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Got them from Greg@Zac Motorsport out of Australia as a custom project (they do carbon race bike parts) but he will be working on getting them in production soon. They were $1200usd shipped to my door.
Originally Posted by RDO247
How are you finding the intakes?
what have you circled?
I like them! They make almost no increase in sound over stock with light throttle, but once you get around 1/3 throttle and above you can hear the turbos slurping air and the little bov’s going pssssshh. I left the plastic fitting on the bov so it might be why they aren’t as loud.
I circled where I placed and secured the air box sensors that I removed from the factory intakes.
Got them from Greg@Zac Motorsport out of Australia as a custom project (they do carbon race bike parts) but he will be working on getting them in production soon. They were $1200usd shipped to my door.
I like them! They make almost no increase in sound over stock with light throttle, but once you get around 1/3 throttle and above you can hear the turbos slurping air and the little bov’s going pssssshh. I left the plastic fitting on the bov so it might be why they aren’t as loud.
I circled where I placed and secured the air box sensors that I removed from the factory intakes.
Great to hear, they look awesome with those massive cones.
Gregs about an hour and a half away from where I live, we speak a fair bit and plan to catch up for a drive.
He does some pretty wicked stuff with his carbon fibre...
Ive been busy traveling weekly for work and really had just been driving the car, but my brake pad sensor warning indicator went off while driving a week ago and I’m tired of listening to squeaking brakes (and red/brown wheels from dust) so I ordered porterfield pads, Platz1 2 piece drilled floating rotors and Eurocharged Ecu tune with a handheld flasher. Parts should be coming in next week so I’ll update with pics and info as I have it.
Rotors arrived two days after ordering on Friday evening and I weighed/test fit them yesterday. I forgot to mention I’m doing the prototype fitment check for these rotors. On a side note, Mercedes really did it right with the caliper bolts on the side for easy access. The platz1 390mm rotors fit perfectly without issue and look way better than the Oem rotors. When I opened the box the platz1 rotors looked huge! They weighed slightly less than factory at 29.8lbs vs 31.2lbs on the 22k mile used rotor. I’m waiting for my brake pads to arrive and I’ll be doing the final install next weekend. In the meantime, here’s a few pics...
Rotors arrived two days after ordering on Friday evening and I weighed/test fit them yesterday. I forgot to mention I’m doing the prototype fitment check for these rotors. On a side note, Mercedes really did it right with the caliper bolts on the side for easy access. The platz1 390mm rotors fit perfectly without issue and look way better than the Oem rotors. When I opened the box the platz1 rotors looked huge! They weighed slightly less than factory at 29.8lbs vs 31.2lbs on the 22k mile used rotor. I’m waiting for my brake pads to arrive and I’ll be doing the final install next weekend. In the meantime, here’s a few pics...
They were $705 for the front set and $1300 for both front/rear rotors, but I’m not sure what their final pricing will be. I told them they have to have better pricing than brembo as that is their direct competition for those of us who upgrade to 2 piece floating rotors.
Finally got everything installed last weekend!
Eurocharged stage 2 tune seems a lot more peppy throughout the entire powerband and is more responsive with all throttle inputs. It has a bit more burble at idle but I can only notice it while I’m standing at the rear of the car. Wot is noticeably quicker than stock and I had open intakes already. Jerry replies promptly to al my emails and really seems to have the tune dialed.
Im also really happy with fitment, looks and performance of the rotors as well as the porterfield pads. Saved some weight all around (removed all 4 dust shields too) and really improved the exterior’s appearance. Pics were taken with car/wheels still dirty, but here’s a before and after...
Just ordered an Aem methanol injection kit with an additional nozzle so each bank gets sprayed. Going to use their boost referenced progressive controller and 1 gallon tank which will probably end up in the trunk unless I can fit it under the hood somewhere. I’ll post pics and info once I begin install.
Just ordered an Aem methanol injection kit with an additional nozzle so each bank gets sprayed. Going to use their boost referenced progressive controller and 1 gallon tank which will probably end up in the trunk unless I can fit it under the hood somewhere. I’ll post pics and info once I begin install.
I’d recommend a larger tank approximately 10 litres.
I have a 5.5 litre tank at the moment which only lasts an hour at the track.
Im having to carry an extra 5 litre in the boot so I don’t run out as my tune is meth dependant.
I don’t like the idea of carrying an extra can in the car in case there’s an accident or something.
Ive estimated for my car that 10 litres will be enough for the time I spend at the track and the trip home.
My custom tank is also mounted in the engine bay compartment and I’ve had custom steel braided lines fitted for piece of mind.
I’d recommend a larger tank approximately 10 litres.
I have a 5.5 litre tank at the moment which only lasts an hour at the track.
Im having to carry an extra 5 litre in the boot so I don’t run out as my tune is meth dependant.
I don’t like the idea of carrying an extra can in the car in case there’s an accident or something.
Ive estimated for my car that 10 litres will be enough for the time I spend at the track and the trip home.
My custom tank is also mounted in the engine bay compartment and I’ve had custom steel braided lines fitted for piece of mind.
Thanks for the input brotha. Are you using a 50/50 water/meth blend? Are you road racing or drag racing when burning over a gallon per hour? That’s a lot of fluid either way, but I may opt for a larger tank since it will last longer between fill-ups.
