Cl55 AMG Boot Lid Problem
Cl55 AMG Boot Lid Problem
hi i have a 2002 CL55K AMG with power boot lid.
in the last few weeks i noticed the electric motor was struggling to get the boot to rise more than 1cm but didn't think anything of it as it has always been temperamental.
I had just been letting it come up 1cm and then pushing the button with my hand to gently help it to get about 20% of the way and it goes up by itself.
However a few days ago when i tried to close the boot (never had any problems before) there was a noticeable clank noise (like metal on metal) and it got stuck about 15% away from being closed. it seems the lid actually closes at the rear first and then the part near the window seems to suck in and thats where it was stuck, i couldn't push it or anything, it just froze.
It automatically went back up and the motor seemed to be working fine, but when it was coming down, it got to around the same place (15% away from being completely closed), again clank noise and it stopped and back up again automatically.
i had to do this around 10-15 times before it eventually closed (but still with a small clank) so there is definitely something going wrong.
Has anyone experienced this? On visual inspection of the moving parts, all seems fine. Hinges/bolts etc look exactly the same either side, no visible play. This problem is happening on the same side as the electric motor (O/S i think).
I have a feeling it may be the gas struts at fault here but having difficulty identifying the problem and don't unnecessarily want to start taking things apart!!
I will try and post a picture of it when i get a chance, however i don't want to open and close it too many times as it may jam completely and not close at all!
in the last few weeks i noticed the electric motor was struggling to get the boot to rise more than 1cm but didn't think anything of it as it has always been temperamental.
I had just been letting it come up 1cm and then pushing the button with my hand to gently help it to get about 20% of the way and it goes up by itself.
However a few days ago when i tried to close the boot (never had any problems before) there was a noticeable clank noise (like metal on metal) and it got stuck about 15% away from being closed. it seems the lid actually closes at the rear first and then the part near the window seems to suck in and thats where it was stuck, i couldn't push it or anything, it just froze.
It automatically went back up and the motor seemed to be working fine, but when it was coming down, it got to around the same place (15% away from being completely closed), again clank noise and it stopped and back up again automatically.
i had to do this around 10-15 times before it eventually closed (but still with a small clank) so there is definitely something going wrong.
Has anyone experienced this? On visual inspection of the moving parts, all seems fine. Hinges/bolts etc look exactly the same either side, no visible play. This problem is happening on the same side as the electric motor (O/S i think).
I have a feeling it may be the gas struts at fault here but having difficulty identifying the problem and don't unnecessarily want to start taking things apart!!
I will try and post a picture of it when i get a chance, however i don't want to open and close it too many times as it may jam completely and not close at all!
the 2002 cl55 is not the same as the cl55k, just a heads up
your issue sounds like a leak somewhere in the trunk section of the vacuum system. there are some DIY threads on how to diagnose and repair the vacuum systems on these cars
i recommend fixing it soon, or disabling that line from your vacuum pump. these pumps are known to overheat when there are vacuum leaks and the car wont lock the doors, soft close the doors, lumbar the seats or automatically raise and lower the rear headrests without a working vacuum pump
your issue sounds like a leak somewhere in the trunk section of the vacuum system. there are some DIY threads on how to diagnose and repair the vacuum systems on these cars
i recommend fixing it soon, or disabling that line from your vacuum pump. these pumps are known to overheat when there are vacuum leaks and the car wont lock the doors, soft close the doors, lumbar the seats or automatically raise and lower the rear headrests without a working vacuum pump
the 2002 cl55 is not the same as the cl55k, just a heads up
your issue sounds like a leak somewhere in the trunk section of the vacuum system. there are some DIY threads on how to diagnose and repair the vacuum systems on these cars
i recommend fixing it soon, or disabling that line from your vacuum pump. these pumps are known to overheat when there are vacuum leaks and the car wont lock the doors, soft close the doors, lumbar the seats or automatically raise and lower the rear headrests without a working vacuum pump
your issue sounds like a leak somewhere in the trunk section of the vacuum system. there are some DIY threads on how to diagnose and repair the vacuum systems on these cars
i recommend fixing it soon, or disabling that line from your vacuum pump. these pumps are known to overheat when there are vacuum leaks and the car wont lock the doors, soft close the doors, lumbar the seats or automatically raise and lower the rear headrests without a working vacuum pump
Does that have the same vacuum system as the CL55 (pre 2002)?
Member
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 127
Likes: 14
From: San Juan PR
SL55 CL600 and 335D (rip flood) 325ci
Did you inspect the hinge that drives the lid? I bought my 05 cl600 with a broken hinge and replaced it. Mine also has the slow to rise issue. I checked the fluid level in the reservoir it's ok. I'm guessing your hinge is cracked. Easy to R&R but not easy to get it in your cars color. Oddly when I go to close my trunk it lifts the inside corner about 3/4" above where it is supposed to sit.
Did you inspect the hinge that drives the lid? I bought my 05 cl600 with a broken hinge and replaced it. Mine also has the slow to rise issue. I checked the fluid level in the reservoir it's ok. I'm guessing your hinge is cracked. Easy to R&R but not easy to get it in your cars color. Oddly when I go to close my trunk it lifts the inside corner about 3/4" above where it is supposed to sit.
it was the gas strut which had failed on the last inch of closing.
this led to the hinge bending.
Both strut and hinge replaced yesterday and everything functioning perfectly again!!
I just replaced the gas struts hoping it would fix it, now I will have to go back and inspect those hinges because it definitely feels like a bent or broken hinge. It does not want to close on the passenger side front corner. The auto open and close feature has not been working either :/
Member
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 127
Likes: 14
From: San Juan PR
SL55 CL600 and 335D (rip flood) 325ci
Hi Anthony. I have a laptop dedicated to the Star software. There is a way to "normalize" the trunk. I have that issue as well. I managed to get it to level out beautifully with the star butter discoing the battery for service I went back to doing the whacky thing of pushing the same part up and out of level in the same spot as yours. I also checked the pump fluid level and it was ok. I recommend looking around the forum and finding a PC laptop for working on the car if you don't already. I swapped out an old hinge as mine was broken. Still did the weird thing.







