Burmester speakers upgrade
#26
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Ok.. I thought there was just something wrong with the stereo in my car lol. It has pretty minimal base and the sound isn't all that great, just sounds very treble heavy. Nothing I could do in the settings made it sound much better. I had a 2013 acura TL with tech package and that stereo was amazing by comparison.
#27
MBWorld Fanatic!
I tend to agree with you - the Burmester is not top notch but entirely sufficient for me and an upgrade over standard sound systems ...and I had the B&O, Harman Kardon, Mark Levinson and a few other "upgrade" systems in previous cars and none stood out to me. If you want top notch sound quality all of them don't cut it but its also not what I look for in a sports sedan with a rumbling V8. Also, you would need to think about what you listen to...compressed audio files will quickly be the limiting factor here.
#29
Senior Member
#30
Super Member
2017. I was actually going to have them look at it next service but after reading this thread I'm starting to think it's just normal.
#31
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My suspicions were correct. Amp is different in FL and Pre-FL.
FLhttps://www.mercedespartscenter.com/...Y4LWdhcw%3D%3D
Pre-FL. It says without premium but if you look at the list of part it replaces, those are definitely Burmester.
https://www.mercedespartscenter.com/...Y4LWdhcw%3D%3D
FLhttps://www.mercedespartscenter.com/...Y4LWdhcw%3D%3D
Pre-FL. It says without premium but if you look at the list of part it replaces, those are definitely Burmester.
https://www.mercedespartscenter.com/...Y4LWdhcw%3D%3D
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zachr (07-24-2020)
#32
I don’t understand the complaints about nonexistent bass unless they retuned the audio for FL. I think there’s plenty of bass for a stock system. Bass is not the problem, quality of mids and highs can improve. I really don’t think Burmester is trash at all but it can be improved.
Little history before anyone says that I don’t know what bass is. In car audio, I’ve had 2 12’s in my younger days then 10w7 and had 12w6 on my previous car. At home I am running dual SVS 16 ultra subs for my audio and HT. Nothing like bass dropping under 20hz and keeping up with the volume.....
Little history before anyone says that I don’t know what bass is. In car audio, I’ve had 2 12’s in my younger days then 10w7 and had 12w6 on my previous car. At home I am running dual SVS 16 ultra subs for my audio and HT. Nothing like bass dropping under 20hz and keeping up with the volume.....
#33
Senior Member
Thread Starter
#34
Super Member
My suspicions were correct. Amp is different in FL and Pre-FL.
FLhttps://www.mercedespartscenter.com/...Y4LWdhcw%3D%3D
Pre-FL. It says without premium but if you look at the list of part it replaces, those are definitely Burmester.
https://www.mercedespartscenter.com/...Y4LWdhcw%3D%3D
FLhttps://www.mercedespartscenter.com/...Y4LWdhcw%3D%3D
Pre-FL. It says without premium but if you look at the list of part it replaces, those are definitely Burmester.
https://www.mercedespartscenter.com/...Y4LWdhcw%3D%3D
I'd love a $450 upgraded OEM amp that would really improve the sound setup in the PFL C63....
#35
Senior Member
Thread Starter
#36
I drove a 2020 before I picked up my 17 and the audio quality was night and day difference. The prefl is one of flattest, thinnest sounding systems I've ever heard and never use it. It's going to get a complete overhaul.
#37
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Burmester was really boomy at first but after use it settled down and became fairly smooth. With that said, I am probably going to upgrade it. I’ve already installed a subwoofer, JL 12w6v3 with JL HD 750/1. Replacing all speakers soon along with Audison AP F8.9 bit.
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FlashA4 (03-03-2021)
#40
Junior Member
I am admittedly extremely particular when it comes to audio, but put me in the camp that thinks the Burmester sounds terrible. Thinking about the system it comes down to (at least) the stock design in more than one respect: 1. The tweeters are the doors and so aren't far enough forward in the car, making it challenging to get the soundstage up and forward, 2. There are too many of those 4" midranges vs. the rest of the speaker complement, which creates a natural imbalance and 3. Most importantly - the front woofers are trying to do double-duty as subs and mid-woofers and are suffer from poor placement, with the result being they fail at everything. Combined with less than high-quality drivers, this sets up an imbalanced system that struggles to properly generate both low bass and high/midbass and instead is shrill from too much emphasis from the 4" mids. It is really unfortunate as to me this all stems from a two design choices made by MB - to put the front woofers in the footwells instead of shaping the doors with 6 1/2" woofer pods as so many other carmakers do, as well as not making room for the tweeters in either the A-pillars or the dash. Last, they should have put a sub somewhere in the trunk area, even if an 8" that doesn't take up much space.
