C63AMG W205 Juddering and Jerky under Acceleration
I was plagued by this last year as seen earlier in the thread lol
Symptoms:
- cold start - after engaging "D", the car does not start moving. One needs quite some throttle - the car starts moving, when RPM advance above ~2,000 rpm.
- after warm start, as soon as the transmission-fluid is warm (>50°C, AMG-screen in the driver information center the temperature changes from blue to white), the car tends to jerk under medium to higher loads between 1,000 and 3,000 rpm from time to time. Especially after a longer drive at constant loads (for example 15 miles with cruise control at 100 mph) or some high speed cruising (20 miles >150mph) without ripping through the gears.
I have been driving my C63S estate for 3 years now, sustainable 100k kilometers on the counter, but for a long time I have had a problem that the car stutters with partial load, in the meantime I have had a broken coil, but immediately replaced all spark plugs and coils.
However, the stuttering of the car remains.
I have already searched the entire internet for the solution and already examined all the Tip documents made by Mercedes, unfortunately nothing that brings me to the solution
The engine and gearbox are now both phase 1, this has also made no difference, the stuttering remains exactly as it was.
I myself work in the automotive industry, I know what I am talking about myself, I also worked for Mercedes-Benz for 6 years, but this problem has never been encountered.
In the meantime I have spoken to several dealer companies but no one can point me in the right direction.
In my opinion, everything points to the Clutch. However, it seems that the clutch does not slip and when you start the car in D it just goes underground without giving gas.
I don't mind replacing the clutch, but I would like to be 100% sure about this, because it is a day's work
Tips and advice from people with similar problems are very welcome
Thanks in advance!
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
only difference between my car and yours are that I do have codes present. My codes are: P0108 and P2A0D
P0108 - Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) or Barometric Pressure Sensor Circuit High Input
P2A0D - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor 'B' Circuit High has been detected
I think it has to do with the map sensors in the intercooler, I have read in another forum a user had same codes and turned out to be map sensors in intercooler. Link below:https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-c63s-...108-p0238.html
if anyone has any information please post, I’m really not trying to spend $10k+ just to fix things that don’t need to be fixed to solve this issue!
Please and thank you!
Last edited by btcgarrett; Aug 15, 2025 at 09:59 AM.
I will update tomorrow night or the day after when it is completed with the update, praying this is the fix. This issue has kinda killed the brand for me and ICE engines as a whole, will be selling this car and buying a tesla model s plaid after this
I am going to have a shop replace the sensors for 5.25 hours worth at $930 total, excluding parts. The sensors are right on top of each intercooler in the front of the engine, under the black wiring harness that is on top of the intercoolers, if it wasn't for the wiring harness i could simply do myself in 15mins, but of course they engineered this engine/car to not be maintenance. Ridiculous tbh, but if it solves the issue ill be happy. then going to sell thing thing and get something else.
i will update you after the shop tomorrow or Sunday and see if i have any updates on the issues while driving.
I really dont think that your issue is transmission related at all, check out this other thread with issues same as me and his were sensors.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-c63s-...ml#post9201504
When your car stutters or whatever it does, can you audibly hear a difference in the exhaust sound while it does stutter? Mine does just trying to see if mine is same issue as others
mine will literally sound like it’s running on 7 cylinders or misfiring when it stutters. Not near as powerful as it used to be
Anyways though I just wanted to mention that after the second fluid change mind you this fluid was most likely very toast due to it running at extremely hot temperatures for a very long time due to the transmission cooler being cracked for who knows how long and no errors were presented to the driver about the temperature which I personally saw climb to 270 degrees Fahrenheit and no warnings. But after the second fluid change the car felt much smoother with problem now occurring randomly and not so bad at all compared to when it first was occurring. Glad that this improved it greatly looks like I will not have to be changing the wet clutch on this thing after all.
My trans cooler had a leak and saw temps up to 240 degrees, and am worried about my clutch packs being glazed or the wet clutch damaged? i do not know when the last trans service was, so I want to do a transmission fluid change and see if that corrects any issues like it did for you
Now back to the drawing board, I think it is transmission related. I do not know when the last time my trans was serviced so i am hoping that it is simple as a transmission flush but who knows at this point. I'm sure it will end up being a major issue like wet clutch or clutch packs or valve body/conductor plate.
Happily to say this is the last Mercedes product i am ever owning!

