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Old 06-12-2020, 06:17 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by AMGC
. Both of my M156’s had me nervous to really get on them all the time driving due to the horrible cam tensioner design that causes the lifters to get loud sometimes to the point where I would start to get anxious.
LOL the notorious tick! During my two years of ownership on a 2012 c63 with super low mileage I had 3-4 occasions where I started the car cold and it had a very very loud tick that sounded like I had lifter problems. It would always go away right as the oil warmed up and was told it was pretty normal for that motor. Very unnerving.
Old 06-18-2020, 04:49 AM
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Originally Posted by ShaneN.
LOL the notorious tick! During my two years of ownership on a 2012 c63 with super low mileage I had 3-4 occasions where I started the car cold and it had a very very loud tick that sounded like I had lifter problems. It would always go away right as the oil warmed up and was told it was pretty normal for that motor. Very unnerving.
Don't our cars also have ticking sound? I never owned a w204 c63 lol but my 17' C63 S has ticking sounds and the dealer said its normal.
Old 08-24-2020, 07:28 PM
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Any long term concerns or engine concerns?

Are there any long term concerns with the c63? Was looking at a 2020 base c63 or demo 2018 c63s. When I was researching e63 wagons from 2017/2018 there were posts about a not insignificant number of engines being lemon lawed. Isn't this essentially the same motor? Any other pricey bits to be concerned about such as the tranny? Thanks
Old 08-25-2020, 03:34 AM
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Reading through many pages looks like the engine itself is pretty reliable? Main issues seem to be unprotected radiator getting damaged, coil packs, and start/stop cutting power? Has anyone fitted a mesh screen for the radiators? I know that's gonna cut some airflow but not sure if I feel comfortable with tiny pebbles causing $1800 in repairs.
Old 08-25-2020, 11:34 AM
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Mods please merge this topic with this this one. Thanks.
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Old 08-25-2020, 11:44 AM
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I'd be mostly concerned with the under hood electronics. All the various sensors that are exposed to very high heat, over time they will fail. Not a matter of if, but when. Take the MAP sensor for example - lot's of people in the last year have been getting the one on top of the intercooler(s) replaced, myself included and I only have 15k miles. The M177 is extremely stout, and I wouldn't be concerned with internal issues with the engine itself. But the sensors feeding it data... not so much confidence in their longevity. Another sticking point is the transmission as they're known to slip under high torque when tuned beyond stock turbos.
Old 08-25-2020, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by AlexZTuned
I'd be mostly concerned with the under hood electronics. All the various sensors that are exposed to very high heat, over time they will fail. Not a matter of if, but when. Take the MAP sensor for example - lot's of people in the last year have been getting the one on top of the intercooler(s) replaced, myself included and I only have 15k miles. The M177 is extremely stout, and I wouldn't be concerned with internal issues with the engine itself. But the sensors feeding it data... not so much confidence in their longevity. Another sticking point is the transmission as they're known to slip under high torque when tuned beyond stock turbos.
I won't be tuning. I'm assuming it shouldn't be problematic to get MAP sensors down the road since there are so many of these m177 engines built? Thanks
Old 08-25-2020, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by dennis chang
I won't be tuning. I'm assuming it shouldn't be problematic to get MAP sensors down the road since there are so many of these m177 engines built? Thanks
MAP sensors are cheap, it’s the annoyance of having to take everything apart to install a simple part. The MAP sensor on each of the IC’s are a pain, requires partial removal of the intercooler - I’d say 2-3 hours labor.
Old 08-25-2020, 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimmy_c63s
Mods please merge this topic with this this one. Thanks.
Threads merged...
Old 08-25-2020, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by AlexZTuned
I'd be mostly concerned with the under hood electronics. All the various sensors that are exposed to very high heat, over time they will fail. Not a matter of if, but when. Take the MAP sensor for example - lot's of people in the last year have been getting the one on top of the intercooler(s) replaced, myself included and I only have 15k miles. The M177 is extremely stout, and I wouldn't be concerned with internal issues with the engine itself. But the sensors feeding it data... not so much confidence in their longevity. Another sticking point is the transmission as they're known to slip under high torque when tuned beyond stock turbos.
this is the reason why i’m planning on wrapping all the plastic and wiring with heal shield. I always do a 20 min cool down after driving hard and open the hood once i’m home to let out all that heat
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Old 08-26-2020, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by koifysh
this is the reason why i’m planning on wrapping all the plastic and wiring with heal shield. I always do a 20 min cool down after driving hard and open the hood once i’m home to let out all that heat
Living in Texas, I always pop the hood in my garage to let the heat escape after spirited driving (rather than bake the electronics in a convection oven).
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Old 08-26-2020, 11:24 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by koifysh
I always do a 20 min cool down after driving hard and open the hood once i’m home to let out all that heat
Originally Posted by AlexZTuned
Living in Texas, I always pop the hood in my garage to let the heat escape after spirited driving (rather than bake the electronics in a convection oven).
Not a bad idea guys...I live in AZ where we broke the record this year for the most days over 110 degrees. I usually do not push the car hard during this time of the year but no matter what it is still hot out. I have been impressed where the oil temps have stayed even driving around in 114 degree weather but even so sometimes when I get home and back into the garage the fans kick on. But I do like that idea of opening the hood...I used to do that with my Hellcat to help cool the SC and forgot about that. This is what I love about these forums...great info!

