So..... I got a call from my SA last week asking if I tuned the car after I bought it. I said hell no(because why would I?) And he continued saying that MB found the software in the transmission was different then that of a stock car.... Ok.... So they are "investigating" my car and decide to try to flash stock tune back to the TCU. This fails. Multiple times....Duh..... So now they are checking if they should replace the TCU....

Question is.... Could the TCU cause this issue? Guess well find out. I have spoken to the sales manager and said if this doesnt get fixed you guys are buying my car back and I will go elsewhere.

 

Don’t know if i mentioned it before but i recently found out mine had been tuned and the secondary cats removed. MB said that it shouldn’t cause this issue but waiting for their specialists to confirm, he mentioned the Wetclutch again.
If its the TCU get them to change it and test it, if it works thumbs up, if it doesn’t let them have it back. I didn’t want to give mine up without trying but there is only so much trying one man can do.
Good luck 👍

 

I am certain it’s the Wet clutch…. Just have to let them figure it out. I think I can invoke the lemon law once it’s with the for 30 days. They will def speed things up we are at 15 days this weds

 

15 days, I’ve had 3 months with this issue 🙈

 

I’m not a quitter but I’m close to giving up on this one. £3k spent over the last 6 months. Same crap from Merc that you are all hearing as well as a gearbox specialist, Mb indie and high performance car expert can’t shed any extra light on the situation. I have noticed the symptoms are way worse when it rains (pretty regular in the UK) and I’m travelling up a hill. When I tell the experts this they think I’m drunk, especially after having the gearbox work done. Do any of you have worse symptoms in the wet or driving up an incline? Hot sunny days I get this issue way less.

 

I’ve had to throw in the towel 😢. MB wanted to charge me £700 just to take out and check the ECU even though they know its ok, its just they have a flow chart which need to be followed before they move in to the next steps. Then they want £2200 to change the Wet clutch even though they haven’t diagnosed this as the issue. They said that because the car has been tuned and had the secondary cats removed they can no longer guarantee any future works, so whats the point in me keeping it. Its been 3 months of this **** and I’m worn out!

I will be back once i source another problem free beast.

Hope you all get your problems fixed and have many years of good driving ahead of you.

be safe 👍

 

don't give up! you have a car that has been modified and abused and you don't know what crap is on the tcu and ecu. Hit up kirklandhans on Instagram and have him flash your tcu and ecu to oem or buy his tuning and see how the car runs. You mostly have a bad tcu tune on the car.

 

You really think the tune would do this? who just tunes the TCU though? chance to look at the vids I posted?

 

got my car back from MB. Ended up being the wet clutch. They replaced the transmission valve body in the process and the engine mounts. All under warranty(after fighting it). But we pretty much gathered Wet clutch causes such behavior. They identified it based on the start/stop taking about 2500rpm before it engages and starts rolling.

 

I lived with basically the same issue for about a year or more. Ran fine down the road but would shutter going up an overpass on cruise and hard accel. I got in the habit of clicking down a couple of mph when going up. Went through all the engine stuff looking for the issue. Finally got to thinking golllleeee there's something else on the bus that makes the wheels go round. Explained the problem over the phone to the greatest transmission man in the world and he immediately said it is a bad conductor plate. THEN HE HAD ME ORDER IT TO SAVE ME MONEY! Poof problem gone. Mercedes continues the mystic of complication in search of the almighty dollar.

 

Hows things with your cars guys? I eventually took my car in to sell and brought another one, fingers crossed this one is running well, as it should be. Hope you’ve managed to get yours sorted. Happy driving 👍

 