2017 C63
started when I went stage 1, when you took off the tune it went away, I had faith in the tuner to resolve so I went stage 2, issue continued, like some other poster mentioned I notice the jumping in boost gauge now, wasn’t there before, more common between 1.6-3k rpm, it was a wider range but changed coil packs, spark plugs, put another set of spark plugs with a lower gap of 0.022”, turbo clamps replaced, no intake cracks, transmission fluid twice, forced the relearn process through Xentry, diff fluid changed, absolutely no codes through Xentry and no CEL. Also only use top tier fuels, the very first time I noticed it was when I put some e85 in there (maybe cause of the extra power? Maybe injectors?)
ive seen several posts about replacing wet clutch with no success, so just in limbo on the next steps and hoping someone comes up with a solid answer in my exact situation.
Kinda gave up on the issue and just cruise when I crave my c63, but would love to fall in love with the car again if I could. Then saw that people picked up the page again.
All mods paused, no faster to make the car cause what’s the point. Tuner is adamant it’s not their fault and it’s a common OTS tune everywhere.
what a bummer cause this was truly my dream car, and it’s been a huge disappointment, was hoping to come up with a solid resolution so I don’t get scared of other MCT cars since I’d love a fleet of AMGs, but with no resolution why bother! Don’t meet your heroes huh
2017 C63
started when I went stage 1, when you took off the tune it went away, I had faith in the tuner to resolve so I went stage 2, issue continued, like some other poster mentioned I notice the jumping in boost gauge now, wasn’t there before, more common between 1.6-3k rpm, it was a wider range but changed coil packs, spark plugs, put another set of spark plugs with a lower gap of 0.022”, turbo clamps replaced, no intake cracks, transmission fluid twice, forced the relearn process through Xentry, diff fluid changed, absolutely no codes through Xentry and no CEL. Also only use top tier fuels, the very first time I noticed it was when I put some e85 in there (maybe cause of the extra power? Maybe injectors?)
ive seen several posts about replacing wet clutch with no success, so just in limbo on the next steps and hoping someone comes up with a solid answer in my exact situation.
Kinda gave up on the issue and just cruise when I crave my c63, but would love to fall in love with the car again if I could. Then saw that people picked up the page again.
All mods paused, no faster to make the car cause what’s the point. Tuner is adamant it’s not their fault and it’s a common OTS tune everywhere.
what a bummer cause this was truly my dream car, and it’s been a huge disappointment, was hoping to come up with a solid resolution so I don’t get scared of other MCT cars since I’d love a fleet of AMGs, but with no resolution why bother! Don’t meet your heroes huh
It's frustrating to hear you're also experiencing this problem. The fun of your car quickly fades when you have to deal with these kinds of things. The expense isn't a problem, but the unknown solution bothers me. I recently spoke with someone who is familiar with the problem and mentioned that they had their differential rebuilt. There were no noises in the diff, but the oil was gray with light grit. I'm debating whether to have my diff rebuilt, as I just had the clutch replaced (which did alleviate the problem). And the shifting quality has also improved enormously! When I have the time and motivation, I'll disassemble the diff for rebuilt. If I have any results, I'll share them here. Regards!
its currently at the shops they did a trans service and still same they called me this arvo saying they will do the adaptions see if that does
anything
they did say when they had the laptop the torque convertor was throwing some codes and acting up
So im guessing its a wet clutch issue
so annoying as i just bought the car last week and obviously didnt feel this when we test drove it 😢

My question to those who changed it was:
Did they see any codes or info telling them it’s busted in Xentry? Or just replaced it based on the judder alone?
After changing my differential fluid it came out pretty clean, so did my transmission fluid both times, it was a little dirty but looked like normal wear after 40k miles, I don’t think any grit in there.
If they had no codes on Xentry, what part number did they use for the wet clutch and gearbox bolts?
https://youtu.be/UPbhkt7ehhg?si=DLx3XV8WYhKF8rsn
This is the e63 tuned with the same wet clutch.
Last edited by HabibiBenz; Sep 4, 2025 at 05:15 PM.

My question to those who changed it was:
Did they see any codes or info telling them it’s busted in Xentry? Or just replaced it based on the judder alone?
After changing my differential fluid it came out pretty clean, so did my transmission fluid both times, it was a little dirty but looked like normal wear after 40k miles, I don’t think any grit in there.
If they had no codes on Xentry, what part number did they use for the wet clutch and gearbox bolts?
https://youtu.be/UPbhkt7ehhg?si=DLx3XV8WYhKF8rsn
This is the e63 tuned with the same wet clutch.
Exchange Start-Off Clutch, Wet - Mercedes-Benz (221-250-03-01)
a confirmation would be fantastic for 2017 c63
Symptoms:
- cold start - after engaging "D", the car does not start moving. One needs quite some throttle - the car starts moving, when RPM advance above ~2,000 rpm.
- after warm start, as soon as the transmission-fluid is warm (>50°C, AMG-screen in the driver information center the temperature changes from blue to white), the car tends to jerk under medium to higher loads between 1,000 and 3,000 rpm from time to time. Especially after a longer drive at constant loads (for example 15 miles with cruise control at 100 mph) or some high speed cruising (20 miles >150mph) without ripping through the gears.
Just wanted to share my experience with these same symptoms
My car is a facelift w205 c63s sedan, 2019 so 7 years old this year
About 9-11 months ago, I noticed that sometimes when i cold start my car and move the car into "D" the car would not move at all (no creep forward) unless I gave it some power through the gas pedal. The rpms would go up to about 2000 before the car would move.
This would only happen maybe once every 3 cold start ups. Then it became every other start up, then every start up. I did mention it during servicing (when it was once every 3 start ups) but no codes or errors came back. Once it became every start up, after giving the car some gas to get it to move, it would jolt forward as if it were jumping into gear or something (I have no idea).
Eventually I couldn't stand it anymore and sent it into to my workshop to get it checked. By this point there was an error code for the mechatronic unit. So the MU was replaced, but the symptoms continued to persist. The decision was made to replace the clutch plates in the MCT and service the wet clutch.
After doing all that, the car was returned and the symptoms were gone.. for a few days before returning. The lack of creep upon cold start in D came back but was again only every few start ups, and there was no more jolting. An additional symptom that appeared was the rpms dropping after giving some throttle while above 2.5k-3k rpms. The rpms would drop like it wanted to shift, then continue going back up then actually shift.
In the end we are going to replace the wet clutch and hopefully resolve all these issues.