Since I'm intending to keep my car for a long time, I'm putiting my money where my mouth is and redoing almost the entire system. In brief, using Morel Limited Edition 3-way components for the front stage, with tweeters in custom A-pillar pods, mids in the stock door location and rebuilding the doors to include pods for the woofers. Leaving the rear unchanged, just for fill. Using a single 10" Morel subwoofer in the forward right side of the trunk, then if it isn't enough will add a second on the left side. Amplification is Audison, all run through a processor, with two batteries replacing the single MB battery for added power buffer. The build is part-way done - pics attached. If anyone is contemplating a full system like this and is in CT I'm happy to show it once done.
Since I'm intending to keep my car for a long time, I'm putiting my money where my mouth is and redoing almost the entire system. In brief, using Morel Limited Edition 3-way components for the front stage, with tweeters in custom A-pillar pods, mids in the stock door location and rebuilding the doors to include pods for the woofers. Leaving the rear unchanged, just for fill. Using a single 10" Morel subwoofer in the forward right side of the trunk, then if it isn't enough will add a second on the left side. Amplification is Audison, all run through a processor, with two batteries replacing the single MB battery for added power buffer. The build is part-way done - pics attached. If anyone is contemplating a full system like this and is in CT I'm happy to show it once done.
The following 2 users liked this post by ABuds:
Cylinder Head (03-03-2021),
deftronix (07-27-2020)
#41
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I am admittedly extremely particular when it comes to audio, but put me in the camp that thinks the Burmester sounds terrible. Thinking about the system it comes down to (at least) the stock design in more than one respect: 1. The tweeters are the doors and so aren't far enough forward in the car, making it challenging to get the soundstage up and forward, 2. There are too many of those 4" midranges vs. the rest of the speaker complement, which creates a natural imbalance and 3. Most importantly - the front woofers are trying to do double-duty as subs and mid-woofers and are suffer from poor placement, with the result being they fail at everything. Combined with less than high-quality drivers, this sets up an imbalanced system that struggles to properly generate both low bass and high/midbass and instead is shrill from too much emphasis from the 4" mids. It is really unfortunate as to me this all stems from a two design choices made by MB - to put the front woofers in the footwells instead of shaping the doors with 6 1/2" woofer pods as so many other carmakers do, as well as not making room for the tweeters in either the A-pillars or the dash. Last, they should have put a sub somewhere in the trunk area, even if an 8" that doesn't take up much space.
Since I'm intending to keep my car for a long time, I'm putiting my money where my mouth is and redoing almost the entire system. In brief, using Morel Limited Edition 3-way components for the front stage, with tweeters in custom A-pillar pods, mids in the stock door location and rebuilding the doors to include pods for the woofers. Leaving the rear unchanged, just for fill. Using a single 10" Morel subwoofer in the forward right side of the trunk, then if it isn't enough will add a second on the left side. Amplification is Audison, all run through a processor, with two batteries replacing the single MB battery for added power buffer. The build is part-way done - pics attached. If anyone is contemplating a full system like this and is in CT I'm happy to show it once done.
Since I'm intending to keep my car for a long time, I'm putiting my money where my mouth is and redoing almost the entire system. In brief, using Morel Limited Edition 3-way components for the front stage, with tweeters in custom A-pillar pods, mids in the stock door location and rebuilding the doors to include pods for the woofers. Leaving the rear unchanged, just for fill. Using a single 10" Morel subwoofer in the forward right side of the trunk, then if it isn't enough will add a second on the left side. Amplification is Audison, all run through a processor, with two batteries replacing the single MB battery for added power buffer. The build is part-way done - pics attached. If anyone is contemplating a full system like this and is in CT I'm happy to show it once done.
