I have a CL600.
I had a new keyless go set up a few month ago. I went to wash the car. Queuing. I stopped. Waited for cars to move forward. I restart the car with the start button on the gear lever while having the key in the ignition (but not turn on). The car i moved forward but I noticed a rumble. I stop the car. Removed the key. I couldn’t restart with the card alone nor by turning the key. The only thing was the engine ventilator switching on to the max.
i disconnected the battery, re plugged it etc… nothing.

did anyone had this?
did anyone had issue of the sort because of a key less go?
Is it a relay on the starting sequence or a known issue on the electronic?
the electricity is fine. The car can be closed / open with key etc…

 

My CL500 doesn't have keyless go, but not too long ago I had an issue with the car not starting, The starter relay was not even clicking. What it ended up being was a little 60 Amp fuse that is connected to a fuse block underneath the front passenger side footwell. The fuse is connected to the electronic ignition system (EIS) so the key was not passing through 'security' and thus was not allowing the car to start. It's not that hard to get to so I would check and see if that fuse is blown. You'll have to remove the front passenger floormat, grab the top of the foot rest carpet, then pull it toward you and fold it flat, you may have to bend it a bit to clear the bottom of the dashboard. After that you may see a large flat piece of Styrofoam (if so, pull it out) or a metal plate. Once you're at the metal plate there will be a couple (or three) 10 mm nuts. Take those off then pull the plate out, then you should see the fuse block with large red wires going into it. I would STOP here and disconnect the battery if you haven't already. There is a black plastic cover which you'll have to remove then you can check the fuses. On my car there are 3 fuses, one is a big 200 amp, one 60 amp (the problem child), and one 150 amp. Check them all for continuity with a multimeter. FYI if the fuse ends up being bad then you have trouble finding a replacement locally like I did. I checked with 8 different auto-parts/hardware/electronics stores in my town before giving up and harvesting one out of another CL in the junkyard. I found them online quickly but I didn't want to wait before it for arrive before I could drive my car again. They are called midi fuses, so when you find out which one is bad, I would order a couple extras as they are cheap. Just make sure to get the right size and amperage. If that doesn't end up being the problem, then I apologize for all the troubles, but it's a simple fix for a not so common problem.

 

Thanks! This is a very detailed answer. I’ll try it and keep you posted. The car is at the mechanic so (I had to have a trailer taking it away from the car wash) I’ll try it on Monday. And update the post if it helps on my case.

 

Hello
After a long time at the mechanic, because the behavior was not consistent : sometimes the car was starting, sometimes not. It was identified that it was the «main calculator” (not sure of translation). It was sent to get fixed (as you cannot order a new one). Came back, the car works fine since then.
Not sure how frequent is this but it was a real pain to identify and get fix.



The next fixes on the list : The car lowers itself after a few nights on the right but I already know it’s a small leak on a suspension valve. A rear light damaged by a bicycle today…🤯.
And the fact that when hot and after being solicited, I feel misfires (and I have a P0304). But only if hot and pushed a little bit. I ll study this one but the weird thing is why after being pushed and not always (if it s a spark plug for example)