2008 CL63 Pulsation Damper Changeout for M156 engine
#1
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Thread Starter
2008 CL63 Pulsation Damper Changeout for M156 engine
Been reading up a bit on the entire ABC system and right on schedule (65K miles), the dreaded "grind" sound emanating from the ABC pump. Ordered up a new damper "bomb" from MBOnlineParts and set about the repair. Short story: You only need to loosen up the power steering and ABC reservoirs from the body mounts and wiggle both out of the way to get sufficient room to remove and replace the damper. It's a tight fit, and involves some hand gymnastics, but overall, a fairly simple DIY repair. The old damper took way more than 45 nm of torque to break free using a 17 mm socket with 1/2 drive and an 2' extension. Be careful to keep the socket seated tightly against the "nut" cast into the damper cover else it'll strip.
No more grinding noises in the morning and I can rest easy the pump and ABC valves are no longer getting hydraulically hammered.
Having been down in the bowels of the engine bay, I shudder at what it's going to take to get the ABC pump removed when the time comes. It's tight down there.
No more grinding noises in the morning and I can rest easy the pump and ABC valves are no longer getting hydraulically hammered.
Having been down in the bowels of the engine bay, I shudder at what it's going to take to get the ABC pump removed when the time comes. It's tight down there.
Last edited by Mark out West; 01-21-2018 at 10:04 PM.
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MouTine (10-29-2021)
#2
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@Mark out West
Old thread sorry but if Mark is still active member and read this... You really didn't have to loosen bolts of the ABC pump or anything? I'm about to change new dampener tonight if it's really easy as you wrote. Othervice I have to make more time to do this. '07 CL63. Thanks!
Old thread sorry but if Mark is still active member and read this... You really didn't have to loosen bolts of the ABC pump or anything? I'm about to change new dampener tonight if it's really easy as you wrote. Othervice I have to make more time to do this. '07 CL63. Thanks!
#3
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Thread Starter
@Mark out West
Old thread sorry but if Mark is still active member and read this... You really didn't have to loosen bolts of the ABC pump or anything? I'm about to change new dampener tonight if it's really easy as you wrote. Othervice I have to make more time to do this. '07 CL63. Thanks!
Old thread sorry but if Mark is still active member and read this... You really didn't have to loosen bolts of the ABC pump or anything? I'm about to change new dampener tonight if it's really easy as you wrote. Othervice I have to make more time to do this. '07 CL63. Thanks!
#4
Member
Happily I can report back that this was byfar the most satisfyeing fix!
First of all the ball came out super easy. It wasn't even tight. Secondly... I removed that small wire loom holder from the corner of cylinder head. Held by one torx screw. Than I just loosened ABC reservoir bolts but didn't even took them off. Then there was plenty of room. 30 minutes max.
But the most positive feeling came when drove home. All kind of hydraulic rattles and noises are all gone. No yelling sound at 2500rpm. I have always tought that this sound was part of exhaust note but no. Whole car feels more comfortable. I need do front and rear axle accumulators also. I have Corteco ones waiting at my carage.
Any ways... How a small damn ball can make a man happy. Thanks @Mark out West and have a nice week end.
First of all the ball came out super easy. It wasn't even tight. Secondly... I removed that small wire loom holder from the corner of cylinder head. Held by one torx screw. Than I just loosened ABC reservoir bolts but didn't even took them off. Then there was plenty of room. 30 minutes max.
But the most positive feeling came when drove home. All kind of hydraulic rattles and noises are all gone. No yelling sound at 2500rpm. I have always tought that this sound was part of exhaust note but no. Whole car feels more comfortable. I need do front and rear axle accumulators also. I have Corteco ones waiting at my carage.
Any ways... How a small damn ball can make a man happy. Thanks @Mark out West and have a nice week end.
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#5
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Thread Starter
Great news. Glad everything worked out well.
I just replaced my crankcase breather valve at the back of the intake manifold. Maybe I can post up a DIY set of instructions specific to the W216 given the time.
C'mon guys. Let's start wrenching our CL coupes!
I just replaced my crankcase breather valve at the back of the intake manifold. Maybe I can post up a DIY set of instructions specific to the W216 given the time.
C'mon guys. Let's start wrenching our CL coupes!
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Breather failure occurs at 50-60K miles plus. Usually manifests itself with a check engine light (non-flashing) and a "P" code - it think it's right bank adaptation. You know it's really shot when you shut off the engine and there's a momentary whistle/whine/wheeze coming from the engine bay.
Some folks claim you can replace it without removing the intake manifold, but couldn't imagine getting my hands into that incredibly tight space. I took the opportunity to replace all my injectors while the manifold was off the engine.
