CL55 Picture Thread
#228
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CL55, SL600
actually good question!
I learned of it during my Infiniti G35 coupe days on various forums..Zaino is a little known show-car polish that goes by the nickname "liquid gold" to those who know The depth of the finish actually gets deeper with each new coat you apply. Has to be seen in person to truly appreciate tho-
#229
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04 CL55 (sold), 2012 CLS550 (sold), 2014 S550 (sold), 2015 ES300H (DAILY)
I learned of it during my Infiniti G35 coupe days on various forums..Zaino is a little known show-car polish that goes by the nickname "liquid gold" to those who know The depth of the finish actually gets deeper with each new coat you apply. Has to be seen in person to truly appreciate tho-
#231
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CL55, SL600
Ha! I used to get that all the time before i put new "shoes" on mine as well
As far as the Zaino, i've never seen it in stores and to my knowledge can be obtained from an independent rep in your area or their website www.zainobros.com
As far as the Zaino, i've never seen it in stores and to my knowledge can be obtained from an independent rep in your area or their website www.zainobros.com
#232
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GL450
Yung, that really glows with that wax.
Dan, looks good. Love the carbon. You might think about having the wheels professionally refinished black or gunmetal to match the rest of the blacked out look, instead of getting all new rims.
Dan, looks good. Love the carbon. You might think about having the wheels professionally refinished black or gunmetal to match the rest of the blacked out look, instead of getting all new rims.
#236
#240
I'm thinking about using the lowering links but still doing some research! I don't want it to mess up my ABC system. Do you have any suggestions?
#241
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04 CL55 (sold), 2012 CLS550 (sold), 2014 S550 (sold), 2015 ES300H (DAILY)
I am thinking of using STAR lowering because they say that I can bring it back to stock height using the raise button above my radio
Wish I could help you more but sadly, won't know much more until I get it done myself...eventually..
#242
Guys over at HMS recommend using lowering links, and guys over at Benz Works recommend STAR lowering...so yea, I'm kind of in the same position as you are haha . But from what I know so far, both methods won't affect your ABC system at all.
I am thinking of using STAR lowering because they say that I can bring it back to stock height using the raise button above my radio
Wish I could help you more but sadly, won't know much more until I get it done myself...eventually..
I am thinking of using STAR lowering because they say that I can bring it back to stock height using the raise button above my radio
Wish I could help you more but sadly, won't know much more until I get it done myself...eventually..
I will give my MB dealer a call and discuss it more with them! thanks tho
#243
Senior Member
Guys over at HMS recommend using lowering links, and guys over at Benz Works recommend STAR lowering...so yea, I'm kind of in the same position as you are haha . But from what I know so far, both methods won't affect your ABC system at all.
I am thinking of using STAR lowering because they say that I can bring it back to stock height using the raise button above my radio
Wish I could help you more but sadly, won't know much more until I get it done myself...eventually..
I am thinking of using STAR lowering because they say that I can bring it back to stock height using the raise button above my radio
Wish I could help you more but sadly, won't know much more until I get it done myself...eventually..
Last edited by SLCL; 09-10-2011 at 11:23 PM. Reason: More info
#244
#245
Senior Member
Raise button works normally. The highest setting right now is slightly lower than the lowest setting before the drop.
The downside though, unless you buy camber kits and do proper alignment, it will eat your tires in no time! If you are racing alot, expect to replace the rear tires around 6K miles. I drag on to 8K miles but the car shakes above 80 mph. The front tires last a bit longer (with alignment of course).
Where are you located?
#246
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MB; 55KCL AMG, SL550 SLS AMG G500 Cabrio 280SL ML350 CLS550 ML500 E55 AMG CL500 S600 SLK32 AMG
Yup I made the link myself (with the help from the forum which you can search). With the tools and all, it cost about $70. If you already had the tools, it should cost less than $50. You can buy the "professional" lowering kit for $325
Raise button works normally. The highest setting right now is slightly lower than the lowest setting before the drop.
The downside though, unless you buy camber kits and do proper alignment, it will eat your tires in no time! If you are racing alot, expect to replace the rear tires around 6K miles. I drag on to 8K miles but the car shakes above 80 mph. The front tires last a bit longer (with alignment of course).
Where are you located?
Raise button works normally. The highest setting right now is slightly lower than the lowest setting before the drop.
The downside though, unless you buy camber kits and do proper alignment, it will eat your tires in no time! If you are racing alot, expect to replace the rear tires around 6K miles. I drag on to 8K miles but the car shakes above 80 mph. The front tires last a bit longer (with alignment of course).
Where are you located?
Looks awesome tho
#247
Yup I made the link myself (with the help from the forum which you can search). With the tools and all, it cost about $70. If you already had the tools, it should cost less than $50. You can buy the "professional" lowering kit for $325
Raise button works normally. The highest setting right now is slightly lower than the lowest setting before the drop.
The downside though, unless you buy camber kits and do proper alignment, it will eat your tires in no time! If you are racing alot, expect to replace the rear tires around 6K miles. I drag on to 8K miles but the car shakes above 80 mph. The front tires last a bit longer (with alignment of course).
Where are you located?
Raise button works normally. The highest setting right now is slightly lower than the lowest setting before the drop.
The downside though, unless you buy camber kits and do proper alignment, it will eat your tires in no time! If you are racing alot, expect to replace the rear tires around 6K miles. I drag on to 8K miles but the car shakes above 80 mph. The front tires last a bit longer (with alignment of course).
Where are you located?
I live in Arizona
#248
Senior Member
The professional lowering links are probably slightly better than the home made ones unless you could buy a solid rod ends. The lowering modules might be even better but it costs a whole lot more.
The car shakes because my tires worn out too much. It could be because of the links like the other poster said but I didn't feel the shake when the tires were new.
Rubbing or not is a matter of tire size and offset. Lower like mine should not rub if you have the correct wheel offset and tire size.
Unfortunately you are not local so I could show you what I was talking about. Good luck with [whatever] your decision.
The car shakes because my tires worn out too much. It could be because of the links like the other poster said but I didn't feel the shake when the tires were new.
Rubbing or not is a matter of tire size and offset. Lower like mine should not rub if you have the correct wheel offset and tire size.
Unfortunately you are not local so I could show you what I was talking about. Good luck with [whatever] your decision.