2006 CL600 fan will not turn on, any ideas?
#1
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Join Date: Sep 2005
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2006 CL600, 2006 SL65
2006 CL600 fan will not turn on, any ideas?
hello everyone,
replaced the radiator over the weekend, now the fan would not turn on.
- car heats up to 100 C
- i am turning on the AC
- connected to SDS to do the actuation (manually turn the fan on)
still it will not turn on, any ideas?
thanks!
replaced the radiator over the weekend, now the fan would not turn on.
- car heats up to 100 C
- i am turning on the AC
- connected to SDS to do the actuation (manually turn the fan on)
still it will not turn on, any ideas?
thanks!
#2
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Location: south shore
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12' E559
i had the opposite in my 55. Fan would NOT shut off. mine went like this...new fan put in (thought it was the fan circuit)-Check all the other temp sensors. (think theres 3 in my 55k)---replaced SAM(one of the SAM modules got replaced no idea what one) . Took it to my indy shop they ran all the temp tests and checked out good.
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
original poster - you probably have a bad fan control module. on your year they are built into the fan shroud itself so you have to buy the whole unit. the cheapest i was able to get mine was about 630 dollars.
mine went bad because it took a fall from standing upright, falling down onto its side(nothing serious at all) and sure enough this was enough to fry the control module. funny to think this thing is designed to be in a car going over road irregularities and the such...630 dollar mistake...
there's a strong chance that since your fan is bad, your corresponding fuse will also be bad as well. make sure you check this first.
it's very important you look up the correct year fuse diagrams for your car if you do not have a fuse diagram yourself
my fuse looked good but upon testing it was actually blown. a visual test is not enough for a fuse
besides the fan and the fuse, there is little in that circuit (i've studied it up and down a 100 times) that could possibly be causing issues. if a sensor is bad somewhere it usually does as the second poster in this thread described - going into failsafe mode and spinning high speed all the time
mine went bad because it took a fall from standing upright, falling down onto its side(nothing serious at all) and sure enough this was enough to fry the control module. funny to think this thing is designed to be in a car going over road irregularities and the such...630 dollar mistake...
there's a strong chance that since your fan is bad, your corresponding fuse will also be bad as well. make sure you check this first.
it's very important you look up the correct year fuse diagrams for your car if you do not have a fuse diagram yourself
my fuse looked good but upon testing it was actually blown. a visual test is not enough for a fuse
besides the fan and the fuse, there is little in that circuit (i've studied it up and down a 100 times) that could possibly be causing issues. if a sensor is bad somewhere it usually does as the second poster in this thread described - going into failsafe mode and spinning high speed all the time
#4
Super Member
Good lord, I just did a similar job, and now the fan won't work.
Started the car, and the refrigerant pissed out from overpressure. Fan wouldn't start, coolant error on the dash.
I'm trying to reliably diagnose the fan but can't come up with a way how.
Started the car, and the refrigerant pissed out from overpressure. Fan wouldn't start, coolant error on the dash.
I'm trying to reliably diagnose the fan but can't come up with a way how.
#6
Super Member
I found a junkyard fan from an '05 S500.
It's a design flaw. When you disconnect the radiator w/o draining the cooling system first, the water goes into the fan connector, which isn't watertight against the controller (unless plugged in?), causing that assembly to fry itself. In the V8 you don't have to disconnect the radiator hose, but on the V12 you do.
It's a design flaw. When you disconnect the radiator w/o draining the cooling system first, the water goes into the fan connector, which isn't watertight against the controller (unless plugged in?), causing that assembly to fry itself. In the V8 you don't have to disconnect the radiator hose, but on the V12 you do.