only).
I don't remember where, but the 2 kits that are full-body, the one out of Europe is actually the bad one, and the chinese alibaba is the "good" one. But at this point I've never done enough research to figure out what that means or go back and find where I hear that to verify.
(I think there was a YT video of the dark gray car darnwinpro uses as their press photos for the full kit, I dunno.)
This is great, thanks for the feedback!
For me, on hard stops though, our cars' brake balance is so far forward, i'm still always overloading the fronts first. (on either the stock 18's or 507's 19" rims) at 245.
This is where I would have thought time could be made up easily on the track (or in an emergency situation) since we can change Brake balance and when just stomping on the pedal.
Since you've both put in the costs to go wide rears, was it just for the acceleration aspect, or did either of you spec out the costs of going full widebody? (i.e. I'm curious if anyone has gotten full quotes vs rear-only).
I don't remember where, but the 2 kits that are full-body, the one out of Europe is actually the bad one, and the chinese alibaba is the "good" one. But at this point I've never done enough research to figure out what that means or go back and find where I hear that to verify.
(I think there was a YT video of the dark gray car darnwinpro uses as their press photos for the full kit, I dunno.)
I’m happy with the width of the front fenders, so I never looked into a full wide body. I wanted more traction, and a wider rear to enhance the look of the car.
Yes, the traction is night and day, I'm using potenza RE050, so not even cup2s, and when warm i get full traction in second gear, that was impossible B4(car tuned euro charged plus headers).
I was the original person to take the Moshammer flares and adapt them for the coupe. When I say adapt, I mean use the general line of the flare and then completely redesign it to fit the coupe, including making it a solid piece rather than where it splits in two on the 4 door.
This kit was then reversed and adapted to fit facelift 4 doors and wagons. It took around 4mths to perfect at Golding Barn so, you know when you’re buying this kit that it fits.
It has been fitted for the best part of 3-4yrs now and it is solid. I remember being told by haters at the time it would crack and fall off.
Anyway, it’s expensive but worth it to me; completely essential for supercharged power delivery but also before it was charged, it was just nice no to have such a lively rear end when not wanted. It perfectly complements chassis mods such as suspension and bracing. Tyre width will depend on your wheel widths and offsets, plus ride height. Currently I run some Mclaren spec wheels and 295 is my max, but a 305-315 would be possible with different wheels. Some others here in the UK run a 305 but their suspension is a lot higher than mine.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
