replaced cracked radiator..
#1
replaced cracked radiator..
I got my radiator replace the other day because it had a crack... I had the leak for a couple weeks hoping it would be a hose or something but when I finally had time to bring it to my mechanic he pointed out that it was a crack. He said it cracked because my car is too low. Is that possible? My car is pretty much slammed and I drive my car daily.
#2
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 70
Likes: 3
From: Flower Mount TX
2005 cl65 AMG, 2014 e63s AMG
This is interesting... I recently had my radiator replaced under similar circumstances... It started to leak around the upper radiator hose. Turned out that the end tank was cracked. My car is also *very* low (probably too low to be honest)... I never even considered it to be related to the ride height. Honestly, I can't see how the ride hide could have caused a crack around the upper radiator hose but I suppose anything is possible.
I will be following this thread with interest.
-LeoD
I will be following this thread with interest.
-LeoD
#3
This is interesting... I recently had my radiator replaced under similar circumstances... It started to leak around the upper radiator hose. Turned out that the end tank was cracked. My car is also *very* low (probably too low to be honest)... I never even considered it to be related to the ride height. Honestly, I can't see how the ride hide could have caused a crack around the upper radiator hose but I suppose anything is possible.
I will be following this thread with interest.
-LeoD
I will be following this thread with interest.
-LeoD
#4
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 70
Likes: 3
From: Flower Mount TX
2005 cl65 AMG, 2014 e63s AMG
Very interesting... I know my car rides A LOT rougher lowered. It looks cool but I'm not certain it is worth the added risk/cost (see my other thread on tire wear). I'm going to be dumping my "links" and going for a module... The thought of my car lowering even lower than it is at 60+ is down right un-nerving.
Mine is too low to begin with... I can only drive it in the highest setting (on the dash) or I will rub...
I have to say I liked the way the car rode much better at stock height but the 4 finger gap between the tire and fender drove me nuts!
So did you already get your radiator replaced? My Indie said it took him every bit of 7.5 hours to swap out... They had to remove the front clip (at least that's what he said... I don't have photo's to prove it) but that caught me by surprise for sure..
Keep us posted...
BTW) I've had my car for almost two years and other than tires and service this is the only expense... I see so many people posting about outrageous bills I thought I would throw my experience into the mix +1 for CL65!
Mine is too low to begin with... I can only drive it in the highest setting (on the dash) or I will rub...
I have to say I liked the way the car rode much better at stock height but the 4 finger gap between the tire and fender drove me nuts!
So did you already get your radiator replaced? My Indie said it took him every bit of 7.5 hours to swap out... They had to remove the front clip (at least that's what he said... I don't have photo's to prove it) but that caught me by surprise for sure..
Keep us posted...
BTW) I've had my car for almost two years and other than tires and service this is the only expense... I see so many people posting about outrageous bills I thought I would throw my experience into the mix +1 for CL65!
#5
Very interesting... I know my car rides A LOT rougher lowered. It looks cool but I'm not certain it is worth the added risk/cost (see my other thread on tire wear). I'm going to be dumping my "links" and going for a module... The thought of my car lowering even lower than it is at 60+ is down right un-nerving.
Mine is too low to begin with... I can only drive it in the highest setting (on the dash) or I will rub...
I have to say I liked the way the car rode much better at stock height but the 4 finger gap between the tire and fender drove me nuts!
So did you already get your radiator replaced? My Indie said it took him every bit of 7.5 hours to swap out... They had to remove the front clip (at least that's what he said... I don't have photo's to prove it) but that caught me by surprise for sure..
Keep us posted...
BTW) I've had my car for almost two years and other than tires and service this is the only expense... I see so many people posting about outrageous bills I thought I would throw my experience into the mix +1 for CL65!
Mine is too low to begin with... I can only drive it in the highest setting (on the dash) or I will rub...
I have to say I liked the way the car rode much better at stock height but the 4 finger gap between the tire and fender drove me nuts!
So did you already get your radiator replaced? My Indie said it took him every bit of 7.5 hours to swap out... They had to remove the front clip (at least that's what he said... I don't have photo's to prove it) but that caught me by surprise for sure..
Keep us posted...
BTW) I've had my car for almost two years and other than tires and service this is the only expense... I see so many people posting about outrageous bills I thought I would throw my experience into the mix +1 for CL65!
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,630
Likes: 9
From: Chicago
W215 V12TT Build by Speedriven, W221 S550 4Matic
Got my radiator replaced last week, paid $700 after parts and labor. My mechanic said it took him almost the whole day to replace it too but he only charged me for three hours of labor. He also said he had to remove the front clip. I feel you on the gap between wheels and fenders, I hate it too but I think getting a module would be best. Drive at stock height and slam it when parked.
#7
cracked because car is low... LOL
They all leaked and cracked from the same spot all of my S or CL. Check your motor mounts. Engine lifts up if mounts are bad and the upper rad hose doesn't have that much extension play.
Check your CL fenders I bet there are starting to crack too from the inside where it is bolted, maybe your mechanic is leaning on them too much is what someone will tell you instead of they are a crappy design and they crack on every CL out there
They all leaked and cracked from the same spot all of my S or CL. Check your motor mounts. Engine lifts up if mounts are bad and the upper rad hose doesn't have that much extension play.
Check your CL fenders I bet there are starting to crack too from the inside where it is bolted, maybe your mechanic is leaning on them too much is what someone will tell you instead of they are a crappy design and they crack on every CL out there
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#9
cracked because car is low... LOL
They all leaked and cracked from the same spot all of my S or CL. Check your motor mounts. Engine lifts up if mounts are bad and the upper rad hose doesn't have that much extension play.
Check your CL fenders I bet there are starting to crack too from the inside where it is bolted, maybe your mechanic is leaning on them too much is what someone will tell you instead of they are a crappy design and they crack on every CL out there
They all leaked and cracked from the same spot all of my S or CL. Check your motor mounts. Engine lifts up if mounts are bad and the upper rad hose doesn't have that much extension play.
Check your CL fenders I bet there are starting to crack too from the inside where it is bolted, maybe your mechanic is leaning on them too much is what someone will tell you instead of they are a crappy design and they crack on every CL out there
#10
They won`t crack from being to low. No way to hit the rad on the ground and just because it rides rougher, should not cause it to crack. Some cars may be stock height and ride on rough rodes, so they shake just the same. I changed my Rad myself and it is a beeeach to do but bought a new one for 275.00.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
CL55 UPD Cold Air Boost kit, UPD 3000 stall converter, UPD 77mm SC clutched pulley and beltwrap kit, Custom long tubes, UPD crank pulley , UPD suspension kit, UPD SC pulley, Aux. HE, Trunk tank w/rule 2000 pump, Mezeire pump, UPD 5pc idler set, Aluminum rotor hats.
www.ultimatepd.com
instagram @ultimate_pd
facebook.com/ultimatepd