Brabus ABC lowering module (need help)
Now, I cannot work out how to set it my car to 20mm/13mm/OFF position. Can anyone help with this?
Action place: Left fuse box (if you look at the car from front)
The installation, mostly soldering, took me around 4 hours to complete. Out of provided wires the only useful one that didn't require any soldering was black plug (L & H) that connects to plug 3. The rest of the wires on the Brabus module I had to solder.
Please see pictures attached with detailed instructions.
P.S.
The positions of the switch are as follows:
left position: 20millimetres lower
center position: 13millimetres lower
right position: standard height
- switch the ECU-switch to the left position,
- start the engine,
- adjust the car to its highest position using the switch in the dashboard panel,
- switch it to the lowest position, the car now will remain in the lowest possible height.
The fact that the red LED is blinking from time to time is totally correct,
this is what the module should do when everything is fine.
The red LED shows the can-data exchange betwenn the ECU`s is in progress.
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Action place: Left fuse box (if you look at the car from front)
The installation, mostly soldering, took me around 4 hours to complete. Out of provided wires the only useful one that didn't require any soldering was black plug (L & H) that connects to plug 3. The rest of the wires on the Brabus module I had to solder.
Please see pictures attached with detailed instructions.
P.S.
The positions of the switch are as follows:
left position: 20millimetres lower
center position: 13millimetres lower
right position: standard height
- switch the ECU-switch to the left position,
- start the engine,
- adjust the car to its highest position using the switch in the dashboard panel,
- switch it to the lowest position, the car now will remain in the lowest possible height.
The fact that the red LED is blinking from time to time is totally correct,
this is what the module should do when everything is fine.
The red LED shows the can-data exchange betwenn the ECU`s is in progress.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-IScTfPlwk
One of these days, I may spend some time looking at wiring diagrams and come up with a simple, cheap solution.
These sensors are, for all intents and purposes, simple potentiometers. They vary voltage or resistance based on ride height and feed that to the ride computer. The box doesn't do jack for symbyosis of agile cornering and extraordinary ride comfort. That's all handled by the factory ride computer. The box tells the ABC computer that the car is, for example, 1 inch higher than it actually is. In turn, the ABC computer lowers the car until the sensors tell it it's 1 inch lower. What the ABC computer doesn't know is that the values are incorrect, since the Brabus/Kleemann/etc is intercepting and changing those values. Of course, the same goes for the reverse, you can easily fool the ABC computer into thinking the car is too low and raise it.
All these modules do, is change this voltage/resistance and feed the altered values to the ride computer. Think of a sprint booster switch, or one of those overranging MAF sensors.
If you find a ride height you're happy with, all you have to do is to physically adjust the sensors to "permanently" lower the car. I say "permanently" because in order to change the ride height again, you'd have to crawl under the car and physically reposition the sensors.
But here's mine:
Mine will be developed jointly with Motorola, a renowned manufacturer of electronics and components - electronic components (resistors, diodes, etc), Belden wiring (Belden is one of the largest U.S.-based manufacturers of high-speed electronic cables ) and lastly, the Apple corporation - I will use a MacBook Pro to design the circuit in XCircuit.
Dropping names doesn't mean jack, really.
Either way, it's not something I'm going to actively pursue. But if I do make one for myself, I doubt I'll have $50 in parts, let alone $500+. Then again, what do I know about electronics...
Last edited by Sathinas; Sep 12, 2010 at 09:48 AM.
On a side note, I remember when a FORD dealer tried to deny warranty work on a diesel pick-up truck because I had gauges (not even a tune, just aftermarket gauges on the A Pillar). My attorney had a ton of fun with the dealership and with FORD as they said the truck was tuned. In the end, FORD settled with me rather nicely and paid my attorney's fees.
If you're referring to out of warranty costs... Eh. Crap happens. Something tells me that if a line or the pump goes, it won't be because of the lowering module.
Last edited by Sathinas; Sep 12, 2010 at 12:27 PM.







