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I recently did mine as well and uncovered that the OEM spark plugs are the BOSCH 7434, which can be found for MUCH cheaper through your normal auto parts stores
Tackled the change last week. It's honestly not too big of a deal. Took about 3 hours with a few breaks for calls, lunch etc. Overall, it wasn't a terribly difficult job, just a lot of tight spaces and removing components to get access to the coil packs.
I'd say the most PITA step of the job was removing the coil packs. Pro tip: as you pull up, wiggle the coil pack to free the rubber "boots" from the plugs.
Went with 1 step colder HKS Racing Plugs, which I believe are Nissan GTR plugs. They were costly (about ~$450 for 8 of them) but you gotta pay to play with these big turbos. I gapped them to .026 at the recommendation of PTG.
I am running 93oct, PTG1000 turbos and catless downpipes on a Kirkland Hans tune. These are the original plugs at ~10k miles, with about ~2k of those miles being on big turbos. They look filthy as hell. I'm honestly shocked at the condition after 10k miles and no surprise that I had a misfire, with likely more to come in the near future.
I started to get a misfire code on cylinder 8 when I would kick-down and go WOT, the car would automatically downshift into 3rd, begin to pull for 2-3 seconds, throw a blinking CEL and go into limp mode. The car would idle really rough and shake. If I turned it off, it went away. It was strange because if I was doing WOT pulls in manual, I did not have the issue.
Because I am a 2017 PFL coupe, I have the old/outdated version of coil packs, so I decide to swap out the coil pack on cylinder 7 & 8 with the updated version, just in case. You can see the picture below, the difference of the outdated vs. updated version of the coil pack (old = left, new = right).
Because I am a 2017 PFL coupe, I have the old/outdated version of coil packs, so I decide to swap out the coil pack on cylinder 7 & 8 with the updated version, just in case. You can see the picture below, the difference of the outdated vs. updated version of the coil pack (old = left, new = right).
Where did you order the coil packs from and what did they run you?
Additionally, for those of you looking to gap any 12mm plugs for the M177, here's a tool I picked up (again, at the recommendation of PTG) to effectively & safely gap:
Tackled the change last week. It's honestly not too big of a deal. Took about 3 hours with a few breaks for calls, lunch etc. Overall, it wasn't a terribly difficult job, just a lot of tight spaces and removing components to get access to the coil packs.
I'd say the most PITA step of the job was removing the coil packs. Pro tip: as you pull up, wiggle the coil pack to free the rubber "boots" from the plugs.
Went with 1 step colder HKS Racing Plugs, which I believe are Nissan GTR plugs. They were costly (about ~$450 for 8 of them) but you gotta pay to play with these big turbos. I gapped them to .026 at the recommendation of PTG.
I am running 93oct, PTG1000 turbos and catless downpipes on a Kirkland Hans tune. These are the original plugs at ~10k miles, with about ~2k of those miles being on big turbos. They look filthy as hell. I'm honestly shocked at the condition after 10k miles and no surprise that I had a misfire, with likely more to come in the near future.
I started to get a misfire code on cylinder 8 when I would kick-down and go WOT, the car would automatically downshift into 3rd, begin to pull for 2-3 seconds, throw a blinking CEL and go into limp mode. The car would idle really rough and shake. If I turned it off, it went away. It was strange because if I was doing WOT pulls in manual, I did not have the issue.
Because I am a 2017 PFL coupe, I have the old/outdated version of coil packs, so I decide to swap out the coil pack on cylinder 7 & 8 with the updated version, just in case. You can see the picture below, the difference of the outdated vs. updated version of the coil pack (old = left, new = right).
@noremaC how does the car feel / run after the HKS 1-range colder plugs?
So I decided to tackle the spark plug change on my car tonight. How the hell did you all get the freaking coil packs off? I have all three bolts undone and they are wiggling around, but it is like someone is on the other end holding it affixed to the spark plug. I am about to lose my mind; I've never had a car where the coil packs were this difficult to remove for a simple spark plug change. The car is cold as I had it sitting in the garage. Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated.
So I decided to tackle the spark plug change on my car tonight. How the hell did you all get the freaking coil packs off? I have all three bolts undone and they are wiggling around, but it is like someone is on the other end holding it affixed to the spark plug. I am about to lose my mind; I've never had a car where the coil packs were this difficult to remove for a simple spark plug change. The car is cold as I had it sitting in the garage. Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated.
Fing pull lol they are a pain. You can also wedge a wrench under and use a screwdriver to pop up.
Fing pull lol they are a pain. You can also wedge a wrench under and use a screwdriver to pop up.
You ain't kidding. I was worried I was going to break them. I was finally able to start getting them out though by using some other items in the garage to assist. What a P.I.T.A.
You ain't kidding. I was worried I was going to break them. I was finally able to start getting them out though by using some other items in the garage to assist. What a P.I.T.A.
1000% this. I used a shoelace - wrapped it around the coil pack and ****ing YANKED on that **** til it came out. On two cylinders, the pack came out but the boot was still in.. that was fun.
