shardul

iTrader: (1)

Yes it is super easy to hook up a manual boost gauge on these car. Just T in the boost gauge on the first map sensor.

radride

These little turbo's spool really fast and if they hit the wastegate pressure, the wastegates will open right away making the car feel like it has no boost. The bov will not be audible due to it having basically no pressure to dump.

R.K.

saintz

I can see the wastegate pressure line goes into a metal hard line that runs under the coil pack. Where does it connect from there? Does it loop back into the same controller as the diverter line? There are so many pressure/vacuum lines running all over, it is really hard to diagnose. I found the line feeding the diverter had dry rot and was leaking, so I replaced that, but it's hard trying to locate other lines that may have a leak.

radride

Saintz, if there are lines that are leaking due to being split or dry rott, that can be the issue. You need to find a vacuum line diagram for the car and start looking/replacing those lines.

Goodluck.

R.K.

saintz

I suspect that when I pinched the one line, it caused the other lines that are T'd in to rupture where they were already a little soft from rot/heat. So there's probably one bad line somewhere. Off to search!

radride

A very good possibility.

R.K.

driveability

I see this an old thread but did you ever find out what was going on ?
Just connected a boost gauge and seems I'm only seeing 15 lbs max. Car runs smooth and has new coils. I haven't done much other than look around the engine bay. The air filter housings and things need to be removed to even get near the turbos etc. The fact I get 15 lbs should give a clue, and I haven't ever herd any kind of blow-off valve sounds at all. I just figured it was designed to be quiet.

driveability

I'll respond to my own question this way.
Since I don't hear any blow-off @ 15 lbs is ether because you just don't here a CL65's pop or its going else where. I don't here any air leaks hissing away under the hood ether. I am leaning to the waist gates, they are something that would effect boost levels with little noise or any service light, well not at 15 psi. Maybe one or both are mis-adjusted, leaking etc. There should be a vacuum signal to tap into and evaluate. I'm guessing they are hard to access ? What about this ?

driveability

Hello put down the fork and spoon

shardul

iTrader: (1)

PM sent call me I know what your problem is I had the same issue last week.

saintz

15 psi is a pretty good bit, so you're making some boost. I had what appeared to be none. I never got the issue resolved.

There are two lines that drop by the coil packs down to the turbo, one for waste gate and one for diverter (BOV). You can easily access both lines where they come up on top of the engine (just eyeball them on the turbo connection and trace them back up). May want to remove the airboxes to see better.

radride

So you're still driving the car without boost saintz?

R.K.

freestylebiker3

hello sorry haven't been on in ages. after months and months and more months of diag and thousands of dollars in parts i still haven't found out why it only boosts 15psi, i recently changed my coil rail and i know for a fact there isn't any type of misfire. so i just made my self just believe that's just how they are ........ for the blow off sound.. majority off factory "blow off valves" recirculate which is why they are so quite.. if you figure out the problem please let us all know

thanks vic

driveability

shardul

iTrader: (1)

were all the lines going into the control valve on the passenger side valve cover fine?

driveability

Yes, the vacuum lines in question were fine. I still need to look further in the direction of the vacuum source which would be the intake port at the back of the engine. I did get vacuum but only 7 inches so I would like to make sure its not leaking somewhere behind the valve cover. What engine makes 7 inch's of vacuum at idle ? None except one with a big cam. The 65 should make more than that. Unless its PWM through the control valve. I think I will apply 7 inches of vacuum to the blow off and see if it operates, I can here it operate using a vacuum pump but I can't here it move with the engine running. My guess is the valve will work fine with the above low vacuum number. I just have to look around a bit more.

bluto

How much boost can these engines handle for maximum power?

How much boost do they run to get 700-800hp at the crank?

alx

21-23 pounds is safe. this will give you about 670hp at the crank

shardul

iTrader: (1)

at idle i am making 18 inhg to 20 inhg of vacumm

WHTEVO

I think i will hook up a boost guage just to see where i am at too although i am pretty confident my car runs just fine. I haven't driven any other 65 series cars to compare but am curious now as to where i am at. Will hopefully report back if the weather clears up this weekend and i take the car out.

Shardul, what was your issue with the low boost that you were having?

Aaron

shardul

iTrader: (1)

a vacuum line from the back of the intake manifold that goes to the divertor valve controller was broken.

driveability

That is what I would expect to see from a straight connection to the intake. I did my test from the blow off valve area. I'll check now that the engine is cold and post the numbers. BTW the engine runs very smooth as it should, surely not like one with a gapping huge ugly (LOL) vacuum leak.

driveability

It seems I have a single vacuum line, small plastic one on the passenger valve cover that is not connected to anything. It does have vacuum there. Both the solenoids there have all the lines connected. One has a vent and one does not.

A picture would help me out. Having trouble downloading my pictures from my phone to my computer. Seems I have lost all my drivers, to my printer, camera and phone. Not nice !

driveability

Just to add I did remove the driver side h/e and found one solenoid. There were three ports, only two were being used ? The one pointing to the rear of the car had nothing connected. I connected them, the one from the passenger side to the driver side solenoid. the with no change/ really less boost but its a 95 degree day. Saw only 7 pounds of boost with a slight spike at throttle close. I need to drive it with my scanner to look at air temps. I have to check my laptop, I had a spare engine & transmission at one time and did snap a ton of shots.
IF I find some I will post them for you all

shardul

iTrader: (1)

the one under the driver side is the boost control valve, one of the ports have to be open to the atmosphere.
look at these pics and you will see how all the lines are supposed to run. call me you have my number if you have more questions