#42
Junior Member
I've been quite impressed with the Burmeister in my 2019 coupe overall. I came from an E92 with the Harman Kardon system, which I really loved - it was very well balanced with a great bass feel, and had a multiband EQ for fine-tuning. I do agree that the sound from this system is pretty boomy, which I'm not a huge fan of. The other thing I've noticed is that the lowest of lows are coming up a little short - it feels like the system is compensating for lack of sub-bass by producing boomy bass. Are there any settings or less-involved tweaks that can help?
#43
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I've been quite impressed with the Burmeister in my 2019 coupe overall. I came from an E92 with the Harman Kardon system, which I really loved - it was very well balanced with a great bass feel, and had a multiband EQ for fine-tuning. I do agree that the sound from this system is pretty boomy, which I'm not a huge fan of. The other thing I've noticed is that the lowest of lows are coming up a little short - it feels like the system is compensating for lack of sub-bass by producing boomy bass. Are there any settings or less-involved tweaks that can help?
#45
Junior Member
No sound yet - still being worked on. Probably another couple of weeks.
#46
Super Member
So there’s 2 amps I see for FL. 213-900-90-20 and 213-900-27-29. Need to verify what the difference is. PFL amp is 222-900-06-18-64.
I'm assuming the rest of the setup is the same? Speakers, etc?
#47
I am currently in the process of upgrading my speakers on my 2020 coupe. I decided to go with the audiotec fischer Match speakers instead of going for various higher end speakers (not that the Match speakers are particularly cheap). I chose this route because they are essentially made to fit our car without any cutting/modifying of the current speaker mounts. I replaced the door speakers/tweeters, the footwell subwoofers and the center speaker and replaced the stock amp with the Match Up7 DSP. Did not throw a subwoofer into the trunk yet, but may end up doing so later on.
Finally, I also used the NavTV ZenM module. The last part is where I've run into issues - first day coming home from the audio installer, speakers sounded great, but within 24 hours I started my car and NO audio. When I would turn the volume, no indicator of the volume level would come up on the screen. After turning off my car and letting it go to sleep then turning it back on, it worked. Brought it back into the audio installer and they said they think they needed to upgrade the software on the ZenM, so they did and I went home with speakers working. Soon after, the same thing happened - would turn the car on with no audio (carplay, radio, xm, etc.) and a new thing started happening where the car would start with audio on but then quickly stop working (within a couple minutes of driving). But also would sometimes work completely fine for long drives.
I just got back from dropping my car off at the audio installer. I'm obviously very frustrated in the situation, but they had a NavTV rep come out and they are currently working on my car to try to figure out the issue. They said that other C63s and a few Audi models have been experiencing the same thing recently - they think it has something to do with the voltage dropping for some reason. They're running tests, so hopefully they will have it all figured out today and I can update those who are interested in learning more. Fingers crossed. If this doesn't work, I'm going back to stock and getting a full refund (which still wouldn't fully compensate me for all of this headache).
Finally, I also used the NavTV ZenM module. The last part is where I've run into issues - first day coming home from the audio installer, speakers sounded great, but within 24 hours I started my car and NO audio. When I would turn the volume, no indicator of the volume level would come up on the screen. After turning off my car and letting it go to sleep then turning it back on, it worked. Brought it back into the audio installer and they said they think they needed to upgrade the software on the ZenM, so they did and I went home with speakers working. Soon after, the same thing happened - would turn the car on with no audio (carplay, radio, xm, etc.) and a new thing started happening where the car would start with audio on but then quickly stop working (within a couple minutes of driving). But also would sometimes work completely fine for long drives.
I just got back from dropping my car off at the audio installer. I'm obviously very frustrated in the situation, but they had a NavTV rep come out and they are currently working on my car to try to figure out the issue. They said that other C63s and a few Audi models have been experiencing the same thing recently - they think it has something to do with the voltage dropping for some reason. They're running tests, so hopefully they will have it all figured out today and I can update those who are interested in learning more. Fingers crossed. If this doesn't work, I'm going back to stock and getting a full refund (which still wouldn't fully compensate me for all of this headache).
Thanks
#48
Senior Member
How do you figure?
If you are looking for that make your trunk rattle nonsense then I would say the systems isn't trash.
You Just need to swap out the speakers and replace with a trash bass system.
AMG C63 stock systems = AMG C63 stock systems
AMG C63 system pulled out = Ricer !
Dont be a Ricer
Disclaimer! once you tear the system out , me and you are no longer friends lol
lets please stop lowering the value that these cars come so high with.