Note: I have Weistec catless DP's, BMC filters and a Weistec Stage 2 tune. Car has 22K miles but I have only been tuned for 3K miles.
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Old 08-26-2020, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by W205-S
But I do like that idea of opening the hood...I used to do that with my Hellcat to help cool the SC and forgot about that. This is what I love about these forums...great info!
Same here brother! I use to do this too back in my younger days (early 2000's) when "JDM" cars were in and I had a Lancer EVO 7. I totally forgot about this until now haha. Good idea 👍

Winter is just around the corner for you in AZ so yours will get all the nice cool air ❄
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Old 08-26-2020, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimmy_c63s
Same here brother! I use to do this too back in my younger days (early 2000's) when "JDM" cars were in and I had a Lancer EVO 7. I totally forgot about this until now haha. Good idea 👍
LOL...hey man what's up. I hear you and I also remember on the older JDM turbo cars if you had been out beating on it...it would behoove you to drive around easy to let the turbo's cool before shutting it off for the night. It has gotten better with these fans that will kick on after you shut off the car but popping the hood would help with the issues discussed in this forum for sure.

Originally Posted by Jimmy_c63s
Winter is just around the corner for you in AZ so yours will get all the nice cool air ❄
Yes Sir! Looks like even next week we may dip below 100 degrees...whew! I may need to wear a jacket...LMAO

And No Fly Zone (1/2 mile racing) announced it is coming here in late October. Time to let the Turbos breath some nice cool air and run hard...Can't Wait!!!
Old 08-26-2020, 01:00 PM
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C63 with tune is my DD, I do 40 000km/year, all weather, daily highway 150+MPH... no oil consumption, nothing.. I have nearly 100 000kms now, planning to keep it 2-3 more years

