robertrebussini

It doesn't happen all the time but when I come out to my car it seems like the rear shocks let go and is sitting real low. This morning it was fine, I went to an apt, when I I came out it happend on the opposite side and the car is sitting on the back tire. The warning light said "car is too low to drive". I had to use the air lift on the suspension to raise the car to drive it. again it does not happen all the time.

any ideas?

radride

First of all, we don't have air suspensions. Ours are hydraulic. It sounds like your rear valve block needs replacing.

R.K.

robertrebussini

shows you how much I know about cars, you could have told me there were 490 real horses under the hood and I would have believed you! Thanks

CharlestonN

My front right drops on my car when it's off and my tech said it was the valves, is there a way to replace the valves without replacing the entire shock or is it more cost effective to just replace the whole thing?

airtony

I had this problem for 3 years now. Lol I was told what it is and it's not a valve

OCKlasse

It is the valve block. The seals are wearing and the fluid is passing through. The reason it doesn't do it when you're driving is because the ABC pump is maintaining pressure to keep the corner lifted.

CharlestonN

Yeah, i figured as much as about the block seals

Another thing my car does is if i hit a bump at a decent speed the suspension will 'jump' all the way up and get stuck there (like 5-6 inches over highest setting) until i turn off the car at which point it drops back own to normal

This should be part of the shock's valve seals being bad right?

OCKlasse

Does this happen to both the front and rear of the car together? If so, it does not sound valve block related. I wonder if this is related to the pressure relief valve and possible bad pulsation damper?

calgary

Your tech might be correct, if he thinks it is the valves. The valves can be repaired - approx. $400 by a shop in Vancouver, BC. - There is a video on the W215 forum. No need to replace the entire shock (strut) unless it leaks oil. Valve block and strut are completely different items on the car.

CharlestonN

The entire car raises up but it seams to only be triggered if i hit a bump/dip in the front right (the corner that drops first when off)

I noticed that right after the ABC Fluid system is completely flushed and refilled (after i had the pump replaced then again after having a hose replaced) that the car doesn't do this and doesn't start to sag either for about 3-4 days after being refilled also the ride is much more solid (like it was when i first bought it) for those 3-4 days

What does that sound like? There is no fluid leaking anywhere unless it's in the oil pan so it has to be something internal

The tech i took it to for the ABC work told me to replace my front right shock but that i should replace both fronts at the same time which is fine but i don't want to replace them just to find out i could have just reconditioned the valve block or replaced an expansion reservoir

When i had another tech check it out and do a 15 minutes rodeo test he told me he was getting an error from the front right and rear left shocks but i didn't have time for him to do a 'complete' rodeo test while i was there which he said would take about 90 minutes?

Anyway, the 'ABC visit workshop' error has been there since i bought the car and other than replacing the pump and a hose i haven't had any problems from it but i'd like to have it fixed anyway just because of the suspension popping up issue, it rarely does it but it's still annoying to have to pull over and restart the car if i hit a bump the wrong way

CharlestonN

I live in California and i asked my tech here about the process and he said he had not done it before and wasn't sure about the time it would take so he didn't know how much it would cost

I guess i can find the video and send it to him so he can see what i'm talking about

Most of the private shops out here are very 'by the book' and just do what the dealer recommends so i usually have to do stuff like this myself but hopefully he will be able do it for me, i don't think a $400 job is worth driving to Vancouver

robertrebussini

Hey Guys,

My auto trunks stopped closing today. It opens fine, but the button to close is not on and I have to manually close it. Is it something that I can rest, a fuse. PLEASE don't make me go to the dealership!

radride

Which button isn't working? The one on the door or the trunk?

R.K.

robertrebussini

it's the buttons inside the trunk on the lid. Lights are not on. Like I said opens fine with key and inside door . only when closing

calgary

I did not suggest that you drive to Vancouver. Neither did I, but I showed the video to my technician and he did the overhaul accordingly.

radride

You need to replace the trunk harness. I had the same problem. Its a ***** of a job. Budget 2-3 hours to do it if you're doing it yourself.

R.K.

robertrebussini

great, the latch locks on the way up and you have to mannually unlock it when you close the trunk

w4sim

Im having the same problem with one of my rear struts, where can i find this video please?

Thanks.

CharlestonN

This is the video i found on it -

w4sim

Thanks Charleston, but i think it might be something different for mine. I had it put on STAR and was told that the valve on/in the rear left strut was stuck in the CLOSED position. The suspension seems to work fine and on a RODEO all 4 struts were going up and down, but once every day i get the message "ABC - Visit Workshop", this message is White and not Red.

I had the ABC fluid flush done just incase it would free it up but unfortunately this has not worked. I am being told i need another complete strut as this valve is part of it, is this true? And can this valve not be serviced/repaired/reconditoned???

Thanks.

CharlestonN

I actually had the tech tell me the same thing, mine was front right and rear left valve stuck in closed position but apparently this can be caused by an incorrectly pressurized ABC system which can be caused by that valve block i would imagine

Mine didn't pull up any errors right after being refilled which is why i think it just has to do with the system not being pressurized completely

w4sim

When we did the Rodeo on mine, the pressure started at about 160-170 BAR, then as the rodeo was happening it worked itself down to about 100 BAR (this probably took about 5-6 minutes), then the rodeo would stop for about 10 seconds, the pressure would instantly shoot back up to about 160-170 BAR and the whole thing would start again.

The pressure did not go above 170 BAR and never really went below 100 BAR. Is this good or bad? I think its pretty reasonable.

And have you managed to get yours sorted or are you going to get that valve rebuilt before replacing any of the struts?

CharlestonN

I still need to do a FULL rodeo test which takes about 90 minutes i believe before i make a decision on having the block reconditioned or replacing the strut(s)

I will let you know what happens

w4sim

Sorry if i sound arrogant, but i thought a full Rodeo was about 15mins long.

Unless he's going to test each strut, then side to side, then back to front etc etc.

If you can keep us updated on this then that would be much appreciated, but if you can also check your pressure when getting the rodeo done and let us know what that was please. If yours is the same as mine then we could both be in the same boat.

CharlestonN

From what my tech told me it sounded like the star diagnostic system has different 'levels' of rodeo test and 90 minutes is the test that thoroughly tests the entire system and tells you exactly what's causing a problem

I'll ask him exactly next time i go there