Probably trading in one problem for another. I have been fixing my care for years and have learned so much doing it. 90% fixing you can do in your drive. by doing this you know exactly what you can eliminate as a problem. When you buy a used car you have not idea who has been working on it or what has been done. Things I have done in the drive with the help of utube and forums, Brakes rebuild and flush, total front end replace, power steering rack and pump replace, water pump replace, cats replaced, alternator module, etc. Currently have a misfire on one cylinder. Swapped all the electrics. Compression was low. Took it to a shop to check my work and they said yep, compression is low but did not know why. I put some restore in it but it still smoked from the misfire side so I parked it for a couple of months since I was mad at it. When I got back to it I pulled all the plugs, PULLED THE FUEL RELAY and dreamed of good compression. FIRST READING IN THE BAD CYLINDER WAS 210!!! Then it settled down to 170 like all the other cylinders. To make a short story long I started removing stuff, broke now, can't get any worse. Thought the timing had skipped but misread the marks. Double checked before ordering parts. Thought about what it could be for another week and what I had not checked which came down to fuel. Pulled the fuel rail, rented a fuel pressure gauge and boom, lightning struck, injector stuck open! My theory is the cylinder was getting lubed by gas so gave low compression. When I let it sit the gas evaporated which allowed oil to lube for before enough gas got too it. It is not rocket science. Have not gotten it back together but think I have found the problem,not the symtom (sp). Information is key. So, I have my useless crossed fingers until I turn that key. Let you know how it goes.

 

Still got mine sitting on the drive next to my electric car and suffice to say the electric has been used a lot recently. I appreciate when you buy a second hand car you can have all sorts of problems. I bought mine outright, brand new in 2016, have done a steady 4,000 per year. Looked after it and fully serviced it with MB UK. It's totally standard other than 295's on the back tires, And i am still having the same issues as you all that have found filters replaced, remaped software and removal of cats. My problems started when it was 4 years old. I think they are just 'unreliable cars' The gearbox conductor plate does make sense as does a bad fuel pump, but where do you stop? Now a days, i occasionally drive it like i stole it and it seems to cope with that as no problems on full acceleration. Biding my time until the new one comes out next year. Sure that will be a whole heap of new issues but i do love an AMG.

 

"where do you stop" It never stops until the fat lady sings, new or used. I just would rather put the horrendous depreciation and the excessive warranty charge that does not cover everything including your time hassling with MB into parts and fix it myself. They all are still just cars that 90% of the technology has been around for over 100 years. I probably got 15 to 20 K in my car but it still goes like a bat out of hell. I would go electric too since they are simpler but the costs of used ones are still too high. Eventually I will probably convert my E55 to electric when I finally blow it up with autocross. As you probably know the torque in electrics beats any internal compression.
How wide are your rims with the 295's? I have a bent rim I need to replace and still have the 265's on 10.5 rims.
I replaced my cat's, not get rid of them. Two reasons, engineers usually design and test to work within some parameter, and the cats are an attempt to delay global warming. Usually when you go outside those design parameters something breaks (o-rings and shuttles, larger wheels and torque, etc). Mercedes has been at this a long time and has stuffed 469 hp in a very nice package whereas my 67 Goat is only 335 and I can sleep in the engine bay, but I digress. Better call to see if my parts are in and get to work.

 

Only replaced the rear tyres a few months back when they needed doing. It had been juddering on and off for 6 months before i changed them. Not sure how wide they are but I have 20 inch on the back. They should have come out of the factory with 295's. Way more grip, handles brilliantly and looks much, much better. Kept the fronts as 255's as i'm impressed with how it turns in and didn't want to loose that. No detrimental impact to speedometer or traction control. Oh and thy are p4's which are amazing in wet and dry. I think in the UK you have to buy MO1's which are for the SL65AMG's at this size.
Did you replace your conductor plate yourself? Is it a DIY drive jobby? I still think it's the gearbox playing up but all that have looked at it have said it is fine.

 

I was tempted to do it myself but really need a lift and the procedure requires flushing (pump) etc. Plus my transmission God (NOT MB) that put me onto it deserved the job, about 700 all in which is a transmission service also. changing the plate is easy since it is right under the bottom plate, but naturally when you take off the bottom plate all that fluid falls which you do not want to put back in then you need new gaskets and filter. So your sure there is a problem i suggest paying attention to how it acts so you can describe this to a transmissions only shop. Then describe the problem and see what they say and go for a ride to see if they are blowing smoke or are confidant that that is the problem. A good transmission shop should have no problem working on Mercedes. I had a "foreign specialist" do a transmission service and tell me he changes the filter then filters the oil. he said he has more problems when he puts new oil in. My God just laughed when I told him that.