Another depressing note - the guts of the manifold are magnesium. AMG coated the visible parts, but there's a lot of uncoated/untreated surface that's rapidly corroding and cracking. I can't see these manifold lasting more that 15-20 years before they develop some serious cracks.
Some folks claim you can replace it without removing the intake manifold, but couldn't imagine getting my hands into that incredibly tight space. I took the opportunity to replace all my injectors while the manifold was off the engine.
Another depressing note - the guts of the manifold are magnesium. AMG coated the visible parts, but there's a lot of uncoated/untreated surface that's rapidly corroding and cracking. I can't see these manifold lasting more that 15-20 years before they develop some serious cracks.
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biker349 (11-07-2021)
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#8
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2013 CL 63, 2002 E 55, 04 Jaguar XJ8, 66 Jaguar XKE
Interesting, thanks for that. I am wondering if the injector change should be a routine (say 50k miles) maintenance. Coils at the same time. I have 35k miles and need to save my pennies for the future.
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biker349 (11-07-2021)
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biker349 (11-07-2021)
#10
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If you are talking about PCV valve it is not easy but doable without removing intakemanifold. Found a topic where a guy just cut the locking plastic bands or what ever they are called and just pulled the connector off. Atleast worked for me.
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biker349 (11-07-2021)
#11
Hello guys. I have a question about damper replacement - the operation can be carry out without pressure lowing with xentry or StarD? ABC is high pressure system and i'm a little bit affraid of remove any parts ot the system..
EDIT: I only want to check if will be able to unscrew the damper with my wrench and it turned out that dumper was totally loose, i used only hand without any effort...Now i am wondering if the ABC system not suffered due to this. ;/
So check out my noise. Do you guys think this is pulsation damper case?
https://streamable.com/pny36y
EDIT: I only want to check if will be able to unscrew the damper with my wrench and it turned out that dumper was totally loose, i used only hand without any effort...Now i am wondering if the ABC system not suffered due to this. ;/
So check out my noise. Do you guys think this is pulsation damper case?
https://streamable.com/pny36y
Last edited by smola; 11-15-2021 at 06:03 PM.
#12
Member
Hey there @smola
Theres no presure when engine off. No worries. Only place where it is possible to have pressure is between strut and valve block and only when vehicle sit on its tyres.
My damper was allso loose as it was like hand tite. If its not leaking its ok, don't over tight it.
According your video I would say it time to change the dampener. I ordered Zabienski one. Works fine.
Theres no presure when engine off. No worries. Only place where it is possible to have pressure is between strut and valve block and only when vehicle sit on its tyres.
My damper was allso loose as it was like hand tite. If its not leaking its ok, don't over tight it.
According your video I would say it time to change the dampener. I ordered Zabienski one. Works fine.
Last edited by MouTine; 11-16-2021 at 06:43 AM.
#14
Member
I think it was listed as new but personally I don't know.
Looks like many distributors say and sell all sort of ABC components as refurbished but they are all new from China. This happened to me when I bought new pair of front struts. I was expecting to have refurbished OEMs, but belhold, there was brand new ones in the box with CMW logo. Returned them right away. I have nothing against china-parts but not with that prize I payd.
Looks like many distributors say and sell all sort of ABC components as refurbished but they are all new from China. This happened to me when I bought new pair of front struts. I was expecting to have refurbished OEMs, but belhold, there was brand new ones in the box with CMW logo. Returned them right away. I have nothing against china-parts but not with that prize I payd.
#16
Member
Nice to hear. All thanks should go to @Mark out West . He pointed out that it is relative easy task to change linepressure dampener in M156 engine.
Smola you should post pics of your CL into picture thread in non-AMG area.
Smola you should post pics of your CL into picture thread in non-AMG area.
#18
Noise in area pump tanden
hello, I have a noise in the tanden suspension pump area (cl550 year 2007), when it heats up, could it be the pulsation damper? Please I need help, can I change it at home? is there a lot of pressure? thanks in advance!
#19
Hi.
No pressure. Very simple work, about 30 minutes. It could be damper but without video/audio it is hard to say. F.ex. if noise is louder when you;re turning the steering wheel it may by something else.
No pressure. Very simple work, about 30 minutes. It could be damper but without video/audio it is hard to say. F.ex. if noise is louder when you;re turning the steering wheel it may by something else.
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M273abc (02-08-2022)
#20
Thank you very much for answering, the noise is always the same, but it only appears in the area of the suspension pump, when it is hot and the car has been started for about 10 minutes. the noise is like a metal shackle.
#21
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