Looking into a 2002 CL600
General instructions:
The A-pillars, side vents and center console have to go before the dash can be removed. For the side vents, the grille on top pops out revealing a screw. To get the center console out you have to get the chrome shifter trim bezel off, which means you have to get the shift knob off (rotate the chrome shift bezel at base of knob to unlock it). Center console unscrews from the sides of the dash (remove the carpet to unveil screws) and from the rear (remove rear vents on console). There's alot more to it than that for the console, but this is not meant to be a DIY instruction post.
As for getting the dash out, you have to know how to get dashboards out in general -- you have to feel it out. If you've never done it before then a CL is not the place to start!
But if you've had experience doing it on several cars in the past then this job will be very similar.Like I said, if you're mechanically inclined you can do the job done. By this, I mean if you've done the job before on other cars, then you should be able to take it on here. Most of the maintenance / repair work on a CL is similar to any other car. The only major differences are the ABC suspension (need Star Diagnosis) and anything electrical (need Star Diagnosis). So yeah get Star Diagnosis, do lots of Googling if you get stuck or use WIS, and that's all you should need. The only thing I had to Google was to figure out how to get the shifter knob off.
Edit: Almost forgot you also have to get the gauge cluster out (need radio removal tools, you can get them cheap from Harbor Freight) and the steering wheel out. In general for steering wheels you need to remove the airbag, which usually unscrews from the bottom with an allen. Mercedes steering wheels unbolt from the center once airbag is off (one giant bolt). Then you get the turn signal/wiper switches off. I also forgot to mention you need to disconnect the battery before starting, but I figure you would've already known that =). Also you need to memorize (or picture) how everything goes back together, and don't put the project off for a year or you will forget!
For AC work, you need an AC recovery system that will suck the freon out, otherwise it will go into the air. The lines disconnect from under the hood near where they go into the firewall.
Edit 2: Glove box and under cover removal... can't remember sorry ='(. All I remember is the glove box comes out pretty easily, but the under dash covers were a PITA.
Edit 3: BTW how much was the ATF per quart and do you know if you can get it anywhere else for cheaper? Also, aren't these trannies sealed-for-life?
http://www.parts.com/
They get around $12 for it plus shipping, I guess. The part # is 001-989-68-03-13. I wouldn't use anything other than this MB ATF.
Regarding sealed for life, this was MB's position when the 722.6 tranny first came out. Now they say change it at 60k kilometers/38k miles or at 5 years. I'm not sure, but they may say just change it this once.
Last edited by Jud Chapin; Feb 13, 2010 at 01:39 PM.
I've used that parts.com site before. Thanks for the part number.
Can you tell me more about this stuck in park problem? You mentioned a plastic piece that breaks. Do you have any pictures by any chance? Is it the shifter lock solenoid?
I've used that parts.com site before. Thanks for the part number.
Can you tell me more about this stuck in park problem? You mentioned a plastic piece that breaks. Do you have any pictures by any chance? Is it the shifter lock solenoid?
Anyway, if you do a search here or on Google, there are related discussions on the subject. There is a company in Germany, I believe, that makes a metal replacement for the plastic part and gets $150 for it. Funny thing, I was about a month out of my extended warranty last month and would have pushed MB to cover it but they just replace the entire shifter allowing the problem to occur again.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220...ml#post3577201
http://www.sc3.com.au/monoglobal/index.php?cat=2592

Many thanks for the great info. I imagine some strong plastic epoxy can do the trick
, but if not then I'll probably go for the metal piece.




). i think cause these cars ARE S/CL's that the parts are purposely made more expensive even if they really shouldn't be.just my 0.02
It sounds like a great warranty. I'll have to give them a call on Monday to see if they will cover me. My car came out of extended MB warranty in December and is running perfectly.
Tangofrog
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