Speedriven CL65 Anti-surge Valve (BOV) - $250
 

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Speedriven replaces the factory plastic diverter valve found in the V12 biturbo Mercedes with high-quality billet aluminum parts that are machined from aircraft-grade material and are direct, bolt-on replacements for the factory BOVs (which are made of plastic). Once installed, they offer superior durability compared to the factory units, while also serving to give your twin-turbo Mercedes’ engine bay a more aggressive look and that sought-after "turbo sound".

We've also made them significantly easier to install than the factory 3-bolt BOVs by doubling the number of holes- allowing you to assemble your BOVs and align them properly without fighting spring pressure during install. You can read more about why 6 holes are better than 3 here: http://speedriven.wpengine.com/2015/...les-v-6-holes/


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Better sound, better quality, and easier installation for $250. Can't beat that, right? Except, you can- because we're still offering our 10% off summer pricing on all billet parts, making these $225 per set, shipped anywhere in the continental US.

:eek:

great price

Same price since 2014. :y

I nhave a couple quick question. Do we reuse our old springs and diaphragms with these? How easy are these to install on a CL65? I can barely see them from above, never looked to see if there is better access from under the car.

Yes, they're tricky little blighters.

I dropped the front of the front sub-frame on mine to get at them.

Nick

Do you have anything like this for the M157 motors?

I'll try to answer these in order ...

1. no. All new diaphragms and springs included.

2. they're simple to install, but reaching them is tough. We do it with the hood up and the car on the ground, but it's tight. Under the car access can be a bit better, but even there you're removing panels and parts. So- easy, but tough to get to.

I'm copy/pasting my response from another thread, since it's one of those rare moments that I say something perfectly:

i wonder if the 1000 dollar competitor bov install themselves then give a reach around? probably costs 1000 more

There's another major vendor that sells "diverter valve kit" for the M157 motors and they claim it's to get that BOV kind of sound from these cars. Any thoughts on that?

Interesting. My silver V12TT had a failed BOV, and it reacted horribly to snap closing the throttle while on boost. It shook backwards and forwards quite violently, so I got round it by only ever closing the throttle slowly, then it would never surge. Problem is it made me reluctant to floor it, unless I could be sure of holding it there.

Replacing the valves with cheap (!) MB stock valves fixed it entirely of course, and the confidence and enjoyment returned overnight.

The bit that failed was the rubber diaphragm, not the plastic housing. One of them split and had a hole in it, and the other was on the way out, and obviously about to fail.

Attachment 366188

Incidentally, even when you do get access to the valve, it's not trivial. The heads of the nuts are a bit too big for the space available, so you can't use most spanners to undo them. I had to use a thin-wall socket to undo them, and used allen bolts to refit them.

I guess the M275 drive-by-wire wasn't clever enough to get round this.

Nick

nick, great info. on the valve.
thanks:):bow:

:nix:

Here's the thing- it's your car, right? If you want your modern, evolved past the point of BOV, drive-by-wire car to sound like an older style turbo car (remember, the M275 was designed in the late 90s and first went into production almost fifteen years ago) then go for it. I used to want my bicycle to sound like a motorcycle ...

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Most computers designed fifteen years ago (the first M275s were being built in 2001/2002) aren't as clever as modern computers. I think advances over such a long period are to be expected.

I will change my BOV's in the near future. Just deciding which one I will go for. Weistec, Speeddriven or Turbosmart. Turbosmart is offering a waste gate controller as well. Is it needed, I am not sure by now.

I guess its a big advantage to unbolt the the engine on the side you are work at. Its a single 13 mm bolt with a longer head than all the other's. You need to remove the underfloor steel panel , 8 bolts. Be careful, its heavy . You can now lift the engine at the forward facing oilpan and be careful again, its aluminium and can brake. A solid pice of wood, larger than the oilpan will distribute the load. With only one bolt removed the engine will tilt to the opposite side and gives you ample more space to wrench. Same for generator. If you need to replace the generator you have to tilt the V12 to get the lower bolt out.

My ride is a 2009 C216 65AMG, love it !