Coolant Flush
02-19-2010, 09:17 AM
#27
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Location: Grayslake, Illinois
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2006 S500 4matic, 2004 CL55 AMG, 1986 560SEC
3 Micron Filter?
CL500-
You mentioned replacing the ABC filter with a 3 micron unit. Is this an MB part and do you have the number?
I have just purchased a CL55 (57K miles) and am going through all the routine maintenance stuff while she's parked for the winter.
I too have a right rear strut that 'settles' down after sitting for more than a week but I don't think it's the strut- I believe you can have individual corners drop from a leaky ABC check valve (each strut is controlled and valved independently) but the valves come assembled and are replaced as a set (front wheels or rear wheels). Has anyone attempted to disassemble one of these valves?
I have to believe there is another way to fix a leaky check valve other than replacing a $1000 valve? I wonder if I can pick up a hammered one out of a bone yard and do some experiments ;-)
Also, I will be attempting the trans fluid replacement as well. The one thing you didn't mention is that there is a drain plug on the torque converter (on the 5-speed trans anyway) that drains another several quarts of fluid.
Between the pan and the torque converter, you probably have 90% of the fluid you can replace. In a properly working trans, this is good enough for me.
I am a bit skeptical of the whole trans 'flush' thing for cars that have no transmission issues to begin with. These transmissions are 'sealed' and the fluid is supposed to be 'lifetime'. It all depends on how hard you are on the car, how many miles you have and how long you intend to keep the car that should factored in the whole trans fluid decision.
Unless you have some unusual wear or leaks in the trans, your fluid should never be really dirty. Flushing the lines and radiator is something I would do if the trans is being rebuilt or replaced, otherwise it just seems to be a lot of unnecessary work than can potentially lead to more work (broken radiator or coolant line fittings etc). For myself, I am going to replace the filter and fluid (pan and torque converter only) just because I am the 3rd owner and the previous maintenance of the car is somewhat unknown. Besides, I can do the work myself and I intend to keep the car until it becomes prohibitively expensive to maintain or until the wheels fall off.
Just my 2 cents, your mileage may vary.
Thanks!
Elm
You mentioned replacing the ABC filter with a 3 micron unit. Is this an MB part and do you have the number?
I have just purchased a CL55 (57K miles) and am going through all the routine maintenance stuff while she's parked for the winter.
I too have a right rear strut that 'settles' down after sitting for more than a week but I don't think it's the strut- I believe you can have individual corners drop from a leaky ABC check valve (each strut is controlled and valved independently) but the valves come assembled and are replaced as a set (front wheels or rear wheels). Has anyone attempted to disassemble one of these valves?
I have to believe there is another way to fix a leaky check valve other than replacing a $1000 valve? I wonder if I can pick up a hammered one out of a bone yard and do some experiments ;-)
Also, I will be attempting the trans fluid replacement as well. The one thing you didn't mention is that there is a drain plug on the torque converter (on the 5-speed trans anyway) that drains another several quarts of fluid.
Between the pan and the torque converter, you probably have 90% of the fluid you can replace. In a properly working trans, this is good enough for me.
I am a bit skeptical of the whole trans 'flush' thing for cars that have no transmission issues to begin with. These transmissions are 'sealed' and the fluid is supposed to be 'lifetime'. It all depends on how hard you are on the car, how many miles you have and how long you intend to keep the car that should factored in the whole trans fluid decision.
Unless you have some unusual wear or leaks in the trans, your fluid should never be really dirty. Flushing the lines and radiator is something I would do if the trans is being rebuilt or replaced, otherwise it just seems to be a lot of unnecessary work than can potentially lead to more work (broken radiator or coolant line fittings etc). For myself, I am going to replace the filter and fluid (pan and torque converter only) just because I am the 3rd owner and the previous maintenance of the car is somewhat unknown. Besides, I can do the work myself and I intend to keep the car until it becomes prohibitively expensive to maintain or until the wheels fall off.
Just my 2 cents, your mileage may vary.
Thanks!
Elm
02-19-2010, 10:07 AM
#28
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
CL500-
You mentioned replacing the ABC filter with a 3 micron unit. Is this an MB part and do you have the number?
I have just purchased a CL55 (57K miles) and am going through all the routine maintenance stuff while she's parked for the winter.
I too have a right rear strut that 'settles' down after sitting for more than a week but I don't think it's the strut- I believe you can have individual corners drop from a leaky ABC check valve (each strut is controlled and valved independently) but the valves come assembled and are replaced as a set (front wheels or rear wheels). Has anyone attempted to disassemble one of these valves?
I have to believe there is another way to fix a leaky check valve other than replacing a $1000 valve? I wonder if I can pick up a hammered one out of a bone yard and do some experiments ;-)
Also, I will be attempting the trans fluid replacement as well. The one thing you didn't mention is that there is a drain plug on the torque converter (on the 5-speed trans anyway) that drains another several quarts of fluid.
Between the pan and the torque converter, you probably have 90% of the fluid you can replace. In a properly working trans, this is good enough for me.
