I have a problem with the driver side windows. When the door is opened, the front and rear windows drop down for the door to be opened, but they don't pop back up when the door is shut. You either have to shut the door several times, or manually raise the windows. The problem is intermittent, sometimes works ok, other-times not.
Has anyone else had this problem, and can offer any advice? Went to a local shop, they hooked up a computer to the system, but they couldn't replicate the problem.
I greatly appreciate any help.

 

Something in the window mech needs to know its position to work properly. Try to disconnect the battery for a few seconds. then auto lower all 4 windows and then auto up all of them, that should "reset" it.

 

Try looking through the User Manual....I think you have to press all 4 window buttons up and hold it for a second or something like that to recalibrate the windows? I'm not sure, but I remember reading it in there.

 

I hadn't been on the board for a while and I came to look for advice on this very same issue. Just put all windows down and then up together and the problem appears to be fixed. Saved us a 2 hour ride for service. This place is awesome. Thanks!

 

I have to agree ! Great info !

 

Spoke too soon. Didn't fix problem. Manual states to push buttons 1 and 4 up but that also failed.

 

First of all, thanks to all who took the time to reply. This was a real head scratcher.
Turns out that the control module in the door that controls the window mechanism(and so much more) is not getting power. It was working intermittently, then stopped completely at the end, leaving the window half down. They traced it to a power wire in the wiring harness from the body to the door.
Since I have an extended warranty, they wanted to replace the harness, at a price of $2200 for the harness, and 25hrs labors. The warranty people choked on that, and said just fix the wire, which is where I am now. If any future problems occur, they will replace the harness.

All that because the stupid window would work...

 

This example of wiring harness 'fix or replace' perfectly illustrates how the MBZ cars get their reputation for astronomically high maintenance costs. However, we do not have all the 'facts.' The subject wiring harness may have been a NOS from the early 90's with the 'bio-degradable insulation' and thus the entire harness SHOULD be replaced due to risk of a short and wire.

Dealer practice (usually) is 'restore to as-new condition' which usually means replacing assemblies rather than repairing the component which failed. The 'warranty' for 6-12 months is Very Expensive and profitable taken as a whole.

Dealers today have to make their 'profit' from SERVICE and PARTS operations and not from auto sales, which usually just cover 'fixed costs.'

In summary, MBZ Dealership Service is going to be very expensive as compared to good Independent shop.

Another example of needlessly costly repairs is the ABC system--which is similar in function, but much less capable than the Nissan's Active Suspension on the 89-95 Infiniti Q45a cars. The Infiniti's NEVER had hydraulic hose failures or seal leaks as does the ABC system. Nor do Citroen's. The hydraulic hoses used in all MBZ suspensions is far more 'failure prone' than that in any U.S.,Japanese or other European vehicle, The MBZ 'rubber' parts in general have very short life-times as the 'rubber' deteriorates quickly. Replacing these low quality hoses with like (from Mercedes) is crazy. It is almost as if MBZ deliberately uses the lowest quality, shortest useful life 'rubber.'. Good, long lived 'rubber' IS available in Europe and costs little more.

Most any independent Hydraulic Hose shop can replace the 'rubber hose' with U.S. made industrial quality for far lower cost and that 'rubber' will never leak or burst again.