So when I bought the car, I asked the salesman (who was an actual friend of an actual friend) if they had changed the oil and filter. He assured me that they had. So I've been happily driving along, with the service reminder saying I need my next service in 4,000 miles. So, being conscientious, I decide to change my oil early today (personally).

So I pulled out the filter. Black. Sucked in and twisted. I wanted to puke just a little.

So in the process of removing it (it didn't look anything like the Mann/German/Fleece (I think that last part is about their pricing policy) that I bought four of to be prepared.

So as I'm pulling it off it disintegrates. Literally. Little wafers of cardboard everywhere. So I look on the bottom of it and it proudly says "China".

So I jack it up and remove the center guard and remove the drain plug. Not good. Very dark. When I was cleaning the pan out it flowed down the wall in clumps like sludge. Sniffling a little now.

It finally quit draining (not quite like axle grease but a near relative) so I closed it back up and lowered the car.

When I'm putting the new filter kit in, I see that there is one more O ring in the kit than I removed. It was obvious there was a double ring at the bottom of the filter. (Tricky instructions with the filter, but I figured it out - you need to make sure the filter is pushed way up to the top of the inside of the cap.)

So I checked the oil (no dip stick) when it was empty just to see what it said. It said I needed 2 quarts. It kept saying that until I had 8 quarts in it. Then the message changed to something about make sure I change the oil at the appropriate interval. It wouldn't give me the satisfaction of saying "full" or "Good Job" or "You did it right". Just kind of a "move along" message. I presume that means its full. Any tips here? Anyone? Bueller?

So now I feel like I just avoided a coronary. Advice, never believe a salesman. I even had a mechanic (Spent like $350) to check it out before I bought it. No heads up at all. WTF?

As an aside I was filling up my tires. I recently have been using this handy little dial gauge that is extremely responsive and easy to read. Put my preferred amount of air in all the tires and got in the car and check the pressures on my computer. Each tire was 11 pounds more inflated than my gauge said. PHUQUE ME. No wonder my right rear tire is bald in the middle. MFSOB. So I bought a couple of pressure gauges so I can check one against the other.

MAN! You can't trust anyone.

So was 8 quarts enough?

Also, the oil wasn't very warm when I changed it, so I'm going to do the entire process again in a month, just to get it all cleaned out. I want to be able to sleep at night.

 

On a complete drain, 8 qts is correct. I usuall end up putting in 7.75 qts or so, but I don't drain, I top suck from the dip stick tube.

As for the o-rings, the filters come with an extra o-ring that isn't used on the W215. Toss it in a bag as you never know when you will need a o-ring that size

My filter (OEM Fleece) is always tar black at oil change time. I've always said that synthetic oil may not break down but it sure gets dirty especially only getting filtered through a tiny filter.

 

I LOVE you man! You made my month. Thanks for the perspective.

I didn't think it had a dipstick tube. I thought that tube in front was for the transmission. I have the sucker gizmo too. I just ordered 10 of those 32 cent copper smashable washers for future use.

The damn thing always ran perfectly. No smoke, etc. I swear there will never be another nano of wear on this motor. I'm going to change the oil like underwear from now on.

I really appreciate it.

 

And I am sure glad that Chinese filter didn't disintegrate while it was still in the car. It was soooo close. I'm having flashbacks of that. PTSD.

 

HEY! Why didn't any of you tell the the obvious? There IS a dipstick. I have been assuming that there wasn't one. This is because of two things: my CLK didn't have one, so I concluded that all Mercs didn't. Dumba$$! And of course, since the dash computer measure the oil, I figured there would be no redundancy. But it was right there on the front left, staring at me. The transmission tube just has a plug, and I was also remembering that from the transmission service I did. Had to borrow the dip stick (apparently an "accessory" item costing about $100). So I was just looking at the ring for the oil dipstick with brain in neutral.

I'd appreciate it if you guys woudn't assume that I know anything. Even the obvious, in hindsight.

And confirming. 8 quarts put it at the 3/4 full level on the stick (which clearly exists).

 

Sounds like you dodged a major bullet. Good job man. In my manual it says 7.5L is capacity. The oil sensor on these cars go like no tomorrow. Just use the dip stick for appropriate measurements. ALWAYS use OEM filters (now you know never trust those dealers), non OEM filters suck. Member GT-ER did some trial and error on this topic (do a search).

 

That's how I feel. Nuclear Bomb dodged.

While ignorant of my dipstick and relying on the dash/computer I put 8 quarts in. When it was cold, but after it had run a few minutes the day before, that made it read at 75% of the OK zone on the dipstick. Then, after running it for about 5 miles and heating it up, it was just a tad over the top of the OK zone.

 

So there is a dipstick? I gotta check, I was led to believe the CL65 didn't have one either, or do all W215's get one? Or Just the Cl55?

Thx

 

The CL65 doesn't have a dip stick.

R.K.

 

My 2005 CL55 do not have dipstick and the manual says 8qts of engine fluid (interestingly, my M113 engine SL500 says 8.5 qts in the manual!)

I change my oil at every 5K miles (on all my car). I make it at 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, etc thousand miles on the odometer so it's easy to remember. The oil looks really good at 5K miles interval. Authentic filters (has MB logo on it) sold for around $11.xx at parts dot come plus shipping so I order a bunch at the time since both my MB use the same filter.

 

Yup, your right, doesn't come with one but you can get one for your M275 engine:

http://www.startekinfo.de/etools/con...2000%2021%2000

 

Where would you insert it?

R.K.

 

... not draining but sucking results in said clumps and artery disease in engines. especially on german cars where extended oil intervals are standard practice.

always drain from bottom and always make sure oil is hot. do not suck. sucking is for boats.

if i was you before the next oil change i would pour some seafoam in the oil and drive around town for few days or so without pushing the engine. then drain oil. does wonders to oil passageways.

 

Well that sucks. I have seafoam for my bike engines, so how much is "some"? This sounds pretty scary. Has anyone done this and then had their engine last another 100K miles?

 

Top sucking vs. bottom draining.

I used to feel the same as ALX. I assumed bottom draining was the only way.

I have to tell you though, I top sucked for several years. I ended up having to replace my oil level sensor which is located in the oil pan.

Therefore I top sucked and then removed the oil pan. NO SLUDGE what so ever. I was amazed.

Mobil-1 Synthetic oil is very good.

Either way, change your oil and filter. Keep things clean.

 

You are THE BEST! Great info. So I didn't waste $80 on my sucker and sucking isn't that bad. Good news.