lets see
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Old 08-26-2020, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by koifysh
this is the reason why i’m planning on wrapping all the plastic and wiring with heal shield. I always do a 20 min cool down after driving hard and open the hood once i’m home to let out all that heat
What do you guys use as a guideline to see if the car needs the hood opened to let out some heat? I haven't driven my car "hard" yet but what would a good rule of thumb? Thanks!
Old 08-26-2020, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by notabenex
C63 with tune is my DD, I do 40 000km/year, all weather, daily highway 150+MPH... no oil consumption, nothing.. I have nearly 100 000kms now, planning to keep it 2-3 more years
Very good to hear...what year is your C63 and what mods do you have...or is it just a tune?
Old 08-26-2020, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by W205-S
LOL...hey man what's up. I hear you and I also remember on the older JDM turbo cars if you had been out beating on it...it would behoove you to drive around easy to let the turbo's cool before shutting it off for the night. It has gotten better with these fans that will kick on after you shut off the car but popping the hood would help with the issues discussed in this forum for sure.
I still remember the Blitz turbo timer I had in my 03' IS300 in the early 2000's. I'd get strange looks from folks whenever I'd leave my car running and just walk away from my car and go into the grocery store. I can't count how many people told me "You left your car running!" - had the turbo timer set for 2 minutes on my 2JZ-GE single turbo setup 😅
Old 08-26-2020, 02:43 PM
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I don't see the need to open the hood on this car. If the engine and turbos are hot, the fans will run for several minutes and blow out most of the heat. You can feel it just standing next to the car and how the air gets cooler and cooler. I wait with closing my garage door until the fans stop, so all the heat gets blown out instead of trapping it in the garage. My previous 2013 RS5 was much worse with heat. It ran the fans for a little bit, too, but it literally turned my garage into a sauna from all the residual heat. I had a couple of cooling hoses that clearly got brittle from the heat after a few years , but honestly with the C63 after I let the fans blow out the hot air, the residual heat doesn't seem to be a big deal. My really hard drives are in the remote canyons, so the 1+ hour highway drive home serves as the cool-down lap so to speak.
Old 08-26-2020, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by superswiss
I don't see the need to open the hood on this car. If the engine and turbos are hot, the fans will run for several minutes and blow out most of the heat. You can feel it just standing next to the car and how the air gets cooler and cooler. I wait with closing my garage door until the fans stop, so all the heat gets blown out instead of trapping it in the garage. My previous 2013 RS5 was much worse with heat. It ran the fans for a little bit, too, but it literally turned my garage into a sauna from all the residual heat. I had a couple of cooling hoses that clearly got brittle from the heat after a few years , but honestly with the C63 after I let the fans blow out the hot air, the residual heat doesn't seem to be a big deal. My really hard drives are in the remote canyons, so the 1+ hour highway drive home serves as the cool-down lap so to speak.
Gotcha. I am located in SoCal and lately the temperature here has been on the higher side for me, tho I am sure it's nowhere near as high as the temp other states experiences, but I wanted to ensure I am not unintentionally causing any unnecessary heat built up due to the recent abnormally hot days here. The residual heat hasn't been horrible for me too, but I haven't had a good opportunity to put the car through its paces yet.
Old 08-26-2020, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Toothles5
Gotcha. I am located in SoCal and lately the temperature here has been on the higher side for me, tho I am sure it's nowhere near as high as the temp other states experiences, but I wanted to ensure I am not unintentionally causing any unnecessary heat built up due to the recent abnormally hot days here. The residual heat hasn't been horrible for me too, but I haven't had a good opportunity to put the car through its paces yet.
Also, after driving the car really hard, there are other parts that need to be cooled down besides the engine. Specifically brakes and tires. If you haven't seen the front tire temperatures show red or at least orange in the TPMS display then you haven't driven the car hard yet. After a good run in the canyons at least one of my front tires is in the red, partly from the heat of the brakes, and it takes several miles for it all to cool down. At the AMG Driving Academy they made us manually release the parking brake every time we got out of the cars, so the pads don't imprint on the rear rotors and we left the engines running to keep the fluids circulating. After a quick spirited drive before coming home I often leave the car idle for a bit once I pull into my garage before turning it off for the same reason to let the oil circulate a bit more, and if the brakes are still kinda hot, I release the parking brake.

Last edited by superswiss; 08-26-2020 at 04:40 PM.
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Old 08-26-2020, 08:54 PM
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What can lead to the car being super fast after tuning it but now car feels slow like stock? I can hear the intake like its a bottle neck now.
Old 08-27-2020, 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by skratch77
What can lead to the car being super fast after tuning it but now car feels slow like stock? I can hear the intake like its a bottle neck now.
Boost leak or soft limp mode.
Soft limp is the sh*t one because it won't throw a code at all and is triggered when your battery is run down eg. leaving the door open for a very long time during a detail etc.

The only way you can tell if it's in this mode is if your engine display is not hitting 500HP.

Is yours reaching 500HP (and over) on your command display?

PS: More info on it here.
Old 08-27-2020, 03:30 AM
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How do you manually release the rear parking brake ?


Originally Posted by superswiss
Also, after driving the car really hard, there are other parts that need to be cooled down besides the engine. Specifically brakes and tires. If you haven't seen the front tire temperatures show red or at least orange in the TPMS display then you haven't driven the car hard yet. After a good run in the canyons at least one of my front tires is in the red, partly from the heat of the brakes, and it takes several miles for it all to cool down. At the AMG Driving Academy they made us manually release the parking brake every time we got out of the cars, so the pads don't imprint on the rear rotors and we left the engines running to keep the fluids circulating. After a quick spirited drive before coming home I often leave the car idle for a bit once I pull into my garage before turning it off for the same reason to let the oil circulate a bit more, and if the brakes are still kinda hot, I release the parking brake.
Old 08-27-2020, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by C3504matic
How do you manually release the rear parking brake ?
After you put the car in Park it automatically applies the parking brake. Use the park button to release manually.


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