Anyone install these on their stock intakes?
curious if you've had any error codes or sensor issues?

Thanks for any help you can provide

 

I use the K&N filters, which came with my Gruppe M Ram Intake (same filter box as OEM) - no issues, no CEL, no nothing. Not sure why it would either.

 

I just replaced my used Alpha filters with a fresh set. They’re dry, so no issues with oil residue. And, they’re open all around.

 

I put a pair on a couple of weeks ago. No issues what so ever. Haven’t really noticed any gains but I just like the ability to be able to wash and re-oil them.

 

I have them myself and no issues, but I’ve always wondered what the oiling does besides messing with people’s MAF sensors (not on our cars, but others) because they often get over-oiled after cleaning.

 

.. ​​​"which investigated the high failure rates of modern MAF sensors. Several factors where involved which revealed what many have suspected all along.

Higher air flow capability with the K&N is the result of larger pores in the filter media to offset the smaller total area when compared to any OEM filter. Oil is used to help trap the dirt when it comes in contact with the filter media. One of the aspects of this design allows what is referred to as "Tracking" where certain regions of the filter media as a result of internal air box flow patterns directs particles to specific regions of the filter more than others. What occurs next is those regions lose the oil saturation to the increased dirt loading allowing particles in the 90 micron range to pass through the media since there is no longer any more residual oil in the local pores.

Oil migration. Oil migration occurs when the motor is in warm climates and/or operating at high engine speeds where the volume of air passing accross the filter carries small amounts of oil into the air stream post filter which is now entering the motor.

Particles less than 90 microns... Pull a hair out of your head and push it through the filter media, if it passes through you have a filter with pores GREATER than 100 Microns in size! This is the primary issue with MAF sensors. MAF sensors rely on filtration quality that captures 95% of all particles greater in size than 15 microns. Ideally 10 micron capability would result in longer life but now the physical size of the filter is increased to offset the fine fitlering capability when using conventional or synthetic fibers in an "Un-Oiled" air filter.






MAF air flow sensor design. MAF sensors use micrscopic heating elements placed on a circuit board. The heating element provides a constant rise in temperature to provide a known condition for the ECU to calculate air flow. On the leading edge of the MAF sensor is a temperature sensor which measures the temperature of the air passing over the leading edge, this temperature returns a value to the ECU. As the air passes over the heated portion of the MAF sensor heat is transmitted to the air stream thus heating it. As the air passes accross the back portion of the sensor a second temperature reading is taken. Higher flow rates result in lower temperature rise, lower flow rates result in higher temperature rises.

Another aspect of the MAF sensor is static build up on the leading edge of the sensor element. This static charge causes small particles of dirt and debris to adhere to the elements leading edge distorting the laminar flow characteristics of the sensor throwing off the temeperature readings take accross the elements surface. Over time rotors form accross the back side of the build up depositing oil, dirt and anything else that is in the slip stream directly onto the heating elements surface. What happens next is that the oil/dirt or any combination of the two insulates the heating element causing it to overheat and short out. The result is a complete loss of data to the ECU causing it to revert to default values stored as a limp home function.

The precursor to the failure is often a reduction in peformance as a result of inaccurate thermal readings accross the sensor plate. As the dirt accumulates power typically drops off until the heating element fails.
















OEM air filters believe it or not out perform K&N in all aspects. This is easily done by using filter media which has much smaller pore size (5 microns on "average") this allows typical filtration to hit the 10-15 micron range with the 95% effective range. However the fine filtration capabily results in more restriction, the restriction is offset by increasing the depth and number of the pleats the media uses. The biggest advantage to this is that the OEM filters are able to go 50,000-100,000 miles between changes WITHOUT resulting in any increases of restriction or worse yet ALLOWING MORE DIRT TO GET IN THE MOTOR! OEM filters REGARDLESS of miles or time in use perform as well or BETTER the more they are used again up until the reach the maximum restriction point (15" or 25" WC).

Most OEM air filters have anywhere between 1-4" water colum of restriction when new. A fitler is considered to be "Loaded" when restriction reaches 15" WC on naturally aspirated motors and 25"WC on turbo or supercharged vehicles. Regardless of how dirty the filter may look provided restriction does not exceed the above numbers the filter is providing 95% efficiency at removing all particles greater than 10-15 microns.

Bottom line is that using any type of high flow filter that does not meet the 95% filtering capability at 15 microns is asking for trouble.

Call K&N and ask them what their filtering efficiency is at 15 microns and if they will warranty the MAF if it becomes contaminated and burns out... I will save you the time, they will laugh at you and not do a thing."

 

I use them on everything! Never had an issue. It all started with my Chevota, which I bought one because I drive in the sand and don't want to change filters twice day. One day out in the desert I put a paper element in which was supposed to have the highest flow rating. Why I forget but probably my never ending search for information so I'm always testing things. I didn't get far at all, 100 yards or so maybe, major power loss, paper has got to go!
Since I have so much dust/sand to deal with I'd clean my K&N often, like maybe once during a weekend at the desert, for sure when I got home. Not that it isn't working, but the pleats in front side are packed with oily dust. So I buy a pre-filter, and Outerwears are what everyone runs in the desert. I could tell by looking at it it'll be a fail but tried it anyway. Imo it's worse than the paper. K&N makes a red foam pre-filter and that works without restricting flow. So now I just pull that puppy off and wash which is sooo much easier than cleaning the regular K&N cotton element. Fyi I used an old school round filter on my Chevota, 4" high x 14" OD, which is a 400 cu (6.6L) motor.
As for normal cars with all the computer BS, no issues. I heard and understand the MAF issue but I do it anyway. Not only do I do it, but I over oil the filters just to be sure they're catching the max dust, and to see if it'll screw up the MAF. My '99 CLK was my MB test bed for this and yes there was a film of oil in the intake leading to the MAF which also had a film on it. They say not to touch the element in the MAF or even look at it sideways because it's so delicate, so of course I decide to see how delicate and use a Q-tip dripping wet with brake cleaner. No problem, works fine. Later I'd just spray it and call it good but never did the oil cause an issue and as time went by I'd clean it less and less, which wasn't often to begin with.
Other cars I never cleaned. My last two Benz don't have a MAF so can't really do any testing.
I can't say the power was better in the CLK with it as I'm sure gains were small, but it would do 0-60 in 6.0 seconds which is a good chunk faster than claimed and not bad for a 215HP V6.