Pedal still soft after bleeding
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 58
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2017 C63s AMG - 2011 CL65 AMG - 2015 G63 AMG
Pedal still soft after bleeding
Merry Christmas everyone,
The other day I was driving my car spiritedly and then I drove normally for about a mile to let everything cool. I then had to stop at a red light. After I got going again, the brakes were going to the floor, no pressure, barely working. I stopped and waited for everything to cool down more. When things cooled down all the way, the pedal worked again, but was noticeably more soft and squishy than before. I figured I boiled the fluid and needed to change it.
I bled my brakes using the power bleed method and 2 person method multiple times the past couple days, and I cannot get the brakes to work again. I know my methods are fine because I also bled by friends Camaro brakes and his are great.
Not sure what's going on. Any advice is appreciated. The brakes are super mushy and feel somewhat unsafe. When the car is off the pedal is pretty hard but with the booster active (car on) it feels pretty bad.
Rotors are pretty low but I don't think this would cause a soft pedal, right? What else could? Running raybestos st43 pads and racing brake 2pc rotors.
The other day I was driving my car spiritedly and then I drove normally for about a mile to let everything cool. I then had to stop at a red light. After I got going again, the brakes were going to the floor, no pressure, barely working. I stopped and waited for everything to cool down more. When things cooled down all the way, the pedal worked again, but was noticeably more soft and squishy than before. I figured I boiled the fluid and needed to change it.
I bled my brakes using the power bleed method and 2 person method multiple times the past couple days, and I cannot get the brakes to work again. I know my methods are fine because I also bled by friends Camaro brakes and his are great.
Not sure what's going on. Any advice is appreciated. The brakes are super mushy and feel somewhat unsafe. When the car is off the pedal is pretty hard but with the booster active (car on) it feels pretty bad.
Rotors are pretty low but I don't think this would cause a soft pedal, right? What else could? Running raybestos st43 pads and racing brake 2pc rotors.
Member
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 147
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W205 C63s 2015
What pressure are you running the pressure bleeder at?
WIS states 2 Bar and starting at the Right rear caliper-Left Rear-Right front-Left front
How much fluid did you bleed out as the whole system is only around 1.5L and it sounds like you def need to replace the factory fluid.
WIS states 2 Bar and starting at the Right rear caliper-Left Rear-Right front-Left front
How much fluid did you bleed out as the whole system is only around 1.5L and it sounds like you def need to replace the factory fluid.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 58
Likes: 6
2017 C63s AMG - 2011 CL65 AMG - 2015 G63 AMG
What pressure are you running the pressure bleeder at?
WIS states 2 Bar and starting at the Right rear caliper-Left Rear-Right front-Left front
How much fluid did you bleed out as the whole system is only around 1.5L and it sounds like you def need to replace the factory fluid.
WIS states 2 Bar and starting at the Right rear caliper-Left Rear-Right front-Left front
How much fluid did you bleed out as the whole system is only around 1.5L and it sounds like you def need to replace the factory fluid.
I had 4 1L bottles of Endless Rf650 in my garage. I bled so much through that once it ran super clear I stopped disposing of what came out and started to reuse some just to see if I could get the pedal feel back. I ordered some more to do another attempt but it is very very clean so far. There is no factory fluid left whatsoever.
I did all bleeds in that order. I ordered more rotors so I'll be able to see if the rear floating calipers have a stuck piston or something when I pull them apart but I honestly doubt it, car only has 20k miles and I've lubricated the slider pins twice in the rear.
Any other ideas before I try it at 30psi with fresh fluid?
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 424
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From: Sac, Ca
‘17 GT F1A E85 Monster ‘16 C63s
You either have air in the system or there’s a tear/puncture/split in one of your brake lines, possibly even one of the hard lines/fittings are damaged or loose. Are you arching the bleed tube upward off of the clippers nipple? That’s the only way you will truly see if there still are air bubbles in the fluid. Sounds like you have blown through more than enough fluid to clear the system and I don’t see the pistons sticking on a newer car. I also don’t think bleeding them at 30psi of pressure is going to make any difference. As a last resort you could always take it to the stealsrship and make them figure out why your ~90k car doesn’t have brakes that work properly.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 58
Likes: 6
2017 C63s AMG - 2011 CL65 AMG - 2015 G63 AMG
It doesn't seem like anything was or is leaking, so I doubt anything is torn but I will do more checking soon.
The dealer is an option however my service advisor did say I voided my warranty on the braking system after seeing my aftermarket pads and rotors so I'm SOL on getting it done through warranty and they also would just replace the fluid with more factory fluid and I'd just end up boiling it again.
So frustrating!
Edit: The catch can has a magnet, and I'm placing the can on the rotor face above the bleed nipple so the tube does go up above the bleeder but maybe I should arch the tube even higher to see if there is still air?
The dealer is an option however my service advisor did say I voided my warranty on the braking system after seeing my aftermarket pads and rotors so I'm SOL on getting it done through warranty and they also would just replace the fluid with more factory fluid and I'd just end up boiling it again.
So frustrating!
Edit: The catch can has a magnet, and I'm placing the can on the rotor face above the bleed nipple so the tube does go up above the bleeder but maybe I should arch the tube even higher to see if there is still air?
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 380
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C63 S AMG, Jaguar F Pace S
It doesn't seem like anything was or is leaking, so I doubt anything is torn but I will do more checking soon.
The dealer is an option however my service advisor did say I voided my warranty on the braking system after seeing my aftermarket pads and rotors so I'm SOL on getting it done through warranty and they also would just replace the fluid with more factory fluid and I'd just end up boiling it again.
So frustrating!
Edit: The catch can has a magnet, and I'm placing the can on the rotor face above the bleed nipple so the tube does go up above the bleeder but maybe I should arch the tube even higher to see if there is still air?
The dealer is an option however my service advisor did say I voided my warranty on the braking system after seeing my aftermarket pads and rotors so I'm SOL on getting it done through warranty and they also would just replace the fluid with more factory fluid and I'd just end up boiling it again.
So frustrating!
Edit: The catch can has a magnet, and I'm placing the can on the rotor face above the bleed nipple so the tube does go up above the bleeder but maybe I should arch the tube even higher to see if there is still air?
Push back on them.