I am a bit skeptical of the whole trans 'flush' thing for cars that have no transmission issues to begin with. These transmissions are 'sealed' and the fluid is supposed to be 'lifetime'. It all depends on how hard you are on the car, how many miles you have and how long you intend to keep the car that should factored in the whole trans fluid decision.
Unless you have some unusual wear or leaks in the trans, your fluid should never be really dirty. Flushing the lines and radiator is something I would do if the trans is being rebuilt or replaced, otherwise it just seems to be a lot of unnecessary work than can potentially lead to more work (broken radiator or coolant line fittings etc). For myself, I am going to replace the filter and fluid (pan and torque converter only) just because I am the 3rd owner and the previous maintenance of the car is somewhat unknown. Besides, I can do the work myself and I intend to keep the car until it becomes prohibitively expensive to maintain or until the wheels fall off.
Just my 2 cents, your mileage may vary.
Thanks!
Elm
You mentioned replacing the ABC filter with a 3 micron unit. Is this an MB part and do you have the number?
I have just purchased a CL55 (57K miles) and am going through all the routine maintenance stuff while she's parked for the winter.
I too have a right rear strut that 'settles' down after sitting for more than a week but I don't think it's the strut- I believe you can have individual corners drop from a leaky ABC check valve (each strut is controlled and valved independently) but the valves come assembled and are replaced as a set (front wheels or rear wheels). Has anyone attempted to disassemble one of these valves?
I have to believe there is another way to fix a leaky check valve other than replacing a $1000 valve? I wonder if I can pick up a hammered one out of a bone yard and do some experiments ;-)
Also, I will be attempting the trans fluid replacement as well. The one thing you didn't mention is that there is a drain plug on the torque converter (on the 5-speed trans anyway) that drains another several quarts of fluid.
Between the pan and the torque converter, you probably have 90% of the fluid you can replace. In a properly working trans, this is good enough for me.
I am a bit skeptical of the whole trans 'flush' thing for cars that have no transmission issues to begin with. These transmissions are 'sealed' and the fluid is supposed to be 'lifetime'. It all depends on how hard you are on the car, how many miles you have and how long you intend to keep the car that should factored in the whole trans fluid decision.
Unless you have some unusual wear or leaks in the trans, your fluid should never be really dirty. Flushing the lines and radiator is something I would do if the trans is being rebuilt or replaced, otherwise it just seems to be a lot of unnecessary work than can potentially lead to more work (broken radiator or coolant line fittings etc). For myself, I am going to replace the filter and fluid (pan and torque converter only) just because I am the 3rd owner and the previous maintenance of the car is somewhat unknown. Besides, I can do the work myself and I intend to keep the car until it becomes prohibitively expensive to maintain or until the wheels fall off.
Just my 2 cents, your mileage may vary.
Thanks!
Elm
I changed my tranny's fluid and filter on my '02 CL500 a couple of weeks ago. The car has only 37K miles on it but is over 8 years old. Anyway, the fluid looked pretty good. I got about 4.7 liters out by dropping the pan which is about half of what is holds. I'll probably do it again in a year, but just change the fluid. As a side note, the 2 local stealers I called for pricing do not do a flush. They just drop the pan, change the filter, and replenish the fluid with new. Interestingly, one wanted $550 for the job and the other $300.
Below is a nice write up with pictures on the subject. A couple of other tips:
First there is a pilot bushing (electrical hook up) which was poorly designed and has a tendency to leak as the o-rings age. Mine was leaking so I replaced it (less than $20 full retail from your friendly stealer). Your car may have the newer improved version, but definitely check it out. Do a search on these forums and you'll find info on the subject and installation instructions.
The second tip is the pan's gasket. When I purchased the filter and gasket from my stealer, I didn't understand why they don't come together in a kit. After removing my pan, I found out why. The gasket has such unbelievable quality that it can safely and easily be reused. I don't believe it was designed to be tossed after one use. Full retail is around $18. Anyway, good luck with the project.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210...ion-fluid.html
Last edited by Jud Chapin; 02-19-2010 at 12:00 PM.
02-19-2010, 11:52 AM
#29
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
CL500-
You mentioned replacing the ABC filter with a 3 micron unit. Is this an MB part and do you have the number?
I have just purchased a CL55 (57K miles) and am going through all the routine maintenance stuff while she's parked for the winter.
I too have a right rear strut that 'settles' down after sitting for more than a week but I don't think it's the strut- I believe you can have individual corners drop from a leaky ABC check valve (each strut is controlled and valved independently) but the valves come assembled and are replaced as a set (front wheels or rear wheels). Has anyone attempted to disassemble one of these valves?
I have to believe there is another way to fix a leaky check valve other than replacing a $1000 valve? I wonder if I can pick up a hammered one out of a bone yard and do some experiments ;-)
Also, I will be attempting the trans fluid replacement as well. The one thing you didn't mention is that there is a drain plug on the torque converter (on the 5-speed trans anyway) that drains another several quarts of fluid.
Between the pan and the torque converter, you probably have 90% of the fluid you can replace. In a properly working trans, this is good enough for me.