Thanks for the input brotha. Are you using a 50/50 water/meth blend? Are you road racing or drag racing when burning over a gallon per hour? That’s a lot of fluid either way, but I may opt for a larger tank since it will last longer between fill-ups.
Running 100% methanol through 2x 1000cc injectors with 860hp & 982nm on Dyno-Pak.
A night at the drags or an hour at happy laps which is similar to roll racing will exhaust my 5.5 litre tank.
I either have to fill up or drive home knowing there’s no meth left in the tank.
Running 100% methanol through 2x 1000cc injectors with 860hp & 982nm on Dyno-Pak.
A night at the drags or an hour at happy laps which is similar to roll racing will exhaust my 5.5 litre tank.
I either have to fill up or drive home knowing there’s no meth left in the tank.
Gotcha. I would highly recommend adding distilled water to the methanol as it will produce cooler iats and it won’t be flammable (clear flame with methanol). I did a bunch of datatlogging on my last meth setup and surprisingly 50/50 yielded the best iats with maximal timing.
Did you setup the meth system yourself? What did you use for a vacuum source? Also where did you install the nozzles? Poked around under the hood for a bit but couldn’t really see the I/c couplers that connect to the throttle body, which is where I plan on putting mine.
*Update*
Toyo r888r showed up yesterday so I yanked the wheels and brought them to my local tire store to install. They are noticeably wider the the Michelin ps4s in the exact same 285/30/20 sizing and after a short test drive I had light rubbing on the right rear when I drove over dips or bumps at speed. Not bad but kind of annoying since I didn’t increase tread width. I may roll my rear fender if it starts to show wear on the tires sidewall. I’ll put some miles on the tires today and test traction ASAP!
Gotcha. I would highly recommend adding distilled water to the methanol as it will produce cooler iats and it won’t be flammable (clear flame with methanol). I did a bunch of datatlogging on my last meth setup and surprisingly 50/50 yielded the best iats with maximal timing.
Did you setup the meth system yourself? What did you use for a vacuum source? Also where did you install the nozzles? Poked around under the hood for a bit but couldn’t really see the I/c couplers that connect to the throttle body, which is where I plan on putting mine.
I posted some pics up with my last post but deleted them cause I didn’t want to hijack your thread.
I wanted to fit injectors to throttle bodies as well but my turbos come with injector port in the compressor housing so utilised those as they were there.
My race shop installed my turbos and meth kit so I could tell you were they tapped into sorry.
So the r888r definite have way more grip than the ps4s! It dead hooks 2nd and feels like it could take even more power no prob. I only played with 1st gear a bit and it semi hooked/spun but still moved good being in 1st gear! For comparison the ps4s wouldn’t stand a chance wot even in second gear. Only issue is I am getting slight rubbing over bumps at speed because they are so wide for their size. Going to have to roll/pull my fenders at some point.
So the r888r definite have way more grip than the ps4s! It dead hooks 2nd and feels like it could take even more power no prob. I only played with 1st gear a bit and it semi hooked/spun but still moved good being in 1st gear! For comparison the ps4s wouldn’t stand a chance wot even in second gear. Only issue is I am getting slight rubbing over bumps at speed because they are so wide for their size. Going to have to roll/pull my fenders at some point.
Do you have a sedan? Im a little surprised that 285s are causing rubbing... at 25k kms im still waiting for my stock tires to give out and then plan on going the 275/305 route. Still torn between PS4S or r888r. Will prob get the Ps4S though since my car is a daily driver and ill be driving it rain or shine.
Will you be driving your car in wet conditions? Curious how the toyos hold up.
Do you have a sedan? Im a little surprised that 285s are causing rubbing... at 25k kms im still waiting for my stock tires to give out and then plan on going the 275/305 route. Still torn between PS4S or r888r. Will prob get the Ps4S though since my car is a daily driver and ill be driving it rain or shine.
Will you be driving your car in wet conditions? Curious how the toyos hold up.
Yea it’s a sedan lowered on h&r springs. I was surprised how wide the 285 Toyo’s are compared to the ps4s in the same size. If you want 2nd gear to dead hook, go with the r888r. I’ll be driving in the rain or shine with the Benz (although I’m buying a Gtr soon so that may change lol) and I think they will be fine if you’re careful. I’ve driven on drag radials in the rain so it doesn’t get much sketchier than that haha. The ps4s work well, they just can’t handle 2nd gear once you’re tuned and making more torque/boost. They did just fine in the rain last season though.
Yea it’s a sedan lowered on h&r springs. I was surprised how wide the 285 Toyo’s are compared to the ps4s in the same size. If you want 2nd gear to dead hook, go with the r888r. I’ll be driving in the rain or shine with the Benz (although I’m buying a Gtr soon so that may change lol) and I think they will be fine if you’re careful. I’ve driven on drag radials in the rain so it doesn’t get much sketchier than that haha. The ps4s work well, they just can’t handle 2nd gear once you’re tuned and making more torque/boost. They did just fine in the rain last season though.
for someone like me who is stock, im guessing the 305 ps4s in the back should be able to hook? best thing would be for the first gear to hook lol