ctravis595

In the process of going from naturally aspirated to forced induction, I decided to take a second look at the intake manifold. A year or two ago I decided to open the manifold and clean it out, even with detailed maintenance, the manifold was pretty grimey inside from recirculated exhaust gas (egr) and the crankcase ventilation system being sucked back through the intake...

one quick and useful solution to egr problems, or anybody looking to keep the intake manifold cleaner, is to mock up some block off plates with scrap aluminum/steel. I removed the egr altogether but there are two ways you can go about this and not experience any pesky check engine lights

one way is to bridge the two wires running to the egr with a 30ohm resistor, thus tricking the ecu to believe the egr is still functioning

another way is to insert block off plates underneath the egr valve, and leave the egr valve plugged in to the ecu.


ive tested both methods and both ways work for removing the egr system without any check engine lights for less than $10. If you simply unplug the maf you will get one code p0403

edit: I recommend using a 10 watt resistor for the 30ohm resistor. The rating will loook something like 30ohm 10 watt resistor , lower wattage rating resistors may not hold up over time

if you use too low of a wattage resistor, it can burn out and will cause p0443 and possibly some o2 sensor heater codes. If this happens you’ll have to replace the weak resistor and replace the blown fuse related to the ecu. On my car it was fuse 30 on the passenger side fuse panel

al300sd

Hi ran across your post. Have you had any issues after the delete? Just to clarify you put a plate over the intake and exhaust ends and probably plugged up the air lines? is there anything else that im missing?

ctravis595

I just blocked off the exhaust side leading to the egr valve , the intake side should have valves that remain closed, you also have to fool the ecu into believing there is still a vacuum solenoid attached to avoid check engine lights

arikinthecity

Would it be much easier to just open the primary metal pipe at the 24mm nut and put two silicone caps on both sides to close off the pipe. This would keep the assembly in place with electric sensor. With a tiny pinhole in one of the caps it would trick the egr sensor into thinking that Air is still moving. No need to adjust ecu code and you can restore the entire system if needed for any emissions inspection or to go to the Mercedes dealer for warranty work😂. Please respond and let me know if that would work.