‘16 C63S Tuning Issues
Coils (you fixed)
Spark plugs (you fixed)
Rear exhaust flap actuators not working properly/getting stuck and causing car to limit power
You need to get your car on the dyno and properly looked at. Power curve must be seen/inspected.
Yours has the performance exhaust right?
All in all 20k down the drain with not so much as an apology or any offer of compensation from the location or jerry even after reaching out to him personally. If it’s Eurocharged just try a different company don’t waste your time or money with them. Especially if you are working with the Orlando location.
So far my mechanic has replaced the ‘boost pressure transducer’ which has been known to go bad on the M157’s. It’s apparent that there is a boost leak on the car somewhere, and is the reason why it’s not making proper boost. Again - no additional codes pertaining to anything turbo related. Tomorrow we’re going to smoke test the car to see if we can find anything. We’re also going to replace all the hoses that have to do with the turbo for safe measure. I’ll report back tomorrow hopefully with some good news.
Some random things to note: i was getting the stored codes for crankcase ventilation in xentry which could be attributed to bms intakes somehow. I have since switched to stock intakes to see if the code is stored again. Another random code that popped up this week was for the electronic engine mounts so tomorrow we will be checking those as well. (Have never seen this code before on my car) The car has 50k miles so i’m not sure how long the engine mounts on these cars last. Thanks everyone for all your help so far and I will try to report back tomorrow or in two days!
All in all 20k down the drain with not so much as an apology or any offer of compensation from the location or jerry even after reaching out to him personally. If it’s Eurocharged just try a different company don’t waste your time or money with them. Especially if you are working with the Orlando location.
Everytime I even begin to talk to someone and share HORRIBLE experiences about EuroCharged, one of the owners will POP in and say it was this or that, or someone else etc etc etc.
More so on FB, they will kick or block you on the forums/groups etc .. I have heard/seen so much shady crap that they have done its not even funny.
And yea, they should have NEVER charged you another dime until your car was running for what you paid for, but then again, that would mean they actually care about the customer vs just wanting the money.
Nuts... nuts..
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
That aside I’m not sure going down that road is really worth it with these cars. These aren’t ever going to be street racing kings. It will never be fast enough no matter what you do. Is it really worth all the trouble to cut a few tenths if a second off a 60-130? To beat that other guy on the highway but just an extra bumper or two? I don’t really think so. But then again after my experience I have some strong bias lol.
If I could go back I’d just leave my car stock with a cat back exhaust and call it a day. Money and headache not worth it. Better to save the $$$ to spend on your next car.
That aside I’m not sure going down that road is really worth it with these cars. These aren’t ever going to be street racing kings. It will never be fast enough no matter what you do. Is it really worth all the trouble to cut a few tenths if a second off a 60-130? To beat that other guy on the highway but just an extra bumper or two? I don’t really think so. But then again after my experience I have some strong bias lol.
If I could go back I’d just leave my car stock with a cat back exhaust and call it a day. Money and headache not worth it. Better to save the $$$ to spend on your next car.
These cars are engineered and built to be amazing road/track cars, why try and make it a drag car ? and sorry (IMO) trying to race someone on the highway etc is just dumb.
I track my cars, and have fun that way, its SAFE as it can be and not being stupid on a highway.
Many times, I have come across cars that put down 700 - 1000 HP, and
1) they cant drive in a corner to save there lives,
2) same as #1 plus they cant manage or car cant handle power for turns and lasts but not least
3) They cant drive !
If you want to drag race other cars , start off by getting a car that doesn't weigh over 1.5 tons ! :-)
That aside I’m not sure going down that road is really worth it with these cars. These aren’t ever going to be street racing kings. It will never be fast enough no matter what you do. Is it really worth all the trouble to cut a few tenths if a second off a 60-130? To beat that other guy on the highway but just an extra bumper or two? I don’t really think so. But then again after my experience I have some strong bias lol.
If I could go back I’d just leave my car stock with a cat back exhaust and call it a day. Money and headache not worth it. Better to save the $$$ to spend on your next car.
examples:
the owner insisted the sensor attached to the intake were mass air flow sensors and by having them detached I was causing errors in the ECU. Even though it is well known those are simply to check when the filter needs to be replaced so they are fine to leave unplugged.
they claimed they couldn’t figure out how to get the car into dyno mode which I had to then explain to them how to do over the phone after 5 minutes of searching on YouTube…
just little things like that can clue you in to the knowledge of any particular shop. RUN at the first sign of B.S. I wouldn’t pay much attention to the brand name and more to the actual shop itself. Finding good mechanics is hard.
examples:
the owner insisted the sensor attached to the intake were mass air flow sensors and by having them detached I was causing errors in the ECU. Even though it is well known those are simply to check when the filter needs to be replaced so they are fine to leave unplugged.
they claimed they couldn’t figure out how to get the car into dyno mode which I had to then explain to them how to do over the phone after 5 minutes of searching on YouTube…
just little things like that can clue you in to the knowledge of any particular shop. RUN at the first sign of B.S. I wouldn’t pay much attention to the brand name and more to the actual shop itself. Finding good mechanics is hard.
they sell the tunes etc to each shop etc..
its no excuse , ec uses it as one but thats
bs !!
if they were in it for the right reasons and NOT $$$ they wouldnt do that !
Renntech, Dinan, etc etc dont do it , they have certified installers and resellers but all mods / coding etc are out of HQ in Florida for renntech.
and , i got into it big time with a eurocharged franchise that was so full of crap, and even owners of ec tried to
back him up and even made it worse !!
shady crap all around . no transparency just lots of smoke and mirrors
all those people with stage 2 tunes most likely run like absolute crap in summer temps. I would look into ptg split cooling before doing downpipes and there stage 1 tuning is best your going to get for a canned file.
of course after the turbo upgrade issues it was much slower. Are you short shifting at around 6k-6.5k rpm? My stage 2 car would run about mid to low 9s 60-130 if I let it rev all the way out. Short shifting was noticeably faster. Was one of the main reasons I wanted to do a turbo upgrade in the first place so I could just leave it in auto and let it rev out.
they sell the tunes etc to each shop etc..
its no excuse , ec uses it as one but thats
bs !!
if they were in it for the right reasons and NOT $$$ they wouldnt do that !
Renntech, Dinan, etc etc dont do it , they have certified installers and resellers but all mods / coding etc are out of HQ in Florida for renntech.
and , i got into it big time with a eurocharged franchise that was so full of crap, and even owners of ec tried to
back him up and even made it worse !!
shady crap all around . no transparency just lots of smoke and mirrors
Just so we are clear to anyone that finds this thread in the future:
if you live in Florida DO NOT take your car the EC Orlando. They do not have the expertise to be taking on turbo upgrade builds at this point. For smaller stuff they seem alright though. But expect poor communication and constant delays.
Oh and my car was damaged twice after picking it up but I only noticed once I got the car home so I could not prove it was them so I didn’t even bother bringing it up…..but I just somehow I seemed to get the only 2 door dings I’ve ever had the same day after I picked it up with only having driven straight home from their shop. And also had my front undercarriage guard scraped so bad it almost flew off as soon as I reached highway speeds on the way home. Had to pull over and wrap duct tape around my whole bumper and undercarriage just to make it home. I drive careful as ****. I never hit a pothole and take inclines almost completely sideways. That kind of damage comes from completely bottoming the car out at speed which I absolutely never did.
moral: don’t cheap out on the tuner I went with EC because they claimed higher numbers and were around 10k cheaper than renntech. But saving money is pointless if you never get the finished product
Last edited by SteveDesai; Dec 13, 2021 at 08:26 PM.