I am a bit skeptical of the whole trans 'flush' thing for cars that have no transmission issues to begin with. These transmissions are 'sealed' and the fluid is supposed to be 'lifetime'. It all depends on how hard you are on the car, how many miles you have and how long you intend to keep the car that should factored in the whole trans fluid decision.
Unless you have some unusual wear or leaks in the trans, your fluid should never be really dirty. Flushing the lines and radiator is something I would do if the trans is being rebuilt or replaced, otherwise it just seems to be a lot of unnecessary work than can potentially lead to more work (broken radiator or coolant line fittings etc). For myself, I am going to replace the filter and fluid (pan and torque converter only) just because I am the 3rd owner and the previous maintenance of the car is somewhat unknown. Besides, I can do the work myself and I intend to keep the car until it becomes prohibitively expensive to maintain or until the wheels fall off.
Just my 2 cents, your mileage may vary.
Thanks!
Elm
You mentioned replacing the ABC filter with a 3 micron unit. Is this an MB part and do you have the number?
I have just purchased a CL55 (57K miles) and am going through all the routine maintenance stuff while she's parked for the winter.
I too have a right rear strut that 'settles' down after sitting for more than a week but I don't think it's the strut- I believe you can have individual corners drop from a leaky ABC check valve (each strut is controlled and valved independently) but the valves come assembled and are replaced as a set (front wheels or rear wheels). Has anyone attempted to disassemble one of these valves?
I have to believe there is another way to fix a leaky check valve other than replacing a $1000 valve? I wonder if I can pick up a hammered one out of a bone yard and do some experiments ;-)
Also, I will be attempting the trans fluid replacement as well. The one thing you didn't mention is that there is a drain plug on the torque converter (on the 5-speed trans anyway) that drains another several quarts of fluid.
Between the pan and the torque converter, you probably have 90% of the fluid you can replace. In a properly working trans, this is good enough for me.
I am a bit skeptical of the whole trans 'flush' thing for cars that have no transmission issues to begin with. These transmissions are 'sealed' and the fluid is supposed to be 'lifetime'. It all depends on how hard you are on the car, how many miles you have and how long you intend to keep the car that should factored in the whole trans fluid decision.
Unless you have some unusual wear or leaks in the trans, your fluid should never be really dirty. Flushing the lines and radiator is something I would do if the trans is being rebuilt or replaced, otherwise it just seems to be a lot of unnecessary work than can potentially lead to more work (broken radiator or coolant line fittings etc). For myself, I am going to replace the filter and fluid (pan and torque converter only) just because I am the 3rd owner and the previous maintenance of the car is somewhat unknown. Besides, I can do the work myself and I intend to keep the car until it becomes prohibitively expensive to maintain or until the wheels fall off.
Just my 2 cents, your mileage may vary.
Thanks!
Elm
ABC filter MB # is 003-184-61-01. The fluid is Q-1-32-0001. I don't know what else is available but I'd use only MB stuff.
Last edited by Jud Chapin; 02-19-2010 at 12:07 PM.
03-25-2017, 12:32 AM
#30
I did mine a few months ago. The true and correct way involves draining the radiator, heater core and block. I admit, I only did the radiator. The MB fluid is rated at something like 150K miles. I do mine every 2 years 20K miles by the radiator only.
All you'll need is some MB fluid and distilled water as it's not pre-mixed
Good luck
All you'll need is some MB fluid and distilled water as it's not pre-mixed
- Jack the car up.
- Remove the first underbody panel, right under the radiator.
- Open the coolant tank cap.
- On the drivers side, bottom of the radiator you'll see a red knob on with a drain spout under it. Open it up and drain the fluid.
- When all the fluid is removed, close the drain spout and re-attach paneling.
- Fill up mixed coolant (50% Coolant/50% Distilled Water) into the coolant tank to the very top.
- Start the car and run the heat on high for about 30 minutes.
- When the heat finally gets warm, all the air should be out of the heater core and system for that matter.
- Let the car cool down and open up the coolant tank and check the level. More than likely it dropped from bleeding the air in the system. Top off if necessary.
Good luck
03-25-2017, 10:24 AM
#31
I did mine a few months ago. The true and correct way involves draining the radiator, heater core and block. I admit, I only did the radiator. The MB fluid is rated at something like 150K miles. I do mine every 2 years 20K miles by the radiator only.
All you'll need is some MB fluid and distilled water as it's not pre-mixed.
Good luck
All you'll need is some MB fluid and distilled water as it's not pre-mixed.
- Jack the car up.
- Remove the first underbody panel, right under the radiator.
- Open the coolant tank cap.
- On the drivers side, bottom of the radiator you'll see a red knob on with a drain spout under it. Open it up and drain the fluid.
- When all the fluid is removed, close the drain spout and re-attach paneling.
- Fill up mixed coolant (50% Coolant/50% Distilled Water) into the coolant tank to the very top.
- Start the car and run the heat on high for about 30 minutes.
- When the heat finally gets warm, all the air should be out of the heater core and system for that matter.
- Let the car cool down and open up the coolant tank and check the level. More than likely it dropped from bleeding the air in the system. Top off if necessary.
Good luck