 

The conductor plate is like a circuit board that the shift relays hook into (utube so you can see what it looks like. I believe what can happen is the traces can crack with age, so depending on what relay it is a ride with a good transmission tech should be able to identify actually which relay it is. The other thing it could be an intermittent, which are hard to identify. As you drive it pay attention to when it happens an is it repeatable. Test different accelerations, different constant speeds, etc. The better you can describe it the easier it is to find. It took me a year before it finally got bad enough to do something about it.

 

I am so glad I found this thread. I got my car in March and have been having this same issue although it didn't start in the beginning as bad as it has become now. Check engine light came on the next morning after I first took delivery of the car. I figured it was some issue with a sensor and nothing serious as I babied the car through the entire break in process and had only put 20 or so miles on it in 24 hours of ownership. The service at my local dealership said they couldn't find any issue with the car other than a random fuel sensor throwing a code. Then the jerkiness began and I started to revisit the check engine light issue. The car now has around 4500 miles on it and today I was driving the car home from lunch and out of nowhere it started to drop power while cruising at medium speeds, check engine light then pops on. I noticed the car was acting funny the day before though and kept losing boost with mid level acceleration but saw no engine light or any cause for concern. It was very humid last night so I figured the turbos just weren't having it.

I will add that my car requires a little juice on the pedal to get in moving once put in drive but will sometimes do so on its own. When it does move on its own it usually is somewhat jerky off the bat. I experience that juddering and jerking from 1st to 2nd gear with light acceleration and sometimes at mid level acceleration in other gears. The issue that caused the second check engine light to come on today may be related to these issues and I will keep the forum updated if I find a solution.

I've had the car for under 6 months and these issues are worrying to say the least. I hope my dealership can get this fixed or Mercedes steps up and gets to the bottom of this issue as it really ruins the ownership experience. I mean hell after 24 hours of having the car and a check engine light comes on? Will keep everyone updated.

 

Sounds like smoke to me. "couldn't find any issue with the car other than a random fuel sensor throwing a code." No such thing as a random fuel sensor. There is either a sensor or not. My first question to them would be which sensor and where is it and how will the car act when it fails. More than likely it is in the gas tank integrated in the $600 fuel assembly which they don't want to fix since it would be their nickel. Clearing the code is a lot easier.

 

Maybe someone from Germany can ask here for help:

 

I started this post & now my problem is resolved. I have just had the car in to Mercedes for the 10th time this year. They argued about not doing the gearbox oil change last year as it had only covered 18,000 miles and Mercedes wouldn't pay for it as part of my service package. Low and behold this year on 19,500 miles they said it is due. They did the oil change & filter and so far - 2 weeks and 1,000 miles later the problem has not come back. Additionally since changing the coils and plugs it's the fastest it has ever been.

Annoying that i've had to deal with it all year but at least it is now fixed. Hopefully this helps some of you.

 

The dealer told me that the transmission oil is life time and that it doesn’t need to be serviced on my 17 c63s coupe.. am I missing something here?

 

I have heard different advice from different people within Mercedes. Everything from never having to do it to every 3 years. Mercedes UK confirmed on the phone it needed doing at 50k or 5 years recently. However, I have a friend with the same car told it’s not included under the service plan at all. All that I know is I started here and should have pushed harder as it’s completely changed the way the car drives - even when cold which I previously thought was fine.
I would pay for this ahead of changing all the parts that I have had to. It would have saved a lot of time and money.
I guess my lesson learnt is if you suspect a gear box issue get it’s oil and filter changed first and go from there.

 

Thank goodness it's fixed man and thank you for updating the thread unlike others who just disappear.

Happy days 👊

 

Jesus.. I knew something was wrong with my car lol my first amg btw but forsure I’ll making a game plan from reading all of these remedies and doing the work myself. Mine is literally doing the same issue too:/