Small paint chips can easily be touched up if done right. The brush with the thick nylon strands that comes in all of those OEM bottles is complete garbage. Not to mention the paint is too thick and will instantly "glop" on to anything you apply it to. Go to a craft shop, like Michael's and get several very, very fine brushes. Shake the touch up paint bottle and let some drip off the enclosed brush on to a glossy post card type mailer or equivalent. This will be the palette. Next, thin some of the color with lacquer thinner by dipping the brush in it and mixing on the palette. By thinning it, you have control of the thickness and flow and can place it better with small brushes. Should be a piece of cake to cover any chip with a semi steady hand. You can make it look almost perfect. No need to apply clear after that but you can if you like. Be careful and thin it properly if you do. My feeling is waxing after it has dried overnight will suffice. Been doing this for many years and it works great.

I've used a bit different approach for over 35 years (if color has clear-coat, see comments below):

• step 1 is to clean the chip and surrounding area thoroughly (I prefer to use an old toothbrush and 50/50 rubbing alcohol/water)
• use the "glop-on" brush in the touch-up paint bottle and apply a thick dab that deliberately encompasses the edges of the chip, and slightly beyond, as well as being too high, relative to the surrounding surface, when dry (on large chips, a few coats may be required to fill the center of the chip, waiting an hour or two between coats)
• when built up to the desired level, let the paint partially cure for 3-8 hours, depending upon temperature/etc., then take a white lint-free cloth that has a smooth surface (e.g., a pure cotton T-shirt rag, _not_ a microfiber cloth), apply a small smount of lacquer thinner to the rag and _very gently_ wipe the paint-chip "glop" with a small area of the rag that's tightly stretched over your finger ... the lacquer thinner will disolve the "not completely cured" touch-up paint and, if gentle, you can end up with a nice smooth surface that fills the chip (if you over-wipe, immediately add more touch-up and repeat the process)
• when satisfied with the wiped/leveled paint-chip repair, let the touch-up paint harden for a few days then gently buff and protect using wax or, even better, ceramic paint protection

I've been using this strategy since the early 1980s, including with one MBZ I drove for 27 years (and the paint still looked pristine). Mercedes enamel paint (i.e., not clear-coated) is not damaged by the lacquer thinner, though I do ensure the rag is only moist, not soaked, with thinner. I also had 2 1980s Mercedes that had clear-coat colors and my 2016 that is designo white and found that the clear-coats on the 1980 cars could be damaged by lacquer thinner but the 2016 designo paint is not. If the car has a clear-coat, be sure to test an inconspicuous area to determine whether lacquer thinner will disolve the paint.

Designo/clear-coated paint-chips are more challenging in that you need to also need to apply a clear-coat. For those, I overwipe the color/base then apply the clear as the top/final touch. If you drive on roads where rock-chips are plentiful, the enamel/non-clear-coat paints are your friends.

I have zero experience with the matte/flat paint colors (personally, I think they're ugly) but I'd exepect that this strategy would not work with those paints.