What are the intervals for spark plug change? I think there's something off how my car builds boost after stage 2 tune. When i slam on the throttle (while rolling in 3rd) the car goes quick ,but the pull and G force doesn't increase until 1 sec or so (after 4k rpm). Is this just increased turbolag with the stage 2 tune?
Did you find the solution, because I have the same problem with a cut between 3500 and 4000 rpm and hesitations in the acceleration?
Did you find the solution, because I have the same problem with a cut between 3500 and 4000 rpm and hesitations in the acceleration?
Both of you sound like most likely something within the tuning itself.
Turbo lag doesn’t increase unless going to bigger turbos.
Could new factory or 1-range colder plugs help?…yes they could, but you are both most likely suffering from something within the tune.
Now if you have 10k+ miles post tune on plugs I’d absolutely change them.
Both of you sound like most likely something within the tuning itself.
Turbo lag doesn’t increase unless going to bigger turbos.
Could new factory or 1-range colder plugs help?…yes they could, but you are both most likely suffering from something within the tune.
Now if you have 10k+ miles post tune on plugs I’d absolutely change them.
Thank you for your opinion, I take note of it. it is 15K miles. It's something that has been going on for 2 months, I didn't have this type of problem before,
it grew continuously ... I have a stage 2 preparation with a carbon air box & removal of catalytic converter and the DPF. nothing has changed mechanically and electronically since. I will change in all the coils and spark plugs... I hope to have a result
Did you find the solution, because I have the same problem with a cut between 3500 and 4000 rpm and hesitations in the acceleration?
Originally Posted by Jerome NC
Thank you for your opinion, I take note of it. it is 15K miles. It's something that has been going on for 2 months, I didn't have this type of problem before,
it grew continuously ... I have a stage 2 preparation with a carbon air box & removal of catalytic converter and the DPF. nothing has changed mechanically and electronically since. I will change in all the coils and spark plugs... I hope to have a result
Anytime and happy to help! I avoid “opinions” I just share actual experiences I’ve had😁. Too many opinions based on zero experience 🤣
Tackled the change last week. It's honestly not too big of a deal. Took about 3 hours with a few breaks for calls, lunch etc. Overall, it wasn't a terribly difficult job, just a lot of tight spaces and removing components to get access to the coil packs.
I'd say the most PITA step of the job was removing the coil packs. Pro tip: as you pull up, wiggle the coil pack to free the rubber "boots" from the plugs.
Went with 1 step colder HKS Racing Plugs, which I believe are Nissan GTR plugs. They were costly (about ~$450 for 8 of them) but you gotta pay to play with these big turbos. I gapped them to .026 at the recommendation of PTG.
I am running 93oct, PTG1000 turbos and catless downpipes on a Kirkland Hans tune. These are the original plugs at ~10k miles, with about ~2k of those miles being on big turbos. They look filthy as hell. I'm honestly shocked at the condition after 10k miles and no surprise that I had a misfire, with likely more to come in the near future.
I started to get a misfire code on cylinder 8 when I would kick-down and go WOT, the car would automatically downshift into 3rd, begin to pull for 2-3 seconds, throw a blinking CEL and go into limp mode. The car would idle really rough and shake. If I turned it off, it went away. It was strange because if I was doing WOT pulls in manual, I did not have the issue.
Because I am a 2017 PFL coupe, I have the old/outdated version of coil packs, so I decide to swap out the coil pack on cylinder 7 & 8 with the updated version, just in case. You can see the picture below, the difference of the outdated vs. updated version of the coil pack (old = left, new = right).
2016 C63W
Thanks for the information on ignition coils.
I just ordered a set of ignition coils from ngk.com but unfortunately received ignition coils with the outdated part number. I am sending them back.
I installed new plugs 4,000 miles ago.
Then I recently installed Weistec Stage 1 Tune; get misfires under heavy and after heavy acceleration but no error codes. With Stage 1 Tune Weistec recommended to gap plugs 0.022-0.024. And new ignition coils.
For plugs I purchased a set of NGK 97566SILZKFR8F7S. Planning on gapping them 0.022.
.
Last edited by anwar_hamoude; Mar 11, 2022 at 09:14 AM.
Reason: typo
To my understanding the older versions were replaced due to reliability issues.
***For owners of M177***
.
That is correct. From what I have read some issues happened with soldering connectivity and internal components after several heat cycles. It's sporadic and doesn't always happen but can cause some misfire problems. I recently just replaced all mine with the new ones in my 2018 C205.
That is correct. From what I have read some issues happened with soldering connectivity and internal components after several heat cycles. It's sporadic and doesn't always happen but can cause some misfire problems. I recently just replaced all mine with the new ones in my 2018 C205.
Are we ready to replace ignition coils one more time!
Order I placed for ignition coils P/N: 177-906-42-02 was cancelled.
Apparently there's been another update P/N: 177-906-02-06.
Seems I am extremely lucky! I'll have the latest version of ignition coils.
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