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> I am interested in the ride quality with these springs. I see you recommend them. what i am looking for is a nice ride but not too firm. you mentioned that with the original springs it was bottoming out. Since you have done both springs what are your thoughts on ride quality with the stiffer springs.
firm like a sport car, but comfortable too
I would recommend 24kg to the front, but I am changing preload on front -1cm for now, that might do the job
> I am interested in the ride quality with these springs. I see you recommend them. what i am looking for is a nice ride but not too firm. you mentioned that with the original springs it was bottoming out. Since you have done both springs what are your thoughts on ride quality with the stiffer springs.
firm like a sport car, but comfortable too
I would recommend 24kg to the front, but I am changing preload on front -1cm for now, that might do the job
Got the rear sway bar and all of the bits needed to do the conversion. I am in the process of ordering the kit from Ceika. So final recommendations for spring rates from what i gather are 20kg front or maybe 24kg front and definitely 20kg rear. Correct? Were you able to do more pre-load on the front like you mentioned? I also hit you up on the cloned ABC warning delete on another thread. Thank You again for all of your info.
On a side note I found some struts for the trunk from AUTOFOREVER Part # 33011580 I had a hard time finding aftermarkets for the CL. Dont know if there is athread on these already But all i could find out there were around $50 a piece. These were listed for the S class and were only $16 USD for the pair delivered. There were no issues installing them and the trunk doesn't fall on the back of my head anymore.
Got the rear sway bar and all of the bits needed to do the conversion. I am in the process of ordering the kit from Ceika. So final recommendations for spring rates from what i gather are 20kg front or maybe 24kg front and definitely 20kg rear. Correct? Were you able to do more pre-load on the front like you mentioned? I also hit you up on the cloned ABC warning delete on another thread. Thank You again for all of your info
Rick
yes, 24kg front, 20kg rear is perfect
I had no time for preload but sure about this front side if you have 20kg springs
The Ceika Customer service person says they dont offer anything past 16KG. I dont understand since they offer a Race kit that they said is super stiff. I asked them to check what the rates are for the diffrent stages they offer. Here is a screen shot of their website.
get a kit from yellowspeed like me
they will give you 20kg front
then have a local company make you 20 for the rear or a 24kg and swap front and rear springs on yellospeed
Mine is a 55K im i guess it does make a little deiffrence in front end weight but i dont think the rear would be diffrent. I am waiting on their response for the diffrent rates. What have you heard about CEIKA?
Mine is a 55K im i guess it does make a little deiffrence in front end weight but i dont think the rear would be diffrent. I am waiting on their response for the diffrent rates. What have you heard about CEIKA?
to me the same as yellowspeed
they might even make them for yellowspeed as coming from the same country
This is CEIKA's response below. I am wondering if their spring rates are the same as Yellowspeed specs. I almost want to do the 22kg front and rear with the optional dual spring to soften up the first inch or so of travel. Your thoughts?
Rick On Mar 13, 2018 8:09 AM, "Gauthier from CEIKA Store" <gauthier@ceika-store.intercom-mail.com> wrote:
I just checked with my R&D we have 22kg front but for the rear it will be 22 or 16, we have nothing between 16 and 22kg.
We advise 14/10kg for a street/sport use or 16/12 16/14 for stiffer applications.
The problem is that we have to use 220mm springs front and rear minimum and we don't have all the rates available.
I think the best for you is to go with 22kg front and we can do a kit without rear springs valved for 20kg.
Looking forward to read you, let me know if you have any further questions
This is CEIKA's response below. I am wondering if their spring rates are the same as Yellowspeed specs. I almost want to do the 22kg front and rear with the optional dual spring to soften up the first inch or so of travel. Your thoughts?
Rick On Mar 13, 2018 8:09 AM, "Gauthier from CEIKA Store" <gauthier@ceika-store.intercom-mail.com> wrote:
I have not heard anything from CEIKA in a week. I have started talking to the YELLOWSPEED distributor in Florida. They are an european car service center. He has done the Yellowspeed coilover conversion on his personal CL500. He also experienced the bouncy ride everyone has complained about. I have asked him to check with Yellowspeed to be able to order a 20KG front and rear kit. My question is that with the S Class Lower Control Arms do you still use the slanted top mounts?
Thanks, Rick
I have not heard anything from CEIKA in a week. I have started talking to the YELLOWSPEED distributor in Florida. They are an european car service center. He has done the Yellowspeed coilover conversion on his personal CL500. He also experienced the bouncy ride everyone has complained about. I have asked him to check with Yellowspeed to be able to order a 20KG front and rear kit. My question is that with the S Class Lower Control Arms do you still use the slanted top mounts?
Thanks, Rick
I just got a call from King and Sons (Yellowspeed Dealer) and my kit just arrived to them. Yellowspeed did send 20kg front and 20kg Rear springs in my kit. It is to be determined whether they valved the rear for the 20kg springs. Justin King went over the top to stay on Yellowspeed to make this kit possible. I want to thank them and give them the deserved KUDOS for their help in making this possible. I will keep you posted after the install on how it rides.
King & Son Motorcars725 SW 16th Ave
Bay 2
Delray Beach, FL 33444Phone number (561) 450-7122
I just got a call from King and Sons (Yellowspeed Dealer) and my kit just arrived to them. Yellowspeed did send 20kg front and 20kg Rear springs in my kit. It is to be determined whether they valved the rear for the 20kg springs. Justin King went over the top to stay on Yellowspeed to make this kit possible. I want to thank them and give them the deserved KUDOS for their help in making this possible. I will keep you posted after the install on how it rides.