If you are looking for that make your trunk rattle nonsense then I would say the systems isn't trash.
You Just need to swap out the speakers and replace with a trash bass system.
AMG C63 stock systems = AMG C63 stock systems
AMG C63 system pulled out = Ricer !
Dont be a Ricer
Disclaimer! once you tear the system out , me and you are no longer friends lol
lets please stop lowering the value that these cars come so high with.
#49
Member
Bigger Amp for Subs
You wouldn't believe how much difference it makes adding an aftermarket Sub Amp to the factory Burmester Subwoofers. Considering I have a high end high powered aftermarket system in my Yukon and know what sound quality and power sound like I can still say wow, it sounds soooo much better.
I initially had picked up a Cerwin Vega VPAS 12 Powered Subwoofer to fit in the trunk. Literally the day I got it I was reading where someone had connected a Sub amp to the factory subs in the foot well. So I had a PPI 1300.1 sitting around from an old build and decided to give it a shot. DAY & NIGHT!! Drove it for a few days and then swapped in the Cerwin Vega. It sounded good too. Deeper base, but the sound imaging is so much better coming from the front foot well than the trunk. So plan is to use the Cerwin Vega as a subwoofer and the Burmester subs as a mid bass. The rest of the speakers sound ok. I mean there is enough power to keep up with the Burmester subs, they just sound a little flat. So as this thread talks about speaker replacement, that'll be the next step.
If you guys do anything, add a Sub amp with a few hundred watts and trust me when I say it makes a big difference.
I initially had picked up a Cerwin Vega VPAS 12 Powered Subwoofer to fit in the trunk. Literally the day I got it I was reading where someone had connected a Sub amp to the factory subs in the foot well. So I had a PPI 1300.1 sitting around from an old build and decided to give it a shot. DAY & NIGHT!! Drove it for a few days and then swapped in the Cerwin Vega. It sounded good too. Deeper base, but the sound imaging is so much better coming from the front foot well than the trunk. So plan is to use the Cerwin Vega as a subwoofer and the Burmester subs as a mid bass. The rest of the speakers sound ok. I mean there is enough power to keep up with the Burmester subs, they just sound a little flat. So as this thread talks about speaker replacement, that'll be the next step.
If you guys do anything, add a Sub amp with a few hundred watts and trust me when I say it makes a big difference.
#50
MBWorld Fanatic!
You wouldn't believe how much difference it makes adding an aftermarket Sub Amp to the factory Burmester Subwoofers. Considering I have a high end high powered aftermarket system in my Yukon and know what sound quality and power sound like I can still say wow, it sounds soooo much better.
I initially had picked up a Cerwin Vega VPAS 12 Powered Subwoofer to fit in the trunk. Literally the day I got it I was reading where someone had connected a Sub amp to the factory subs in the foot well. So I had a PPI 1300.1 sitting around from an old build and decided to give it a shot. DAY & NIGHT!! Drove it for a few days and then swapped in the Cerwin Vega. It sounded good too. Deeper base, but the sound imaging is so much better coming from the front foot well than the trunk. So plan is to use the Cerwin Vega as a subwoofer and the Burmester subs as a mid bass. The rest of the speakers sound ok. I mean there is enough power to keep up with the Burmester subs, they just sound a little flat. So as this thread talks about speaker replacement, that'll be the next step.
If you guys do anything, add a Sub amp with a few hundred watts and trust me when I say it makes a big difference.
I initially had picked up a Cerwin Vega VPAS 12 Powered Subwoofer to fit in the trunk. Literally the day I got it I was reading where someone had connected a Sub amp to the factory subs in the foot well. So I had a PPI 1300.1 sitting around from an old build and decided to give it a shot. DAY & NIGHT!! Drove it for a few days and then swapped in the Cerwin Vega. It sounded good too. Deeper base, but the sound imaging is so much better coming from the front foot well than the trunk. So plan is to use the Cerwin Vega as a subwoofer and the Burmester subs as a mid bass. The rest of the speakers sound ok. I mean there is enough power to keep up with the Burmester subs, they just sound a little flat. So as this thread talks about speaker replacement, that'll be the next step.
If you guys do anything, add a Sub amp with a few hundred watts and trust me when I say it makes a big difference.