King & Son Motorcars725 SW 16th Ave
Bay 2
Delray Beach, FL 33444Phone number (561) 450-7122
I don't think that they special valved as they really don't care much
It your guy from King who forced they to move a bit
lucky you
feedback what you think about my setup you are applying
No worries mate. I have front and rear sway bars with bolts and links, front lower control arms, and a regular power steering pump with reservoir from an S500 ready to go in. I will be lowering the rear sub-frame and gutting out the hyd. lines and valve blocks all the way around also. I will try to document the whole install here for everyone to see.
Rick
No worries mate. I have front and rear sway bars with bolts and links, front lower control arms, and a regular power steering pump with reservoir from an S500 ready to go in. I will be lowering the rear sub-frame and gutting out the hyd. lines and valve blocks all the way around also. I will try to document the whole install here for everyone to see.
Rick
don't waste your time double DY threats
lowering rear frame might be interesting, it is so easy to me but I didn't explain
lookup if the steering pump has been done
also, verify all the brake line brackets, look under the rubber if lines have corrosion
good luck !
Thanks P Merc. I have been wrenching on cars all my life, I feel confident on doing the job since I pulled all the parts from the junk yard myself and learned my way around the cars there. For the install I have a lift and transmission jack with a gas tank adapter to hold the frame safely. Sorry, but what does double DY threats mean? I will check for the brake lines having corrosion. I checked the threads on the steering pump and I have everything needed. (I hope)
result is absolutely amazing, feels really strong now reminding me a Impreza, crazy for a heavy car
if you look up to the whole removal process yellow is giving in the manual, forget it
just note the length you need before mounting the back, then make your coil spring as short as possible
push down the wheel like on the picture (don't push down more then needed) , fix the top mount, extend your coil spring back to your desired length
done
don't forget, lower your car as you want, but when you accelerate, the front of the car should not go up much
that means the back is too low. most know this of course
I have an 03 S600 and after reading about your journey with yellow speed, I purchased a set of 4. They were good enough to include 20kg springs on both front and back. I have since installed them, adjusted the hight/stance and tried playing with the dampeners but the ride is still too bouncy. Sounds like your experience.
My issue is that other than being able to adjust the stance, I'm not sure how the rest of the coilovers work. I want to do what you described above to the spring, as it sounds like it has solved the bouncy issue. Do I just turn the upper adjustment ring to compress the spring (changr the preload) since I already have 20kg springs? If so, should I also do that on the front? I would appreciate any help or clarification, I am a newbie with coilovers and how each component affects the ride feel.
I have an 03 S600 and after reading about your journey with yellow speed, I purchased a set of 4. They were good enough to include 20kg springs on both front and back. I have since installed them, adjusted the hight/stance and tried playing with the dampeners but the ride is still too bouncy. Sounds like your experience.
My issue is that other than being able to adjust the stance, I'm not sure how the rest of the coilovers work. I want to do what you described above to the spring, as it sounds like it has solved the bouncy issue. Do I just turn the upper adjustment ring to compress the spring (changr the preload) since I already have 20kg springs? If so, should I also do that on the front? I would appreciate any help or clarification, I am a newbie with coilovers and how each component affects the ride feel.
Well, depends of what you mean by bouncy
With 14 kg rear it was really very bouncy
so with the 20kg rear it shouldn't be, did you verify that they are really 20KG ?
if you have 20kg and you want it even more stiffer you can increase preload by tightening the upper rings yes, but as you have nothing to measure the compression you should be careful to EXACTLY increase both sides the same by counting your turns
Well, depends of what you mean by bouncy
With 14 kg rear it was really very bouncy
so with the 20kg rear it shouldn't be, did you verify that they are really 20KG ?
if you have 20kg and you want it even more stiffer you can increase preload by tightening the upper rings yes, but as you have nothing to measure the compression you should be careful to EXACTLY increase both sides the same by counting your turns
good luck
Yes, they are 20kg as written on the springs. They said the factory would do but ,Should as you mentioned not exactly. I would imagine this is still an experiment for them on our indvidual cars... Should I do the fronts also?
Yes, they are 20kg as written on the springs. They said the factory would do but ,Should as you mentioned not exactly. I would imagine this is still an experiment for them on our indvidual cars... Should I do the fronts also?
what is bouncing ? front or rear
if front do front
if rear do the rear
This is my experience with the Yellowspeed so far. I did the 20kg front and rear and the car is too stiff for a comfortable ride. I installed the front sway bar from an S class and purchased the rear sway bar but I feel it does not need the rear since the car does not sway in turns. I feel the 20kg front and rear do not allow enough "free-sag". This creates a situation where the wheel does not travel out enough to soak up the bump correctly and the strut tops out prematurely. the harshness is mostly felt in transitions into driveways or uneven intersections where you feel a jolt as the car travels diagonally over a bump. This is compounded by the spring being too stiff and not soaking up the bump and the body of the car travels up with the bump. I released the preload from the front and I plan on releasing the preload from the rear to soften it up. the next step if that doesnt get it will be to remove the front sway bar. the sway bar links the 2 front springs together and actually adds to the stiffness. Again these are just my thoughts on what i have.
FRONT: As far as the bounce at the rear I have the dampeners on the rear at one click from fully shut. The front is at about 15 last i checked. I let all of the preload out of the front springs and it did help the stiffness but not on the bigger bumps.
REAR: I have not let the preload out of the rear yet because the 20kg sping is shorter. This makes the preload ring tuck inside the chasis too far to reach. I will have to unbolt the top of the strut and lower the assembly to release the preload on the spring.
02-20-2018, 04:25 PM
